Make sure that the fuel lines are not touching the engine, radiator or heater hoses, engine brackets.

Recheck the engine timing.

Next time the engine does not start, pump on the accelerator on carburator and verify if the carb is getting fuel, no fuel = vapor lock or some type of fuel problem.

 

Thanks Guys for the suggestions plenty of options to try so hopefully one of them will solve my issue.

 

How long has this been happening?

If it is vapour locking, I had to take my fuel line off and whrapped the areas (fuel line) where it's the closest to the engine block with tin foil of approx. 1/4" thick. Cheap, straight out of my wife's kitchen and It works like magic for me.

 

But we still don't know which problem it is. It could be one of two VERY different problems. When it acts up, does it seem the starter cranks very slowly - or it cranks fine but won't start?

These are problems that occur when hot, but have different causes. If starter cranks slow when hot, then check battery, cables, connections and starter. If cranks fine but won't start, hold pedal to floor to see if it starts easier. If it does then you have a perculation problem that needs a plastic carb spacer or heatsheild to keep the carb cooler.

Let us know what you find.

Marty

 

Question for the starter, does engine have an oil leak, that is leaking onto the starter?
Does starter look grimey and oily?

Check all your battery cable connection at battery posts, engine block and starter relay. make sure they are cleaned and tight.

 

Hi, new to the forum and I was just reading through posts. Just thought I'd offer a suggestion on a possible solution to your nostart when hot problem. Try changing the distributor cap. I've run ito this before, when hot a faulty cap will expand and lose contact with rotor. Thats my theory anyway. Also I've had a bad ignition coil give me the same problems when hot. Just my .02 cents. Hope this helps.

 

...Welcome to Ford Truck Enthusiasts!

See you on the boards. ….

 

I havent gotten to the bottom of this yet, but I think this may be a timing problem, if............

1. You have had this motor apart, or someone else has, and

2. It cranks fine cold, and

3. It is slow cranking when warm and up to temp, and

4. It is not overheating.....

5. You know that the distributor, rotor, cap and wires are fine and it is firing from the coil.

I did not have this problem with my 302 before I rebuilt it. I do now....

I know my timing gears are aligned right, and I know that my distributor and rotor are by the book.

If.....

I set my timing by ear (and where it cranks the best)
cold, it starts and runs fine. It runs easy, and smooth. I drive it to work and shut it off, it does not want too start until it cools some. It cranks slow for the first few turns before it fires and runs.

If I set the timing where it starts even hot (it will also crank good cold) it runs rather crappy. Like it is choked. It smothers out the sound of the cam like there isnt even one in it.

I am wondering and checking to see if I am off on the distributor one tooth. I timed everything at TDC putting it back together. Where I think the problem rest's is on the distributor being off on tooth on where the rotor points.

If this is the case, my timing is either advanced one notch, or retarded one notch (depending on which way I am off) and not dead on TDC pointing at #1 by the rotor.

I will let you know shortly........

 

I'm haveing a similar problem with my 76. starts fine first time of the day but after I drive to town and shut it off to say go into wallyworld , when I come out it doesn't want to start. I'm thinking it is fuel because once I pump it it starts, but have to be careful not to flood it. I'm thinking I might try the carb spacer and see if that helps. I'm in colorado and tends to happen more so when it is hot out, but like today is overcast and in the low 80's and still did it. Haven't had it for a winter yet so not sure how it will be then.

 

Yeah its a real pain in the butt when you cant drive the truck and know its not going to srrand you somewhere. since I started researching this the two things which most people have suggested to check is the ignition modulule and to tape up the fuel line with thermo tec tape and add a carb spacer.

 

its almost impossible to set the timing on a Ford ear, for every 1/8th of an inch of turn to the dizzy (at the VA) your changing the timing by 2-4 degrees or more....i normally run my 460 at 14* BTDC when i want the extra power, but when it gets hot i gotta turn it back to 12* for it to start smoothly... ive been timing cars for years and i STILL cant time my own truck without a timing light, otherwise i turn it too far making it run crappy.....but, i can time any chebbie by ear (or feel) and make it run great, these Fords take a little more finesse to make them run properly....

as for the original question at hand, it could be anything from bad connections to the battery and frame, to a bad battery, or the starter, or the ignition coil (sorry mil1on, i feel like im always dissagreeing with you, but coils can be faulty when hot) or it could even be a timing issue, like the timing being too far advanced or the vacuum advance module sticking after shutdown....the vacuum advance module sticking will cause those symtoms, and its not really because the engine is hot, its just a coincidence that it takes about 20-30 minutes for the module to go back to place...next time it does it try tapping on the VA module a couple times, then try to start it to see if it helps..

..i actually helped a guy in a walmart parking lot when visiting in Mineral Wells, Texas a couple years ago... his 79 F-150's 460 was turning over real slow..he told me he installed new battery wires, a battery, a solenoid and even a starter in that parking lot trying to get it running....i found a rusty pair of vise grips and tapped the VA module and told him to turn it over...he looked at me like i was crazy, but tried anyways...he almost cried when it fired right up.....he tried to give me money for helping, i just told him to check out FTE and his local Texas chapter...as crazy as it sounds its a true story, i couldnt make it up if i had to....

 

Thanks for the suggestion I will add that to my possibles and let you know the outcome. Pretty busy at the moment but will be trying to get to this in a week or so.

 

(sorry mil1on, i feel like im always dissagreeing with you, but coils can be faulty when hot)

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Oh well

On Coils going bad: I totally agree and mention that fact occasionally... myself

see the 2nd last sentence on post #7.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...1m-tuneup.html


Through the years I have had 3 that faultered when they hot... on a Volvo and one Ford truck.

 

I had a similar problem that only occurred when the engine was hot. it would appear that the battery was dead, but after setting for a while, it would sztart just fine. It turned out that the starter positive cable where it connected to the back of the starter would get hot and expand and touch the headers and create a dead short. a small wire clamp and a quick homemade bracket held the wire ridid to prevent the problem form occuring.
Scott

 

mine really acts like it has no gas so not sure about the electrical stuff???????????
always something