engine swap to do list?
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engine swap to do list?
So I have a cherry 76 F100 with a blown 360 in it, and I am trying to find another 360 for it. In the meantime, I will be pulling the old one out and prepping it. Anybody have a quick n' dirty list of what to do? I assume:
-drain oil, trans fluid and antifreeze
-remove radiator & supports
-take all the other stuff (!) off.
That's about all I know. Or should I get a Chilton, Haynes or eBay CD with all the diagrams? I searched here but couldn't find it all. Thanks from a rookie!
Also, the 360 I found has unknown mileage, but compression tested at 115 across the board and comes w/ carb and other stuff for $400. Would you buy it? (the body was $300)
-drain oil, trans fluid and antifreeze
-remove radiator & supports
-take all the other stuff (!) off.
That's about all I know. Or should I get a Chilton, Haynes or eBay CD with all the diagrams? I searched here but couldn't find it all. Thanks from a rookie!
Also, the 360 I found has unknown mileage, but compression tested at 115 across the board and comes w/ carb and other stuff for $400. Would you buy it? (the body was $300)
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,600
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From: Iowa
If it was me, I'd be looking for a similar year 390. Direct swap in, more power and torque.
Anyway, do remove the radiator. When that engine comes forward, it's no fun at all to have the crank nose pop a hole in it. Support the transmission somehow. You dont need to drain the transmission fluid, but you should plug the lines going to the cooler in the radiator so the fluid doesnt drip out there. Dont forget the flexplate or flywheel bolts (duh)! Other than that, disconnect everything connected to the engine that is also connected to the rest of the truck in any way, and yank that sucker.
I also find that it helps to put bolts and fasteners back where they go, instead of throwing them all in a bucket. This way you know exactly where they are when you need to put it back together.
Anyway, do remove the radiator. When that engine comes forward, it's no fun at all to have the crank nose pop a hole in it. Support the transmission somehow. You dont need to drain the transmission fluid, but you should plug the lines going to the cooler in the radiator so the fluid doesnt drip out there. Dont forget the flexplate or flywheel bolts (duh)! Other than that, disconnect everything connected to the engine that is also connected to the rest of the truck in any way, and yank that sucker.
I also find that it helps to put bolts and fasteners back where they go, instead of throwing them all in a bucket. This way you know exactly where they are when you need to put it back together.
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 2,838
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From: SD
It's easier if it's clean. I like to use degreaser and a power washer to clean under the hood. Then while the motor is out, clean and paint the engine bay. Ziploc bags is a good way to keep organized. Label each one with where the bolts came from.
Marty
Marty
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yeah, I'd prefer a 390, but I want to get it going and the only thing I've found is that 360.
I assume I'm taking the hood off, yeah?
Marty, is there anything under there that can't get wet?
And what do you guys think about buying an engine you've never heard run?
I assume I'm taking the hood off, yeah?
Marty, is there anything under there that can't get wet?
And what do you guys think about buying an engine you've never heard run?
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,600
Likes: 4
From: Iowa
Yeah, take the hood off. You'll want to mark where the supports are now so you can positon it back where it was when you're done.
I would avoid an engine you've never heard run. You dont know if it had any oil pressure, if a rod bearing was gone and knocking, if a couple oil rings are stuck and leaking oil, or the condition of the valve guides. All you know is that it still had compression. At the very least if you're not planning on a rebuild, start the motor and let it get get warm.
I would avoid an engine you've never heard run. You dont know if it had any oil pressure, if a rod bearing was gone and knocking, if a couple oil rings are stuck and leaking oil, or the condition of the valve guides. All you know is that it still had compression. At the very least if you're not planning on a rebuild, start the motor and let it get get warm.
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