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Old Sep 25, 2006 | 02:58 PM
  #31  
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bchitwood73
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Ok well I decided to take the long way around like you guys suggested. Pulled the motor yesterday and took the heads and oil pan off and you were right. This motor is in need of new bearings at the least.

The cam bearings are all shot, and I think the mains are also. I took a main cap off just to get an idea of what they looked like and it was totally copper colored which I understand indicates excessive wear. The bearings also had some lines all the way around them which tells me some pice of junk from the oil got in there.

So long story short, I am going to do all the bearings, oil pump, rings, and any oiling mods I can do so this does not happen again. But I do have a few questions that I wasn't able to find via searching.

1: What brand and type bearings do you guys suggest. Clevite 77 P-Series, Kings Alecular, or Mahle?

2: If possible, I would like to do as much of the work myself on this rebuild for cost reasons, and I want the experance (I already have the FE Bible on the way), What am I looking at as far as machine shop work? In order words what should I have them do to prep the block? Hot tank, line bore, and so on? What does this generally cost, I have no idea?

3: To prevent this from happening again with the oil starvation, I am going with the Hi Volume oil pump and the hardened drive, and also some of the basic oiling mods that I have found. What I am confused about is the port "blockage" mods that I hear are the way to go in the lifter valley. Where are these holes?

Sorry for the long post but I need all the help I can get on this project as I have never taken an engine down this far.

Thank you very much
 
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Old Sep 25, 2006 | 03:08 PM
  #32  
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Just a note: A high-volume pump may make oil starvation MORE likely...

Are you looking to get the block bored and get new pistons?

Are you looking to get the crankshaft cut?

Both of these things are important for long-life. Otherwise, it's a crap-shoot as to whether or not the parts are good enough for the long-haul. Too much taper in the cylinders, or one of the crank journals being egg-shaped and you'll be pulling that motor in a few months to a year

Line-bore, not entirely necessary for a daily-driver, especially if the motor was OK before this happened. If it was knocking for a long time, or badly overheated, the line-bore will shift. Get it checked anyway...
 
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Old Sep 25, 2006 | 04:05 PM
  #33  
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bchitwood73
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The cylinders are in great shape from what I can see so far, smooth as glass. As far as the high volume pump, this is why I asked about the flow restriction mods. From what I can tell the reason this happend in the first place was lack of oil on the cam, lifters, and probally crank. The top end shows no signs of wear.

When you say "crankshaft cut?" do you mean having it turned and taking .010 off to ensure the new bearings fit, and seat properly? If so, Yes I will have this done if needed. The main goal here is to get max life out of this rebuild. If I can pickup some power here and there for next to nothing then i will do that too.
 
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Old Sep 25, 2006 | 08:46 PM
  #34  
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If the crank is within specs and can be polished out clean why grind it undersize, it's not a set rule to grind under on every rebuild.

.....=o&o>.....
 
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Old Sep 25, 2006 | 09:13 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Beemer Nut
If the crank is within specs and can be polished out clean why grind it undersize, it's not a set rule to grind under on every rebuild.

.....=o&o>.....
That's a very good point... However:

The bearings also had some lines all the way around them which tells me some pice of junk from the oil got in there.

I could be wrong, but I don't think the crank could get by with a polishing
 
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Old Sep 25, 2006 | 09:41 PM
  #36  
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From: "Islander"
I'll take lines (grooves) in bearings before lines in journals.
Sounds like this motor ate itself up good, time to check small end bushings , resize big end replace with new ARP rod bolts. Cam thrust plate scored up as well dizzy gear bearing support and thrust area?

.....=o&o>.....
 
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Old Sep 26, 2006 | 10:05 AM
  #37  
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bchitwood73
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Yeah, the crank itself does not apear to be damaged, in other words there are no lines, or scoring marks on it where it rides on the main bearing. Keeping in mind that I have only removed one of the main caps, I have no idea what the other 4 look like yet. If I can get away with just a micro polish then I will go that route but if not I guess I will need to have it ground and then do an oversized bearing. I plan to take the rest of the engine down tonight after work.

What do you guys suggest/prefer as far as bearing brand?

Thanks
 
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Old Oct 2, 2006 | 12:14 PM
  #38  
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bchitwood73
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Going to take the block, heads, and pistons to a local machine shop this weekend and have them mic everything and hopefully give me a reasonable quote on doing some work to it. What would be a ballpark fair price to have these components hot tanked, checked, and also have the machine shop install a new set of main bearings, rod bearings, and cam bearings? I have no idea what this type of thing costs.
 
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