Alrighty...i'm sure i sound like a broken record to some, that have/do remember a few titles of mine, cry'n about...howling sound, wind thru a pipe sound...etc, ever sincethe turbo decided to go south on me. I'm to the point that i've convinced its a tranny issue. However, yesterday, i went to look at a c.c. e99, that purdy much, only thing it had goin for it was the body style and the fact wit hit, albeit, being a "cold" engine, it fired right off, with 265k on her, and doing the cap test, had NO pressure nor smoke... Like i said though, that were the ONLY good about it. Anyway, when inspect'n it, the throttle response was AWESOME. Barely tap it, and BAM, rpms shoot up. Coincidentally, its the response of a few buddy of my buddy's too. NOW mine isnt so, mind you,( none of these trucks are chipped either,), mine just seems to "roll" through. I punch it, and boost ,with redline disconnected, can BARELY hit 16psi. And takes a loooong time to get there. Also, the rpms, i could NEVER see 3k, forgettaboutit, in 5th / 6th gear, noway in heck.

So, in conclusion, what possibly, besides the tranny, you guys think, i may have screwed up. I'm at the point, where I HAVE TO, pull vc's, inspect injector oil discharge, remove injector connection, 1 atta time, retorque all bolts down, along with removing all, go ahead and do doughnuts (even though no signs of soot anywhere)....i dunno guys, just want my truck back.. (she used to LIGHT the tires up, bang'n int o2nd, wit h20+ psi, STOCK).

( could a bent pushrod, stuck intake, bad injector, low compression...etc, cause any of this). I'm hit'n the hydraulic store today, i got the parts list to build a diy comp test

 

My first thought would be the IC boots and tubes. Usually the wind tunnel sound is loss of pressure that the turbo is trying to spool up. Although depending on what you were doing when it gave out it could of also sounded like a shotgun going off as a boot let go. Check closely. Those boots can look like they are on but are actually real loose. Check for tears or cracks on all sides. May not be a bad idea to pull them and check them out in hand.

As for throttle response, I would first look at the TPS. There is alot of dirt and dust n stuff that gets drug in and out on the drivers side. Try a cleaning first to see if that helps as well. Pull the sensor and hit with with an electronics cleaner. Let it dry for about 5 minutes then put it back in and give it a try.

 

Appreciate the response, Bob. This happened 2yrs ago, and seems coincidental that when it happened, ALL of this had happened. Prior to blowing up, nothing, notta.. Since then, i have r.r. boots..(yet to put the cac to ic boots yet), ordered wrong size, lol...done the cleaning of TPS, unplugging of MAP, ICP, replaced ICP with new, have not replaced IPR but that might as well be next.

Really need to get ur on a scanner. With the amount of friends i have with these motors, you'd think we can put the $$$ together and get one, but THEY have no problems...

You know, if someone close to Elsinore, i'm willing to drive on over just to have another set of hears and SOTP opinion, you'd be headscratching, trust me, lol...

 

Your system is a bit of a challenge, because it's been modified for WVO. I have to ask... did you change your fuel-making methods or base-oil collection point 2 years ago? How does your truck run on plain ol' diesel? 16 PSI boost is par for a stock truck with veggie burgers, but the slow spool-up sounds like low fuel delivery... possibly HPOP, IPR, or ICP issues. You need a scanner in the most desperate way.

 

Tug, wvo was introduced early last year. This problem arose 4/2011. It does not seem to have gotten any worse, but sure as heck, not improved either. The boost, flat out sucks. I can count the # when needles' moving, thats how SLOW it moves, and when hit'n pass 12-ish, forgettaboutit. Only way i see more then the 16psi, was when towing the grapevine, last month..in which truck performed AWESOME, on wvo , but boost sucks.

When i first got her, and installed the boost gauge, that damn needle would bounce all over the place, then with redline unhooked, holysh^%ba%$s, i let off so it wouldnt set the CEL light...thats how FAST it responded.

Mind you, this new boost # is with redline unhooked. With it hooked up, WILL NOT achieve 11psi, PERIOD

Anyone, in my situation, would you pull the trigger on the AE or get the AeroForce gauge, and with the extra $$$ saved, invest in IPR? I plan on keeping her a LONG TIME, so sensors, regulators..etc eventually need replacing, right?

 

Aha! A clue! Bouncing boost! I've seen that... but you may not like the answer. I lost a seal on my intake plenum and I was very lucky to stumble upon it. Throwing more boost at it just probably ripped more of the RTV... if you have the same issue.



Aeroforce is nice, it's a great way to monitor things. If you just want to keep an eye on something and drive, AE is cumbersome. Can you see the backpressure, boost, and road during a WOT... and remember the trend? Can you monitor ICP, IPR, FIPW, and MFD at the same time? That's one of the benefits of AE... logging the PIDs you need to see, so you just focus on your driving and troubleshoot later. The trucks aren't getting younger, and the diesel rodeos will come more frequently... so I chose AE.

 

Hey Tug, best clip to express gratitude...last 3-seconds.



