English Wheel Building, On A Budget!
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
From: Nor Cal
English Wheel Building, On A Budget!
This project cost me a total of $230.
I started with many different sized tubing, you can use whatever size you can acquire. Everything is 1/4" to 3/8" wall. I had very rough plans, only knowing some specifics that I wanted. Like a 36" throat, and a certain wheel height for ease of use. Other than that, I jst went with it.
In this first picture, I have placed the upper bar, and have the upper brace cut.
This is roughly where I wanted things...
I took measurements there, and got it standing.
Then braced it so that it could hold it's own weight, and added the upper wheel.
Now, the upper wheel took a bit of creativity. Rather than goign out and spending over $200 on a nice upper wheel, I opted to go the cheaper, yet still nice, route. I bought a 2.125x6.25 bearing (metric), and machined an axle. The hole in the center was just over 1 5/8", so I started with a chunk of 1 3/4" round stock, and made myself an axle.
[If you do not have a lathe, this could be tricky, and a proper upper wheel may be the cheaper route.]
I started with many different sized tubing, you can use whatever size you can acquire. Everything is 1/4" to 3/8" wall. I had very rough plans, only knowing some specifics that I wanted. Like a 36" throat, and a certain wheel height for ease of use. Other than that, I jst went with it.
In this first picture, I have placed the upper bar, and have the upper brace cut.
This is roughly where I wanted things...
I took measurements there, and got it standing.
Then braced it so that it could hold it's own weight, and added the upper wheel.
Now, the upper wheel took a bit of creativity. Rather than goign out and spending over $200 on a nice upper wheel, I opted to go the cheaper, yet still nice, route. I bought a 2.125x6.25 bearing (metric), and machined an axle. The hole in the center was just over 1 5/8", so I started with a chunk of 1 3/4" round stock, and made myself an axle.
[If you do not have a lathe, this could be tricky, and a proper upper wheel may be the cheaper route.]
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
From: Nor Cal
Here is the wheel and axle, along with the mounting bracketry.
The wheel fits snugly over the axle, but I further insure that it will stay in place with a hard tar-like epoxy. It has not yet moved.
This is how it is attatched to the frame [note: there are now nuts on top of those bolts for added security]
The wheel fits snugly over the axle, but I further insure that it will stay in place with a hard tar-like epoxy. It has not yet moved.
This is how it is attatched to the frame [note: there are now nuts on top of those bolts for added security]
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
From: Nor Cal
I got a bit creative on the lower adjuster as well. I used a tow-hitch adapter and 2" tube in the center. I also used 1" Acme thread, and nuts for this.
I welded one nut to the 2" tube [I machined it so that 3/4 of the nut sunk into the tubing, for added strength]. I then threaded the Acme thread through the nut, until it was near the other end of the tube. I then welded the lower nut to the Acme thread, seperate from the nut in the tube. This assembly slid down into the tow-hitch assembly, with one boxed end. I made two 3/4" round bar handles, and welded them to another nut. I also drilled and tapped a hole in this nut, for a set screw. I put this handle on the bottom fo the entire assembly, and set it in place. I was now able to adjust pressure/height of the lower anvil with the handle on the bottom. My design allows the anvil to move up/down, without the handle moving up/down.
I welded one nut to the 2" tube [I machined it so that 3/4 of the nut sunk into the tubing, for added strength]. I then threaded the Acme thread through the nut, until it was near the other end of the tube. I then welded the lower nut to the Acme thread, seperate from the nut in the tube. This assembly slid down into the tow-hitch assembly, with one boxed end. I made two 3/4" round bar handles, and welded them to another nut. I also drilled and tapped a hole in this nut, for a set screw. I put this handle on the bottom fo the entire assembly, and set it in place. I was now able to adjust pressure/height of the lower anvil with the handle on the bottom. My design allows the anvil to move up/down, without the handle moving up/down.
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
From: Nor Cal
And here it is, pretty much completed, minus the casters for moving the whole thing around. The casters are a good idea, as the whole thing weighs over 400 lbs...
Here is the cost list:
Upper bearing - $60 (SKF 5313-2PS)
Three lower anvils from Hoosier Pattern - $140
6" of 1 3/4" rod - $8
3 feet of Acme thread, and 4 nuts - $15
Tow-Hitch/2" tube - $6
That adds up to $229. Now, the tubing for the wheel will probably cost you a good deal of money, if you decide to buy it new. I happened upon the pieces I used at a scrap yard, and got them for free because they were all off-cuts.
I hope this can help someone to make an english wheel. They really are worth the effort and money to build one.
Seth
Here is the cost list:
Upper bearing - $60 (SKF 5313-2PS)
Three lower anvils from Hoosier Pattern - $140
6" of 1 3/4" rod - $8
3 feet of Acme thread, and 4 nuts - $15
Tow-Hitch/2" tube - $6
That adds up to $229. Now, the tubing for the wheel will probably cost you a good deal of money, if you decide to buy it new. I happened upon the pieces I used at a scrap yard, and got them for free because they were all off-cuts.
I hope this can help someone to make an english wheel. They really are worth the effort and money to build one.
Seth
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 13,589
Likes: 2
From: NW burbs of chicago
Trending Topics
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,988
Likes: 14
From: Travelers Rest SC
Being a toolmaker, I could make 'em all day. Now, being able to USE one is a different story! Nice work!
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Most Surprising 2026 Ford Truck Features!
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 Ford Trucks Coming to Mecum Indy 2026
Brett Foote
5 Best / 5 Worst Ford Truck Wheels of All Time
Joe Kucinski
Ford Super Duty: 5 Things Owners LOVE, 5 Things They LOATHE!
Joe Kucinski
Every 2026 Ford Truck Engine RANKED from WORST to FIRST!
Michael S. Palmer
The Best F-150 Deal of Every Trim Level (XL through Raptor)
Joe Kucinski
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
From: Nor Cal
Originally Posted by FLgargoyle
Being a toolmaker, I could make 'em all day. Now, being able to USE one is a different story! Nice work!
Those are a couple of the tanks I made with it.
!["Beemer Nut"'s Avatar](data:image/svg+xml;utf8,<svg xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' viewBox='0 0 50 50'><circle class='avatar-circle-default' fill='%23bc5285' cx='25px' cy='25px' r='20px'></circle><text class='avatar-text-default' x='49%' y='53%' fill='white' text-anchor='middle' alignment-baseline='middle'>"</text></svg>)
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
sammie0126
Excursion - King of SUVs
101
Jun 12, 2017 03:07 PM
Puddy
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
2
Dec 29, 2012 06:54 PM
cowboybootlegger
1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel
53
Jul 17, 2012 12:43 PM
