I have a slight problem, i hope somebody can help me out. Heres the symtoms... The engine runs fine but as soon as i put it in gear it makes a loud clunking noise. It shifts fine, i pulled my view plate and the clutch looks fine throwout bearing looks good, fork etc. I pulled the axels and both are fine splines okay looked into my pumkin and spiders look okay ring gear has a little wear on some but no broken teeth pinion gear looks fine. U-joints look good but never had a problem like this when u-joints went out. Most people i talk to that have had a rear go out broke teeth or something. I jacked it up a spun wheels and watched the gears and i dont know whats going on. Pulled tranny and pulled view plate no chunks or shavings. Fluid looked good and gears and teeth are fine bearings seem solid in the trans. I have a 64 F250 with a 292, T-98 warner 4 speed and a spicer 60 model rear. The gear ratio is 4.88 and the ring gear says dana on it but it looks just like the spicer in the shop manual. Oh it starts to drive but it clanks to the point whre i cant drive it. It wouldnt let me back in reverse. It goes in all the gears fine. Clutch pedal moves fine. I havent pulled the carrier bearings out cause i havent wanted to pull it out of the housing yet. The bearing that the pinion is on looks good. Any feed back would be nice. Thanks Jim, From the evergreen state. Hey i think were having a new record it hasn't rained for three days. Ha Ha

 

Steelie: Try this, it worked for me when I had to ID a clunk. (It turned out to be a rearend problem).
Jack one rear wheel up, block the truck so it won't roll, and put it in gear. Slap the wheel back and forth. You'll have some slop, but not much. Listen for the clunk, and do this in each gear. You may need to jack both rears up. Hopefully, you can generate and find the noise.
Also, check your cab mounting points to make sure it is solid and secure, and check your I-beam bushings, that they are solid.

 

Did you check your engine and transmission mounts? If it's not that, most likely it's in the rear, as already stated.

 

Steve, Good call on the engine and transmission mounts! I totally forgot about that, but would add, now that you have mentioned it, he should check the rear axle bearings and rear axle mounts as well. The rubber in the spring shackles can give out.
Also, here's another way to check:
With both rear wheels off the ground, the engine idling, and IT WELL CHOCKED, put it in 1st gear at idle.
Put a mechanic's stethoscope on the differential and listen for anything louder than a faint whirring noise.
Do the same for the transmission, in all gears.
You can use a screwdriver in lieu of a stethoscope, but a stethoscope works better.
And loud noises are immediately suspect.

 

Thanks John and steve, for the info. I jacked it up with both rears in the air and spun both sides. Tire on one side will go opposite way than the other like it should but sometimes it stop for a second or two and then sometimes kick back in again. Is that part of the anti slip differential. You can hear a slight grind noise when you do this. One question though, is the open block housing that holds your two spider gears where the axels come in at, is that supposed to spin at all while you turning your axels. At a certain point it does this at certain times while i'm spinning the wheels. The whole housing turns. And one last thing can i remove the four bolts that hold the carrier bearings and just pull the ring and spiders out without removing the pinion in the back if i keep the shims to put them back in place. This is a little different then the nine inch ford where you can pull the whole pumkin out together. I will keep you guys informed in what i find, and try your suggestions.

Thanks Jim, I just love these trucks.

 

 

I'm not as familiar with the spicers as the Ford 9", but that catch in the other wheel not spinning sounds like a dying rear cluster to me, antislip or not. I'ld pull the whole thing and take it to a shop, unless you've got access to a rebuild book on the thing.