Ok, along with this topic, i'm now hav'n Tugitis. Going under the VC's AGAIN. I went out wednesday to remove JUST the d/s vc. Considering the fact, that side bang'n away. Upon removal, a visual inspection resulted in nothing. So, layed a level across the injetors, all is good/flat. So, from the photo help from f350-6, i torqued down the bolts. Low and behold, #2 ihdb, was at 3#, YES, 3#... All others at there respected range. 2 of the rocker bolts were bang'n, i'd say, at 16-18#'s, so fixed them. HOWEVER, i did forget to unplug each one, to see if it upset the idling. So now, i'm "strap'n on the chaps" and head'n in again. This time, removing p/s as well, and testing.

1 thing i left out, that i think MUST take note and hopefully results in a "reason" is this....With the d/s vc removed and all bolts re-torqued, i fired up truck, and at idle, inspected oil discharge from injectors. ALL injectors were "flow'n" oil. You noticed the word, flow'n. Thats because it was doing just that, flow'n. Not a "squirt'n" oil discharge. No splashing of oil, fountaining out of the head assy, notta, nuth'n...just an easy flow "thru the park" type discharge. I ask now, does this constitute, to a problem? Nother reason why, p/s and d/s vc's are being removed AGAIN, ...thanks all.

 

Oil out the spout is the main thing. I have new big-nozzle injectors, a T500, and custom tuning... so I won't see stock oil flow like you would.

17-18 inch-pounds on #3 (DS is even-numbered)? Eeewww.... Whichever injector that was, I suggest O-rings and copper washer on it - and so does the book. You could have a damaged copper washer and fuel O-ring. Driving with that over a number of miles is what led to my cup job. At least O-ring kits are cheap and available at the stealership. I made an O-ring removal tool by grinding the handle of a toothbrush to a flat end... to prevent marring anything important.

Tugitis is a precurser to broke-itis. You'd better treat it quick. Take two VC lifts and call me in the morning.

 

hahaha, closest thing i got to a BUCKZOOKA, is holding the wife upside and shaking her, to see what falls from the pockets, because thats about what i have left to spend, right now anyway.

It was 3lbs on the ihdb..(injector hold down bolt) which should be at 10lbs.

Buddy just became MIA on this project, so going in SOLO....

I did 200miles yesterday, so i'll recheck the bolts and see if any, any worked loose. i'll try to re-post later the outcome...

I only found 1 decent "oil discharge" vid to compare to, and if hpop plays a role into discharge factor, then i guess i cant go off of that, if it has anything different then stock in there. If stock, then mines' not "relieving" like it should then, cuz those injectors were squirt'n gooood.

Gonna get parts tomorrow for hpop idling testing, whats a good # psi at idle?

 

Close to 500 when warm, upwards of 700 dead-cold.

 

best sleep i've gotten all week. Under the VC's looked great. grant it, the uvch was a cu^%-hair loose, but nothing that showed up on the ohm testing either. All injectors were "beating", to their own drum, in exact flow manner. Even stopped a few in there tracks with the end result, truck stumbling on its breathing, so that was progress worth noting.

Today, i'll go fishing for diy parts to test hpop at idle. Also, gonna stop at local hardware store to rig up leakdown testing items, to ISOLATE potential areas...IC leak test only, aft IC to heads leaktest only..etc.

Maybe, middle of next week, i'll purchase the ford sealant to redo the plenums, just for the 'because". I gotta get into the valley anywho, to plumb some new crap on wvo related matters. Them plenums, is it possible to run a blade underneath to help with removal, or once bolts are removed its a matter of lifting up? They look to be made of stamped material. Would hate to bend/distort, and then gotta fish for new one, cuz them Clay plenums, sure look purdy.

 

Yeah... you have to blade them off. Here's a preview of what you're in for if you tackle that.

 

I'm not sure how many current miles are on your truck. I have 130,000 on mine and just changed out my IPR because I lost the little needle thingy. One I had the new one installed and let it ideal for about 20 min for the air to get out for the most part I took It for a test drive. Wow what a difference!! Throttle response was much better!! and acceleration. I also noticed my EGT's dropped about 100 degrees also just running down the hwy empty. Just my 2 cents! 1 little needle moving back and forth for how many thousands of miles?

Edit! The truck runs much better but like you I still feel I have a boost or drive leak in the system!! I can hit 30 psi with no problem and it wont move out of its way unless it cold. Then she will run like a STUCK PIG!!

 

Tim, is yours an E99 or late. I have a set of E99 plenums in the garage if you need them. I was going to give all my e99 stuff to Andy but never made it up there. I'll bet that is where your leak is. It could be the intercooler also. It don't take much. If I was better on the computor I'd have an AE for sure. Computer savy I'm not.

Chet

 

Trey's video is great!


I apparently dropped/lost the big o-ring between turbo and spider when I installed the 38R and it took awhile to find THAT leak, because I never looked there...

I would also suspect drive pressure leaks - look for soot on the pipes up at the collectors. The donuts will ALL leak eventually.

Low fuel pressure will also limit boost and giddy-up.

Even the little ScanGauge II is a great tool. It retails for $159 and will display (4 at a time) pretty much all of the parameters that AE or the AF Scangauge. Specifically, this gives you ICP, IPR Duty Cycle and EOT. It will also read/clear DTC's. Let Dave know I sent ya and he'll give you a good price on one. The best wvo and svo vegetable oil conversion | VeggieGarage.com

Another option is the Torque App for Andriod phones. With a cheap bluetooth OBDII dongle and this $5 app, you can theoretically get the same data on your PHONE. I know people using it on 7.3's and they say it works now (it didn't when I tried it last)...