Hey folks newbie poster here, have a nice '69 F100 that I'm needing some help with - seems that inspite of a spraying WD-40 on the studs and hub, turning the star wheel adjuster all the way in, that the drum will not come off. We've tried huffing, puffing, using screwdrivers, profanity, nothing is working.

The drum doesn't seem to even close to getting over the pads - we can wiggle them some, but that's it - it seems the pads are catching on a sever ridge on the drums.

We thought about pulling the drum/backing/spindle assy off entirely to see if that would gain us any advantage. Also considered dynamite.

Any advice on how to get these drums off would be greatly appreciated.

We'll accept sympathy at this point as well

 

try:

1. undo the parking break
2. hit the studs with a hammer and block
3. hit the drum with hammer and block
4. maybe the parking brake is too tight.

mine rusted shut under the lugs. Hitting the studs loostened the seal

 

problem is on the front drums, not the rears (no parking brake on the fronts).

thanks for the input. will take a whack at the studs.

 

You may have to rent a large puller and use a 3 lb mallet...

 

YIKES! A large puller?

Help me out, I'm clueless, what's a "large puller"?
I have a 5lb mallet.

thanks for the input!

 

Keith, I do believe that brake drum pullers exist, and could be rented by a local equipment rental place. If all else fails, check that out. I think that is what glindley is refering too.

 

Try removing the dust cap and taking the spindle nut off. You should be able to get the drum off that way.

 

You have to take the entire hub assembly off because it's pressed together. The only thing that keeps the whole shebang connected to the truck is the spindle nut.



68 F-100 Short bed 2wd
302 C4 9" w/3.50 gears
Soon to be sportin' power discs and steering

 

I had this same problem on my '64, My story will follow the info.

All you have to do is take the dust cap in the center of the drum off, on my '64 there is a cotter pin, then you just take the nut off. There will be a washer, then your outer wheel bearings. You'll want to have something clean to catch them with, and while you're in there you might as well inspect the bearings for wear, and pack them. When you're ready to put it all back together, you'll need to have some new cotter pins. Also, wipe everything out with a clean, lint free towel, inspect the spindle surface for irregularities, and put some grease inside the dust cap. Make sure you use clean grease! You will want to get the spindle nut tightened down to a specific torque, i'm not sure what that is, but you want the wheel to turn freely, but with no side to side play.

When I tried to get mine off, I beat on the lug posts, I beat on the drum, I heated it, I pried it. Then, my dad's friend came over, who had some experience with front drums, and said "Well you're never going to get it off with the spindle nut still on!" I just looked at him blankly. He showed me how to do it, and I've done it at least 25 times since then.

Hope i've helped, sorry for the length of the post;
-Andrew



If It ain't broke, you're not tryin'!

 

folks, thanks! I greatly appreciate the input! Knowledge is ignorance when working on older buggies (or so it seems). Never seen a drum attached to the hub before. Popped off the spindle nut and the whole shebang came off in a NY minute. As it turns out, all 4 drums are out of spec (too thin) - removing the hub off the front drums was "interesting". Me, acetylene, a 12 ton press and a 5lb mallet finally got it all apart.

FWIW, we're replacing everything in the brake system except the rigid lines and typically "renewable" parts (springs/clips/etc). Replacing Master Cylinder, all 3 flex lines, all 4 wheel cylinders, all 4 drums, all new shoes. We took everything apart, ran denatured alcohol through it all till it ran clear, blew air through the lines, wire wheeled all parts, lubed all the right stuff up. Best we could tell, only the left front drum was grabbing before (maybe it was how the car wanted to make left turns with the application of the middle pedal?). The right front had enough brake fluid in it to choke a mule - everything was soaked.


Hopefully, it should stop a whole lot better.

 

Hey Keith, since you are going to do an all out rebuild, why not grab a set of 74 - 79 I-beams and put power discs on the front of your 69. All will bolt up. I have 76 I-beams under my 66.

Get some real stopping power.

John
jowilker

66 F100s
In the still cool hours of the night, you can hear chevys rusting away.

 

why is it that EVERY thread I peek into has a post by jowilker going a little something like this:

While you're changing your brake pads, why not go the extra fifteen miles and change the whole damn axle out?

Greg

 

>why is it that EVERY thread
>I peek into has a
>post by jowilker going a
>little something like this:
>
>While you're changing your brake pads,
>why not go the extra
>fifteen miles and change the
>whole damn axle out?
>
>Greg

Now Greg, while I suspect John has a macro key for "Get a donor truck and harvest the I-beams" this really IS good advice.

The guy isn't just "changing brake pads", it sounds like he's having to buy just about everything down to the bare spindles.

I just wish it were possible on my '65 (the F-350 didn't get twin I beam until '67).

 

I think Jowiler's advice is good , The man has had lot of experience,as it sounds , and as long as ive come to this board i have never seen him steer someone wrong.So my advice is JOHN keep up the good work Buddy ive learned alot from your POST
Trouble

 

probably right, I was just having a bad night and needed to vent

Greg
67 F100 CS 390 cruise-o