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I have a 92 F-150 5.0L E4OD. I'm trying to do the EECIV self test and I can't find that STI connector near the self-test port. It should be a single-wire rectangular connector that you ground to have the computer output stored trouble codes via the MIL. There is a two wire circular connector that is just capped next to the self-test connector but I can't find any info on it. Can anyone help? Thanks.
On fender, right around the driver side hood hinge. One connector has a single conductor (female spade) and the other right next to it is trapozoid shaped. Normally both have a cover on them, cover attached to the fender.
Fred, Thank you, but I know what and where it is supposed to be, but it is not there. Any other ideas? Any idea what the two wire round connector is? Thanks.
I couldn't tell you what it is unless I saw a picture of the connector and where exactly it is.
You have a 92 F-series, the EEC connectors have to be there, unless they were tucked under the main part of the harness going to the EEC, or they were cut off by a previous owner.
It's possible the connectors were tucked under if you had your EEC replaced at some point, or possibly the fender due to a crash. Sometimes body shops and dealers aren't very good at putting things back exactly as they were originally. But I'm just guessing... they *should* be there for your year. If not, I'm not sure what to tell ya.
Though, I can give you the pin numbers on the EEC and you can run a new connector by snipping one out of the junkyard. I have the color codes in the garage if you want to go that route.
I have a 92 F-150 as well. As pointed out, the STI connector is next to the EEC test plug. Both snap into the plastic cover that is pinned to the fender well next to the hood lift spring/hinge assembly, about 8 inches from the firewall. I know, I just did the tests Monday night. The STI plug, as stated is a single conductor connector, grey in color. I too was curious what the other connector was, but haven't been adventurous enough to unplug it to find out what happens.
Thank you Fred and Old. Just moments before reading the latest reply, I found the plug. What threw me off was it being snapped in the cover with the test connector.
Did KOEO test and got code 33 - egr. Did elec test on sensor while applying vacuum. I heard the egr move but didn't get quite the ohm range I was supposed to. Tried to start the truck after that and now won't start. Started fine earlier. Any thoughts?
I started all this because of stumbling-hesitation-while-cruising complaint.
Hmm, won't start now? Interesting. I've deliberately disconnected my EGR, and driven 250 miles with it that way, with no ill effects, nor any improvement for that matter. I'm chasing a similar issue with the stutter/buck/snort/cough/spit/sneeze under load. I'm homing in on fuel delivery issues, because I know for a fact the ignition is fine, as well as the sensors. My '92 has 135K on it, and still has OE pump on it, and I don't think the fuel pressure regulator has ever been replaced either. I pulled the filter and replaced it a couple days ago, and while improved, it still ain't right. I did notice a lot of gritty crud in the filter. If it's sand, the pump's probably shot. If it's plastic, the pump's probably shot. But, the regulator's a heck of a lot easier to get to, so that's my next target if I see pressure problems. If no pressure problems, I really dread what's next. Time to yank the intake and injectors for a good cleanup. I get 11's across the board (SYSTEM PASS) from the ECU, and had the TFI tested, so don't think I got any sensor problems. Albeit, I disconnected the O2 sensor as well, and drove it a couple miles, but NEVER got a code. Now I wonder how that could be.
Mine has 145K. If you have dual tanks, switch over. Each tank has its own pump. I don't think sand can get in there anyway. There's a water-shedding screen in the tank to prevent that. And the filter would catch anything too.
I searched this subject and found a lot of complaints about this problem.
Oh, earlier, I disconnected the jumpet from the self-test connector to ground while the ignition was still on. I wonder if this could have blown the ECU?
Actually, I don't think it would have destroyed the ECU. The procedure for resetting stored codes in the ECU is to disconnect STI while the ECU is still flashing codes. I.E., the ECU would still be powered up and in Test mode. Was that KOEO, or KOER when you did that? I did it too, during KOER, and all that happened was the engine idled up for a few minutes, and then went back to normal.
I may be wrong here, and just got darn lucky. Perhaps someone more experienced might have some input.
Thanks guys! I think I disturbed something while poking around. May be part of the larger picture. I'm in the process of tracing down the circuits and checks for the ignition.