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1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel  

Fuel leak

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Old May 27, 2006 | 08:23 PM
  #16  
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plowhand
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You need to pick up two new banjo bolt washers from Ford or International, (Ford part # F4TZ-9A375-A, International part # 1820650C1) You should also replace all of your hoses to the fuel pump and fuel filter while you are in there. The hoses you will need are 1 - F4TZ-9324-AA; 1 - F4TZ-9324-BA; 1 - F4TZ-9324-CA; 2 - F4TZ-9324-DA (these are all Ford #)
 
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Old May 28, 2006 | 01:45 AM
  #17  
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1997F-350
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From: SHELTON, WA
if i had to do mine over again i think i would leave the banjo washers stuck to each side of the fitting. i had a horrible time getting those things to stay in place while trying to screw in the bolt with a hand squished in between the pedistal. moral of the story if they stay stuck on and arent chewed up i would leave em and not replace. my .02
 
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Old May 28, 2006 | 10:17 AM
  #18  
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plowhand
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Originally Posted by 1997F-350
if i had to do mine over again i think i would leave the banjo washers stuck to each side of the fitting. i had a horrible time getting those things to stay in place while trying to screw in the bolt with a hand squished in between the pedistal. moral of the story if they stay stuck on and arent chewed up i would leave em and not replace. my .02
A trick to the banjo washers: take a 1-1/4" socket, put a nut or some spacer inside of it to keep the banjo bolt from going in past the bolt head, have the fuel pump setting in place with the two bolts started but loose, put one washer on the banjo bolt with it in the socket, put the socket with banjo bolt through the turbo pedistal base, hold the other banjo bolt in a pair of long needle nose pliers. Now the hard part=reaching under the turbo start the banjo bolt through the fitting and stop it with two threads showing out the front side (a short extentions on the socket helps), with the needle nose pliers place the other washer over the bolt and then push bolt through the fitting and start threading in the banjo bolt. Once it is started, TIGHTEN DOWN THE FUEL PUMP BOLTS BEFORE TIGHTENING THE BANJO BOLT.
 
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Old May 30, 2006 | 06:23 AM
  #19  
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utahcrew
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From: Northern Utah
my fuel pump is leaking to and my chillton book say'e to remove the turbo and loosen the fuel filter and move it forward. Do I really need to do all that? It sounds like you guys haven't. What is the thing that can fall off when removing the old pump? (the tapet)? and why woult it fall off? sorry for being so stupid.
 
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Old May 30, 2006 | 01:53 PM
  #20  
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plowhand
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If you have a Fed. truck you do not have to remove the turbo. On a Cali. truck you have to remove the turbo. Two bolts and 4 or 5 fuel lines and a couple of electircal connectors and the fuel filter is out. You remove the filter to give yourself more room to work on the pump/banjo bolt and to clean the filter housing and inspect it for cracks. You have to remove most of the fuel lines anyway to remove the pump.


The tappet goes into the bottom of the fuel pump and drives the pump off of a cam lobe. If you do not remove "LIFT" the pump "STRAIGHT UP" you can hit the tappet on the side of the opening as you pull the pump out and knock it out of the pump and into the engine. To help solve this problem, once the fuel filter housing is removed, the banjo bolt removed, all fuel lines removed and the fuel pump bolts removed, use a socket and pull handle on the front crank nut to turn the crank, "DO NOT USE THE STARTER". (This work best with two people but can be done by yourself). Watch the fuel pump and stop the engine when the pump has lifted off of the base. This has the cam lobe at the top, making pump removal easier by shorting the distance the pump tappet is inside the engine. Before installing the new pump rotate the engine to lower the cam lobe so you do not have to put as much down pressure on the pump body.
Hope this answers your questions.
 
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Old May 31, 2006 | 06:01 AM
  #21  
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utahcrew
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From: Northern Utah
Plowhand thanks for the help. It was great info. I was going to do it myself but I have been working so much and need the rig for saterday that time is against me, so it's off to the mechanic (shudder shudder). But I will remember this for the future. All you guys are so much help and have saved me so much time, money you would not believe it. Thanks.
 
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Old May 31, 2006 | 01:35 PM
  #22  
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the weez
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Thanks for all the info and advice. Pulled my pump yesterday and found it leaking from the weep hole. Thanks to Plowhand for the part numbers, I replaced it with a pump I found at NAPA for $111. Ford wanted almost $180 for the same pump. Hopefully this fix will also help my fuel ecomomy a bit as I will no longer be blowing fuel all over the top of my newly steamcleaned block
 
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Old May 31, 2006 | 07:03 PM
  #23  
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plowhand
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From: Southwest Georgia
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Glad that you got it fixed. No so bad of a job after all, was it. Everytime you can work on your truck yourself, it gives you more confidence in yourself and your truck. Now you can help someone else when they need it.
 
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