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damn well im reallly fed up with this....i dont have much patience but im really trying...ok i went out for a drive to pick up my fiance from work bout 8 miles away....almost to her job i stall out in the turn lane why? because ya have to have the pedal held just right....a centimeter because any more than that? forget it...it dies...pops out the carb...so i sat there and tried to start it for what seemed 4ever...bout 4-5 mins..then took off and picked her up....then i could not get it started again....finally i started it and took off...and i got to her house and turned it off.....she got what she needed...bout 15 mins....then i went back out and lo and behold could not start it....took me all of 15 mins more to start it....then i left....on our way home i was drivin and at certain stops i would stall out......and had to sit there and try to start it...well almost home i stalled slowing down to stops...but just threw it back in gear and started it while rollin 3 more times till i made it home......and all i wanna do is go to the carshow 2 nite jesus....
Give the engine a compression test. and check the condition of all plugs, jotting down each cylinder and plug information on paper.
With the engine running, Pull out one spark plug wire at one time on the distributor cap where that one spark plug is not getting spark and rev the engine. Continue this process untill the backfiring of carb quits (backfire through carb). When you have isolated the cylinder creating the backfire. Follow the spark plug wire to the cylinder and remove the valve cover on side of the cylinder creating the backfire, and check and verify if the rocker arms for this cylinder is moving up and down with engine running.
If rocker arms are rocking like the adjacent pushrods then check for a bent pushrod, this will also create spitting of the carb. Check for a bent pushrod by removing the pushrods for this cylinder.
I agree with everyone else. I think you have incorrect float height and incorrect timing. It's also possible your vacuum advance is malfunctioning or you have a vacuum leak.
People are giving some good tests for you to try but you don't seem to be following through with any of them. You are saying your timing isn't an issue because it's "perfect" and when asked how you cleaned out your carburetor, you said it's "rebuilt." If everything was perfect like you were saying, you wouldn't have a problem. Words like "perfect" are too subjective. You need to try the suggestions that the kind folks here are giving you...that's why this forum is here.
The 351m/400 were designed by Ford to run the vacuum advance off the manifold vacuum, they are the happiest there. Set your timing with the vacuum line disconnected and plugged to 8-10ºBTDC. Reconnect the line, and set the idle. Your timing will be in the 18-20º range at idle with the vac advance hooked up.
This was done for economy, and does make a noticable improvement in fuel mileage. For some reason, these engines just aren't happy running the advance off the ported vacuum.
well i figured the carb out and its runnin alright but i need a new one...im guzzlin gas though even worse then my 86 4 barrel carb automatic bronco....doesnt make any sense just doesnt make ne
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