Components for lifting F350
I ’m comparing prices of 8 to 10 inch lift kits from different companies and I find that the prices vary a lot(some even top $3K plus
). Here is what I need to know, what are the different components involved in lifting a truck? The major component would be leaf springs, shocks, what else? I won’t be changing my gear ratio though.
Also, how did you guys go about lifting your truck? Meaning did you just drive to a local shop and asked the guy to take care of you? Or did you buy the components piece by piece and got it assembled or did you do it yourself
?
My truck: 2000 F350 Lariat LE, 7.3 L, Crew cab, dually, 37K miles, Navigation system, DVD, 6-CD, 1800 watt music system etc...
). Here is what I need to know, what are the different components involved in lifting a truck? The major component would be leaf springs, shocks, what else? I won’t be changing my gear ratio though. Also, how did you guys go about lifting your truck? Meaning did you just drive to a local shop and asked the guy to take care of you? Or did you buy the components piece by piece and got it assembled or did you do it yourself
?My truck: 2000 F350 Lariat LE, 7.3 L, Crew cab, dually, 37K miles, Navigation system, DVD, 6-CD, 1800 watt music system etc...
Last edited by Vijay; Jun 20, 2006 at 03:58 PM.
8-10 inches of lift.... what size tires do you plan to run? I ask because you said you aren't changing your gears out. Will you be running 37" or 40" tires? The size I have now is about max of what I would ever do without swapping gears (35.6 inch tires). I just personally think you would hate your setup if you went with bigger tires and didn't do anything about your gears.
I agree with pocket. If you are going to run larger tires, gearing should at least be on the list. Some of the major differences in lifts is all spring or utilization of blocks. I would think going that high, I would want an all spring lift. Mainly to reduce axle wrap, some have traction bars and blocks that work well also. Going that high you are going to need some relocation brackets as well a new pitman arm as well depending on setup you choose.
i highly recommed Donahoe, not just because i have their kit. their stuff is expensive, but it's the best out there. extremely (!!!!) beefy stuff. i bet if i get in a front end collision, the last thing to break would be the DR hangers.
i started out with a leveling kit, to make it level. i wanted 33" tires, i didnt plan on lifting it. but then i wanted it lifted. so then i added a 4.5" Donahoe Spring hanger kit to my truck. it just dropped down the front springs, with a new 4" drop pitman arm. also a trac-bar drop bracket which is huge. came with rear lift blocks, that i welded to the factory block. i have custom massive 7/8" x19" ubolts for the rear, because they didnt make a stock sized 11/16" bolt long enough. total cost for the lift was about $1400 with the 4 Bilstein 5100 shocks (which look and ride great) and $100 for the u-bolts. the leveling kit was $250, and it now rides and handles better than stock. sits a half-inch over legal, and i havent gotten any attention. had to slow down my speed though.....
almost have enough money for 35" tires and 20" MM951 wheels.
check out the link in my sig for the donahoe stuff.
i started out with a leveling kit, to make it level. i wanted 33" tires, i didnt plan on lifting it. but then i wanted it lifted. so then i added a 4.5" Donahoe Spring hanger kit to my truck. it just dropped down the front springs, with a new 4" drop pitman arm. also a trac-bar drop bracket which is huge. came with rear lift blocks, that i welded to the factory block. i have custom massive 7/8" x19" ubolts for the rear, because they didnt make a stock sized 11/16" bolt long enough. total cost for the lift was about $1400 with the 4 Bilstein 5100 shocks (which look and ride great) and $100 for the u-bolts. the leveling kit was $250, and it now rides and handles better than stock. sits a half-inch over legal, and i havent gotten any attention. had to slow down my speed though.....
almost have enough money for 35" tires and 20" MM951 wheels.
check out the link in my sig for the donahoe stuff.
I have a friend who put 35" tires on PSD and after about a month he ended up changing the gears. He said it was just doggy and went through a lot more gas.
I agree with everybody else, give strong consideration to changing the gearing.
Good luck !!
jrb
02/cc/psd/WW/K&N/exhaust/edge
I agree with everybody else, give strong consideration to changing the gearing.
Good luck !!
jrb
02/cc/psd/WW/K&N/exhaust/edge
Ok, here is what I ‘m aiming at, these two trucks i.e. item # 4648000673 and 4637161444 were on EBay (auction has ended so you might want to use search tool on EBay if the link does not work). These trucks have been lifted probably around 10 inches and I ‘m trying to get the same results. Gears really do not matter because I do not tow or haul much.
What about these leaf springs? These are being sold for $575, looks like a good deal! I can buy the other component peice by peice...
What about these leaf springs? These are being sold for $575, looks like a good deal! I can buy the other component peice by peice...
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Originally Posted by Pocket
8-10 inches of lift.... what size tires do you plan to run? I ask because you said you aren't changing your gears out. Will you be running 37" or 40" tires? The size I have now is about max of what I would ever do without swapping gears (35.6 inch tires). I just personally think you would hate your setup if you went with bigger tires and didn't do anything about your gears.
Last edited by Vijay; Jun 20, 2006 at 09:53 PM.
take our advice, save up a little longer. you WILL need gears. wow, for a 40'' tire, a 4.73 ratio would bring you back to stock. taking in consideration of the rolling mass, a 4.88 would be a good choice. your effective ratio would be 2.93:1
I have a 13" Suspension Lift and am running 40" tires. I have National springs in the front and Deaver's in the back. Its an all spring set up meaning no blocks
. I also have 4:30 gearing. I like this gear set up because I don't tow heavy and like having lower RPM's on the Highway. I could not imagine 40"+ tires and stock gears, it just doesn't make sense, how do you change your tires to be like 10 inches bigger than stock and not need to change your gear ratio any? Just my .02 cents.
. I also have 4:30 gearing. I like this gear set up because I don't tow heavy and like having lower RPM's on the Highway. I could not imagine 40"+ tires and stock gears, it just doesn't make sense, how do you change your tires to be like 10 inches bigger than stock and not need to change your gear ratio any? Just my .02 cents.
Originally Posted by adambomb
I have a 13" Suspension Lift and am running 40" tires. I have National springs in the front and Deaver's in the back. Its an all spring set up meaning no blocks
. I also have 4:30 gearing. I like this gear set up because I don't tow heavy and like having lower RPM's on the Highway. I could not imagine 40"+ tires and stock gears, it just doesn't make sense, how do you change your tires to be like 10 inches bigger than stock and not need to change your gear ratio any? Just my .02 cents.
. I also have 4:30 gearing. I like this gear set up because I don't tow heavy and like having lower RPM's on the Highway. I could not imagine 40"+ tires and stock gears, it just doesn't make sense, how do you change your tires to be like 10 inches bigger than stock and not need to change your gear ratio any? Just my .02 cents.
? I would appreciate if you can you post some pictures(as link)?
Originally Posted by adambomb
I have a 13" Suspension Lift and am running 40" tires. I have National springs in the front and Deaver's in the back. Its an all spring set up meaning no blocks
. I also have 4:30 gearing. I like this gear set up because I don't tow heavy and like having lower RPM's on the Highway. I could not imagine 40"+ tires and stock gears, it just doesn't make sense, how do you change your tires to be like 10 inches bigger than stock and not need to change your gear ratio any? Just my .02 cents.
. I also have 4:30 gearing. I like this gear set up because I don't tow heavy and like having lower RPM's on the Highway. I could not imagine 40"+ tires and stock gears, it just doesn't make sense, how do you change your tires to be like 10 inches bigger than stock and not need to change your gear ratio any? Just my .02 cents.would you post some pics in your gallery
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