Removing Drum From Hub

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Jun 14, 2006 | 08:15 PM

The_Ryan_Lilly

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Removing Drum From Hub

Well I split a brake drum off on the highway. It was a lot of fun! The next ten miles to my house were fun to! Anyway I orderd new front drums, but what is the best way to get the Old drum off of the hub. These are old and they are stuck quite well. My new drums should be comming monday, so I could keep hitting them with PB rust blaster for a few nights, but I would rather leave them on the truck until I replace them because it's parked on the street.

Thanks For any Help,
Ryan

Jun 14, 2006 | 09:52 PM

sandhillmike

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From: Archer, Fla

One thing is to back off the brake adjuster so the shoes don't put a bind on the drum

Jun 14, 2006 | 10:17 PM

idealtrucks

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From: S/W Virginia

Yeah, I'f you've been driving the truck they shouldn't be stuck. There may be a groove in the hub though, and the shoes catch on it.

Jun 14, 2006 | 10:39 PM

The_Ryan_Lilly

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I can pull the drum and hub from the spindle just fine, but I need to remove the drums themselves from the hubs to put the new ones on.

These are fall off type drums, right? I think that they just set in place and the rust has tightened them together.

Then it should be just a matter of pulling, prying, heating the two pieces apart?

I thought about heat, but putting a torch to grease just doesn’t sound fun. If that is what it comes to I can clean it out and do new bearing I guess.

BTW this is the front of a 2wd truck.

Jun 14, 2006 | 11:48 PM

"Beemer Nut"

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From: "Islander"

Are the drums held on by three countersunk screws like a 6,800# GVW 3/4 ton, just remove screws and the drums pull off by hand if not rusted on.
When you pull it apart use a little heat not hot with PB Blaster, 1/2 later bang apart with a brass hammer.

.....=o&o>.....

Jun 14, 2006 | 11:50 PM

Ford_Six

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From: The Big, Oregon

If it's an F-100, I believe those drums do just come off, there may be threaded holes for bolts to push them off also. On an F-250, you have to pull the whole hub since the studs hold the drum to it from the back.

Jun 15, 2006 | 12:23 AM

Fomoko1

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From: Saskatoon, Saskatchewan

The ones I have seen, F100 drums are a snug fit on the hub, rust makes them alittle harder to remove. Most of the time I could get the drum off by setting it on a large block of wood with the hub up and placing a steel plate on the nose of the hub then wacking it with a sledge hammer. Some times it would take afew good strong hits but it would come apart. In an extreme case I had to knock the wheels studs through the hub before it would come off.

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Jun 15, 2006 | 01:09 PM

The_Ryan_Lilly

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Should just be able to smack them off. Thought so. Thanks a lot, and I check for threades holes to run bolts into like Ford-Six said. Sounds like a couple wooden boards and a hammer Like Fomoko did, might be a little horder on one because the entire race of the drum cracked off, so just the flat face is left. I shuld be able to do it though, with a little work.

Thanks for the help.

BTW Anyone looking for these drums, check out Advance autos website. The drums were about $30 each (hope they are the right ones, Ill find out monday) Every other part store they were $70-$100 each if they even had them at all. Advance had free ground shipping too!

Jun 15, 2006 | 10:48 PM

#10

Kongslibakken

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From: ND

When I pulled the drums off of my f-100 the sledge the heat

and some fine tuned words didn't work I ended up using a wheel puller the drum was rusted on so well I bent the drum getting it off. Oh by the way when it decides to come off it comes off quick. Good luck when the stubborn old girl doesn't want to give up her shoes. You can get them.

Jun 18, 2006 | 01:10 AM

#11

johnnydmetal

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Joined: Jan 2005

Posts: 123

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From: Mine Hill NJ

I bought my 68 F100 2wd in 96 and had her on the road till my wife and I got the house in 2001. In that whole time I was never able to get the rear drums off to change the shoes. The fronts worked fine but the Ebrake quit that last year. I had barrowed a puller from a friend at one point and broke a huge chunk off the back side of the drum but she didn't budge. Last year I started to really resurrect the old girl and started by having the engine machined the way I wanted. Stroked 360 with a 390 crank/pistons and 428 rods. I also had the engine balanced which is something most guys neglect to do but I wanted to do this thing right. I pulled the rear axle out in February and welded a pair of Jack stands to a beat old roll around toolbox I keep the junk tools in and used this as my work platform. the first thing to work out was the drums. I beat on them I tried a puller and I even tried to punch the old studs out with an air hammer.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /><o:p></o:p>

No luck. <o:p></o:p>

I took a break and thought <o:p></o:p>

Ok I'm doing away with the drums and converting to all disc... so..What the heck... its not in the truck.. its going to be rebuilt so nothings gonna burn that cant be cleaned up... and I went over to the Oxyacetylene and hooked up the rosebud. <o:p></o:p>

I placed the rosebud between two of the studs and let the drum heat to a glow. Nothing burned but the drum. It actually went PINGGG when it let go and with the slightest of tap from a hammer the stupid thing dropped to the floor. the rust had created a collar on the center and cinched the studs too. <o:p></o:p>

By the way I have aluminum Slots and the large Eldorado calipers require a rim at least 16". Mine are 15"s and I have two full sets so I’m not gonna go spend a bunch of money on rims. I am going with a pair of the smaller Eldorado calipers which actually came with the Ebrake hardware and are loaded. I didn’t have to modify the 9" rears axle face diameter either. The guys at the Advanced Auto Parts down the road were so amazed that this could be done they let me rifle through the stock to find a suitable set of rotors with the corect inside diameter. I found the 95 Mercury Grand Marquis Limo rear discs fit the 7" axle face exactly which makes redrilling them a snap. They are single plane, not a fluted double plate like the 11" front disks I had gotten, drilled and mounted on the axle. This was before realizing the rims wouldn’t fit with the calipers installed. But I ordered the two small GM caliper plates form AA Manufacturing for 13 bucks and the limo discs for 35 for the pair so it was a cheap fix. Down the road I might buy some 16" rims and find the Ebrake hardware for the large calipers but for now the conversion will be complete. The front clip I am using came from a 78 f150 2wd and only cost 100 bucks at the graveyard.<o:p></o:p>

<o:p></o:p>

Last edited by johnnydmetal; Jun 18, 2006 at 01:13 AM.