75F350,
Okay, All fuses are good. With the headlight switch on I checked the wires you mentioned and now power to either. I put the negative lead to the negative side of the battery and the pos. to each wire (After putting all the wiring back to normal of course). I am getting no reading at all. Just to make sure, I placed the Pos. lead on the Pos. side of the battery and I do have 12VDC. FYI, I have replaced the headlamp switch a while back so I would assume it's ok? Anyway, I'll wait to see which way to go from here.
Thanks again

P.S. I don't know if it makes a difference but I checked the RD/BK wire from under the hood at the firewall, I couldn't get to it inside (With out taking a bunch of stuff out) and I will need time to "Re-rig" it so I can go to work today.

I still don't know where to look for the LOM?

 

Starting to narrow it down. This red / black wire should have 12VDC when the light switch is on. That wire provides voltage to the fuses, in turn will feed each of the lights. Assuming that this has voltage, you must now verify that, at the fuse block, do so by removing the fuses, (4, and 8). Turn the headlight switch on, ( be sure the high beams are not on), and check for voltage at the fuse receptacle itself. (this is where the fuse installs / plugs into) Check both sides of this area, with the fuse(s) out, only one side will have 12VDC. Once this is complete you will have verified that the voltage is god through theswitch, dimmer etc. RE-install the fuses, and check for voltage at the LOM, (this has to be where the trouble is). Refer to 87KLT post for pin I.D. for this. Chances are you will have voltage going in, but not out. If that is the case, you can make applicable repairs, i.e replace broken wires / solder joint(s). If by chance you do not detect voltage going into the LOM, it would be safe to assume that you have a broken wire(s) from the fuse block to the LOM. You can also add a "junper" at the LOM to bypass the LOM system, this will not clear ant LOM codes, but will return the lights back to normel opperation. This would return circuit protection back to the system. I am a little concerned that you are currently running the lights straught from the battery, with little or no protection. More than likely will be o.k., but you don't want to do that for too long. You have this problem narrowed down, and are really close to fixin it. Stick in there. BTW, if you wanna call me at (951) 712-5558 during troubleshooting, you are welcome to. Might be faster that way.

 

87XLT: where is the LOm physically located?

 

good info and a picture (as well as some troubleshooting info) at the following site:
http://autorepair.about.com/library/a/1h/bl254h.htm

It's for a 95 but I think it might apply... they also make reference to bypassing the LOM in there to check out the lights.

 

K2JJB: Much thx for the link. Ford did a good job hididng that thing. Patriot is at work, with this info, I am sure he can finish his explorer in the morn.

 

Good question the diagram I have just points-vaguely- to the center/front/interior section of the car.

Seems i've read on another thread that the dash panel just above the center console has to be removed to get at the LOM.

I did'nt look at that link from
K2JJB yet, but it sounds like it might have the location.

Edit, Took a look at K2JJB's link and I'm still not sure where the silly thing is.

Sounds like they are saying that it's behind the dash panel.

 

Sorry for the delay,

I know where the LOM is located and haven't had the time to take to get in there and get at it. (Family Stuff) I had to go out of town so I had to rig my lights for inspection for the time being. I should be moving into my new house in the next couple weeks and will get back to it then, I will keep this board updated as to when it is fixed. Thank you very much for all the help!

In the words of the great Macarthur: I will return