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For my first post,...
I have been trying to solve this problem for some time with my headlights.
A while back, leaving work, I turned on my lights and all was fine but on the way home I noticed that one side of the road was dark (Passenger side). No problem, new bulbs and I should be good to go. But that didn't fix it, then the driver side went out. The whole time the high beams worked fine. I did some reading and decided to replace the headlamp switch, no luck. Took it to a mechanic and was told the Multifunction switch was fine. I am completely lost and could use any and all help.
Thanks in advance for anything that you may provide. Right now I have wires from the battery that I twist together for the low beam and the high beam still work fine.
Typically your symptoms would indicate a bad connection at the headlamp bulb, (common for tjis style socket). Am I clear in understanding that you re-wired the low- beams, and they work now? On which side of the headlamp relay did you tap into the wires to re-energize the low beams? Do you have a meter to verify voltage?
I have been at work all day so I haven't had a chance to reply. Okay, I have a Haynes book on my Explorer and will look into the "Lamps out warning: (Thanks,87 XLT) for the advice. As for what side I re-wired, it's been a while and I don't remember. I do have a meter and when a buddy and I checked the head light connection there was no power to one side of the driver side light. At that point he taped into the other side (Which I now know was a bad idea) and within two days the other was out. At the point I joined the two low beam wires and ran them off the battery and just twist them together at night. It's rigged but it's worked so far. Now I am at a point that I either have to find the problem or drill a hole in my dash and mount an on/off switch to pass inspection. I believe Ford would charge me an arm and a leg to trouble shoot an electrical problem. 75F350, I will figure out what side was re-wired tomorrow. What voltage am I looking for and where?
Thanks for the replies and advice.
P.S.
Back when this first happen, there was a faint smell of burning wire. I was never able to track it down. Also to this day, when I connect the two wires to turn the head lights on, I will get the message "Check headlamp system" from the center consol computer display. It's a Limited Edition so the darn computer tells me everything but how to fix it! ):
You "check headlamp system" message seems to indicate that you do indeed have the LOM module in the vehicle. As 87XLT indicated these things are famous for crapping out (usually bad solder joint in them, which you can repair if you are handy with a soldering iron)... it's where I would look first.
Holy cow, this gets interestng. Good news though, I am an elecrical engineer. (P.E.) Big deal huh? I am willing to help. I can write a detailed test procedure for you to narrow down the problem. post a link with the schematic, and I will take a look. Don't drill the dash a rig a switch. This is a poor solution to your problem. Since you are not getting voltage after the relay, the source is not hot, you have to find out where the relay is getting 12VDC from. Does the headlamp relay energize (click) when you turn the headlamp switch on? If no then the problem is before the relay between the light switch and the relay. If yes, the the problem is either a bad relay (switched leg) or the voltage source is bad.
Patriot, the bottom line on this is that you need to look at a GOOD set of wiring diagrams for you headlamp circuit. The wiring diagrams in your Haynes wont cut it.
I have the official Ford factory wiring diagrams for my 95 Taurus & for a 97 Explorer.
On the Taurus the LOM is wired parallel to the low beam circuit & if the LOM is bad it wont kill voltage to the low beams.
On the 97 Explorer the LOM is wired in series with the low beams and -and as K2JJB sez- bad solder joints on the LOM will kill voltage to the low beams only.
So pull up an online wiring diagram at autozone.com & see how yours is wired.
Even though I have this high tech/state of the art/$49.95 web TV browser, it isnt compatible with the autozone web site, else i'dpull up the wiring diagrams myself.
75F350, do you have a wiring diagram for a 95 Explorer? Does it show a relay for the low beams? Ford does'nt normally use relays in their headlight circuits.
I do not have electrical dwgs. I will look them up. I am curious what Ford is using to cary the amperage load. Can't be just the switch. Has gotta be something between the switch and the light to provide reasonable load protection. I do however agree with the statement from 87 XLT, re: the series connection with the LOM. Will have to look further into it, because there still is a question as to the illumination of one lamp. Would the bad connection (solder joint) at the LOM, be responsible for both lamps going out simultaniously?
Now I have dwgs in front of me. This is simple. You mentioned that one light went out, and then the other failed after you did some custom wiring. This leads me to believe that all is well in the headlight switch as well as the dimmer control. So for your first step, check the most obvious thing, that would be fuse 4, and fuse 8. These are 10Amp fuses and provide circuit protection for the headlamps. Replace if necessary. If the fuses are good, check the red / black wire at the fuse block for 12VDC. This will only provide voltage if the headlamp switch is on. Next verify that 12VDC is present at the dk blue / lt. grn wire. This wire goes straight to the right headlight.( easy way to check, is the headlight will be on, assuming that you put the wiring back to its original state.) next do the same for the wht / lt. grn wire, this goes to the left headlight. The problem has to lie in this wire, or fuse section. This supports the "one light went out first" scenario.
Try that out first. if that does not work, re-post, and we can go into the dimmer, and switch itself. Doubt highly that will be the case. Consider trading it in on a sunny day? lol just messin round.
Good luck.
87XLT: it would appear that the schematics are the same for these years. You are correct that my dwgs did not show the LOM. I have a limited (kinda generic) set of prints. With everything that you have outlined above, this should get "thepatriot76" on the road to an opperational system again. That being said, it would appear the problem might be simply the input (voltage) to the LOM is just not there. Broken wire, bad fuse, or that solder joint just like you mentioned before. Well done.
Good luck patriot76.
Just walked in from work and WOW, information jackpot. I am in need of a good night sleep but I will re-read all of this tomorrow morning and re-post. Wow, thanks for all the posts, what a great board!
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