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Old Aug 26, 2006 | 05:20 PM
  #46  
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dtherren
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Alvin in AZ,


Yes it would have helped to have a meter. That is the one piece of equipment I dont have. Then on the other hand.....some things you just have to do the hard way...............
 
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Old Aug 26, 2006 | 11:11 PM
  #47  
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1975Ford
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dtherren, run the ground wire to the engine block, Right (passenger) side below the spark plug and engine head behind the alternator. Clean around the bolt hole on engine block with a scraper and wire brush for optimal electrical continuity. place a flat washer on bolt prior to installation.
 

Last edited by 1975Ford; Aug 26, 2006 at 11:16 PM.
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Old Aug 27, 2006 | 05:23 AM
  #48  
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mshaud78XLT
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Ground,Ground, and Ground...

Like 75 ford said. For proper grounding of the electrical system, the cable from battery (-) should run to the engine block below #1 cylinder, and behind the alt. There is a threaded boss in the block just for this purpose. Second, a body ground from the engine block bolted to the firewall must be in place also. The alt is also grounded.

Now, I would be leary of some of the battery cables that come from those "chain store" auto parts stores. Cheap pacific rim made junk IMO. Some people make their own out of welding cable. Just remember no ground = no go.
 
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Old Aug 27, 2006 | 08:31 AM
  #49  
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SwOkcOffRoader
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From: okc
Originally Posted by mshaud78XLT
Like 75 ford said. For proper grounding of the electrical system, the cable from battery (-) should run to the engine block below #1 cylinder, and behind the alt. There is a threaded boss in the block just for this purpose.

yes, just like mine...if you look at this pic real close you can see it just below the lower heater hose....

https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...=80122&width=0
 
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Old Aug 27, 2006 | 06:09 PM
  #50  
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Alvin in AZ
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From: Gadsden Purchase
Originally Posted by dtherren
Alvin in AZ, .....some things you just have to do the hard way...............
Oh man. I'm the last guy that has any place complaining at someone else about doing it the hard-way. That's me all over. :/

Alvin in AZ
 
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Old Aug 27, 2006 | 11:05 PM
  #51  
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Vinford
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From: Williams Lake B.C.
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My 78 with a 460 has been hard to start for a year when hot.
I checked all wiring and put in a new battery and a new starter.
Finally found out it was the vacum advance sticking.
Put in a new distribitor and it turns over great.
 
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Old Aug 28, 2006 | 08:29 AM
  #52  
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1975Ford
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Originally Posted by bigbearhunter
mine really acts like it has no gas so not sure about the electrical stuff???????????
always something
Remove coil wire and crank engine, does coil have spark? Put coil wire back on for the fuel system check.

Check for cracked fuel lines, check fuel filter(s).
Remove fuel line a carburator and put fuel line in a gas capture container, crank engine and verify fuel pump is pumping? Caution with gas, very flammable.
 
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Old Jun 8, 2012 | 11:32 PM
  #53  
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big rick washington
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From: edmonds
I have a 1978 f250 4x4 with a 460 and thinking i need a heat shield on my starter.Starter close to pipes and oilpan.It starts up fine cold but after a run restart it turns over slow.everything checks out good so must be the heat.
 
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Old Jun 8, 2012 | 11:37 PM
  #54  
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big rick washington
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From: edmonds
what did a new starter cost?
 
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Old Jun 9, 2012 | 04:28 AM
  #55  
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Asking a question in a 6 year old thread? A stock exhaust 460 shouldn't need a shield.... As for price a quick google search turned up a low of $23.00 and a high of $285.00.

Here's a list from Summit: FORD 7.5L/460 Starters - SummitRacing.com

There's a lot of good suggestions in the original thread. If they don't help your slow cranking problem I would start a new thread so as not to confuse the OP's issue with yours. Welcome to the board! There are a lot of great members here to help as you will find.

.
 
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