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In my 90 F-150 I-6 5sp 4x4, the check engine light comes on now and then. When I finally caught it on at the house, I ran the KOER test and got these error codes:
44 Thermactor Air System Failure
31 EGR Valve position or exhaust pressure transducer voltage low
Any help here? What is the Thermactor Air System? And would the 31 mean there's an exhaust leak?
The KOEO and Memory had this error:
33 EGR open/erratic or valve position sensor too low
Is this related at all to the 31 error code?
Any help would be greatly appreciated!!
Were any of the vacuum lines worked on or any work done to the engine that may have left vacuum lines disconnected ? The reason I ask is because both the Evr solenoid & Air Management solenoids are located all in the same area of the engine . Check all vacuum lines from the solenoids to the the Air Management components & the Egr valve . Let us know what you find & we can go from there .
I did find that the main vaccuum line going from the reserve canister to the distriubtion block (amplifier in manual) below the EGR was melted through, as well as the two lines returning to the solenoids (bad location I assume). I replaced all three with rubber hoses and rerouted them on top of the intake. Now there is vaccuum at the two solenoids (15-20 in) but there is still none at the EGR. Whether the engine is warm or not, full throttle or not. There is full vaccuum getting to the block below the egr, but none from there to the EGR. The line (when unplugged from both sides) holds vacuum with a pump. Could this block have gone bad?? Or is this normal? How much Vacuum should I see both there and elsewhere?
The engine seems to be running fine, except for that damn check Engine Light. The 44 Code (Thermactor) cleared up (duh) but the 31 Still comes after I cleared the codes.
I'll see if a new EVP Sensor will fix this. The error is a 32 now. I really hate computers! It's only $32.49 from Ford, I dont trust Kragen's when it comes to electronics!
Dont replace anything . The Egr Valve will only function when the vehicle is moving . Clear any codes from the computer . Drive the vehicle until its fully warmed & recheck for codes . If you connected all the vacuum lines correctly you should have solved the problem .
[font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON 31-Oct-00 AT 01:35 PM (EST)[/font][p]>Dont replace anything . The
>Egr Valve will only function
>when the vehicle is moving.
I discovered this, and there was vacuum during the KOER tests. So the EGR Valve Controller seems to be working fine, but a new one was only $28 if I needed it.
>Clear any codes from
>the computer . Drive the
>vehicle until its fully warmed
>& recheck for codes .
I did this and only pulled Code 32 on all three (KOEO, KOER, & Memory)
>If you connected all the
>vacuum lines correctly you should
>have solved the problem .
I did, everything has vacuum. I went ahead and replaced the EVP Sensor, for $32 (Ford) I didn't really think twice. The new one had a nice rubber gasket that the original did not. I put the new one on, checked vacuum, and it held. I then cleared the codes, and warmed the engine. The check enigne light hasn't came back on yet, and all tests pull Code 11, System Pass.
It's funny how good of freinds you can make with the Parts Department at the Ford dealership (especially when you can show up and say I need this, and not even have to tell them what you drive). The guy said that they stock a few of those sensors, it's a pretty commonly replaced part.
I may have to get a new evp sensor for mine, here lately the idle has been staying up around 1200 rpm. Even when the truck is warmed up. I couldn't understand why it is doing this so I took the vacuum line off of the egr valve, and it has since quit. But, it came back again this morning. iguess my computer finally went into fail safe (after 4 days of driving it with the egr vacuum disconnected).
But, I bought the valve and sensor from Autozone, could that have been my undoing? Anybody have a clue.
Or, should I go back to the dealer for all of my sensors, I bought the tps, and map sensors from autozone as well.
The thing with aftermarket parts is that its difficult to know by who or where they are made esp if they come from discount auto part stores . If you have to fiddle with a part or its not the right one when you go to install it then you have to take into consideration your time & effort to do the work . Ford parts may cost a little more , but at least I know the guy selling it to me knows all the ins & outs of the parts he deals with . I know the Ford Parts guy I deal with is a whiz , hes been doing it for many yrs & knows all the right questions to ask when a customer purchases a particular part so they get the right one the first time .
As for the high idle , Its almost gospel to start with the Idle Speed Control valve & or the throttle plates , Clean all the carbon from both to begin with . If the problem still exists then its time for more tests .
I've checked & cleaned the Idle Air Control valve, but haven't cleaned the throtle body (I haven't had time to get to that yet, they are trying to kill me here at work. Messed up schedules/3 people covering 4 shifts, only get 1-2 days off per week plus rotating shifts with 1 day seperation) I will definitely get to that this week, right after I put in the heater core I've had that's still in the box sitting in my floorboard (been there for 2 weeks now).
I think I'm going to have to start getting my parts from ford, This stuff about having 15 different sensors for the same engine is ridiculous. (that's even if they have them in stock!)
I appreciate the help.
Kyle
1988 F-150 Custom to XLT Lariat conversion, 5.0 EFI (formerly 300 I6), 5-speed M5OD, 3.08 rear gears (will be upgraded to 3.55's), Summit headers, Flowmaster muffler W/ dual 3.5" tips 24" long. Caution Customizing in progress, Watch for flying tools & Parts!
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