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Old Jul 13, 2006 | 01:34 PM
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Where to start?

I need some help troubleshooting a problem that just popped up. When I am driving up hill I start loosing power, rpms stay steady, but something is slipping. I thought it might be the clutch because I have abused it lately. It shifts fine. what could this be?
 
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Old Jul 13, 2006 | 01:43 PM
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for most vehicles when climing a hill, the rpms can stay steady and your mph begin to drop.

nothing to worry about.
 

Last edited by seanvicious; Jul 13, 2006 at 02:06 PM.
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Old Jul 13, 2006 | 01:57 PM
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I should have added that this "slipping" just started recently and it has become worse over the last 100 miles. The last trip I took the slipping turned into a bucking and I thought I might not make it home. I am a rookie but I have tools and time to explore this problem. thanks for your input.
 
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Old Jul 13, 2006 | 02:40 PM
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What year truck, and which trans? I does sound a lot like when a friend's 94 dual mass clutch failed.
 
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Old Jul 13, 2006 | 03:04 PM
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Since you got the T19 about the only place were you should get slipping is in the clutch.

Can you smell the clutch burning after you have had the slipping for a while?

Smells like burned brake pads.

I don't think the early 6.9l's had dual mass flywheels so maybe it is just your time to re-do the clutch.

Seb....
 
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Old Jul 13, 2006 | 03:05 PM
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sorry about that! It is an 87 f-250 6.9 4x4 t-19 four speed. I noticed a bunch of oil has spewed of the front of the diferential. I assume this is the problem. Could this cause the power slipping and bucking?
 
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Old Jul 13, 2006 | 03:18 PM
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I don't smell clutch burning during or after the slippage I described, but I have burned a bit of clutch recently doing tree work in the mountains. I assumed it was the clutch, but it shifts smoothly. Woudn't a dying clutch result in hard shifting? Now that I've found oil from the differential spewed everywhere I suspect that is it. How dificult of a fix is a differential swap any special tools, cost ,ect...
 
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Old Jul 13, 2006 | 03:25 PM
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Originally Posted by j.kenny
I don't smell clutch burning during or after the slippage I described, but I have burned a bit of clutch recently doing tree work in the mountains. I assumed it was the clutch, but it shifts smoothly. Woudn't a dying clutch result in hard shifting? Now that I've found oil from the differential spewed everywhere I suspect that is it. How dificult of a fix is a differential swap any special tools, cost ,ect...
If you are handy it would probably be best to pick up an entire rear axle from a wrecker and swap it out.

To redo your existing differential is probably a tranny shop job as you need some special tools to do it and a bit of know-how as well.

A bad differential usually start to make all kinds of grinding noises and give you trouble when you try to turn. A simple check might be to pull the rear cover and look for metal pieces. If all looks ok maybe you just lost the input shaft seal or bearing. I believe you can replace the seal but the bearing requires a complete tear-down and removal of the pinion shaft.

I would say pull the cover and check for metal. If you got metal in the oil go to a wrecker an start looking for a new rear end.
 
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Old Jul 13, 2006 | 04:14 PM
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j.kenny,
Welcome to FTE and the IDI diesel forum.
The 87 with a five speed had a dual mass flywheel, but the ones with a T 19 should have had a solid flywheel. I am thinking you have a slipping clutch, the problem probably only showed up in the higher gears at first. It will get worse.
With a manual transmission the tach and the speedometer should read the same rpm at 50 MPH going down hill as it does at 50 going up a steep hill. If it reads a higher RPM at 50 going up hill then the clutch has to be slipping.
The stock clutch in an 87 is an 11" clutch, with the torque of the engine it does not take much slipping the clutch to toast it.

The oil leak on the rear axle is probably the pinion nut has worked loose and trashed the pinion seal. Block the wheels with the truck in neutral and try to shake the yoke on the rear of the driveshaft. You should not be able to move it at all. If the piece attaced to the axle moves, the pinion nut has loosened.

The only way you could get something like slipping out of the axle is if you have teeth missing on the ring gear. That is not good when that happens.
 
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Old Jul 13, 2006 | 07:34 PM
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I guess I'll go for it. Sounds like the luk clutch is the way to go. I've never done a clutch before but I'm willing to give it a go since I'm not in a hurry. If my differential is shot I'm a little hesitant to get one from the junk yard. Other than $, is there a reason I shouldn't get a new or remanufactured one. thanks for your advice.
 
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Old Jul 13, 2006 | 07:47 PM
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The 10.25" Sterling rear axle is a very tough critter.
I haul big heavy loads on mine, I've had 5 tons of rock on my dump before.
The only problem I have had is the pinion nut working loose in the yoke.

I did grenade it once when a locker exploded, replaced all the bearings and seals, a new ring and pinion. It was around 1000 dollars for parts and labor, but that has been 8 years ago.
 
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Old Jul 14, 2006 | 01:41 PM
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according to my door tag I have a dana over 8500 3.55 does anyone know what model this is? I think its 61-1, but I'm not sure the manual is a little confusing. Is this the 10.25" sterling you mention, Dave? I'm trying to find the lubricant capacity. Also I can't find any info on what kind of lubricant. The manual says fill through the cover filler hole but I don't see it. Is it one of the bolts? any help is appreciated.
 
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Old Jul 14, 2006 | 10:44 PM
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The Dana has a fill plug on the back cover.
The Sterling has a fill plug on the drivers side by the pinion shaft.
Right now I can not remember, but it takes either a 3/8" or 1/2" drive breaker bar or rachet to remove the plug.

I am betting you have a 10.25" Sterling rear axle
I have seen a few Dana rear axles, but I have seen 100 Sterlings to each Dana.
 
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