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guys:
I need some help here. I swapped in a new mallory dual point distributor in my 71 f250 4x4 w/390. If I let it sit for any length of time (say a month) and then i go to drive it, it will start to misfire. When i swap in a new condenser, it runs like a charm. The problem is that this distributor seems to have an appetite for condensers but NOT points; strange if you ask me. Im running a stock coil with NO ballast resistor. Am I overlooking something simple here?
no ballast resistor? why not? are you running a correct coil for that? if you are not running a coil for points ign without ballast resistor (they are an oddity for sure) then you are cooking the condensor. the ballast resistor is there for a reason and unless you have a race car (and since you are running a dual point i know you don't) there is no even remotely good reason to eliminate the ballast resistor. hawkrod
You need a ballast resistor. Coils are meant to operate at 6 to 7 volts. Mopar used a resistor in the engine compartment that would work. The condensor is a tough little device; I just can not see them failing that often. Does your Mallory have a vacuum advance? You kill gas milage without it. This is interesting, will have to give it some thought.
On these '71's, Ford ran a resistor wire from the firewall to the coil. I'm sure it was done on other models also but I'm speaking about the '71 since that's what I drive. Check it out for resistance- if it hasn't already been replaced with standard wire.
Joe, how does your resistor wire run under the hood and how does the starter bypass hook into it? My ’71 wiring diagrams show it to be in the cab under the dash.
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 10-Jul-02 AT 12:25 PM (EST)]My resistor wire started at the "trailer"-looking connector at the fire wall (under the hood) and went straight to the coil. That's just how it was when I bought it. I forget why I replaced it, shorted to intake or something like that, but I did and added a ballast resistor.
I'm not sure how the starter bypass hooks to it. It is hooked up at the starter solenoid, but I couldn't tell you where it ends up. Now you opened another can of worms for me!
Thanks for the responses. Yes, I am running my dual point with the vacuum advance. As far as the resistor, My truck has it--its in the wiring harness under the dash. It is a pink wire that says 'resistor' on it. This same wire gets hot when current runs through it--is this normal? Anyway, I have the dist. apart and i was looking at the points--they are uniformly grey on both sets so i think that they are ok. I know that if i replace the condenser, it will run. But before i jump right in and buy a $8 condenser from the speed shop, I have to know why this thing is EATING them in the first place! LOL
regards
Ben, it all depends what you consider hot. The wire does get pretty warm, with a stock ignition system I calculated that it dissipates around 25 watts.
Try this quick test. Take a jumper wire and ground the negative side of the coil. Now turn the ignition switch to “run” and measure what the voltage is on the positive side of the coil.