I saw how a Chevy distributor can be cut down in a lathe to fit the flathead and I want to give it a shot. I know I can get one ready to run from a couple vendors for not too much money but, this is part of the fun.

I don't like the look of the chev unit but the old dual point units have Ford style caps and are dirt cheap at the swap meets. I want to stay points for a while because I am still 6V and even when I eventually go 12V, I will still have a generator and mechanical regulator. I'm told these old regulators are tough on modules. Not sure if true.

I can eventually convert it to a magnetic trigger if I decide to go that route.

I read a lot of bad comments on the newer Mallory distributors. I see the really old types but, they are difficult to find parts for and are not cheap. I was looking at the ones from the 60's and 70's. Are they any good?

I also see plenty of Accel units. Are they any better? The Accel's have adjustable vacuum advances that may be nice for tuning.

Depending on what I find I may just go with a mechanical advance.

Also, I hear of converting MOPAR distributors but, I don't know which ones. Most don't look long enough. Anybody know which MOPAR or of any other conversion candidates?

 

I have pics of the MoPar conversion (below). I liked it because it was very simple and the components were widely available and cheap. That was 10 yrs ago. Now the parts are not so widely available, and by all reports, the chi-com repro modules and pickups are junk. There is much better support for the GM points-style distributors.

I would for sure get an old GM window-style points distributor and mod it to fit. Which style timing cover is on your engine, the one with a shaft support below the timing gear, or the one without? I saved the dimensions below from a thread somewhere else, can't guarantee it's correct.

New Mallory's are made by MSD, they were bought out. I run the MSD Ready-to-Run and it has been flawless, but I think they are 12v only.





I believe this is for a GM distributor?







MoPar conversion





Dodge 318 distributor modified for flathead

 

I think I have the iron cover. Stock 52. I saw pics on line of the aluminum VS iron. It seemed the aluminum ones had the lower support.

When I cleaned up my stock distributor, I think it had the gear at the very end of the shaft. I'll have to double check.

I'm in no hurry on this. I just like to know my options in case I find a deal. Always planning ahead.

So 318 or any MOPAR? You blocked vacuum advance? I don't know them at all. Small and big chev at least the same.

 

Vacuum advance is great for economy, but with either the GM or an MSD, you need to get an adjustable vac can (Accel or Mr Gasket) so you can tune it.

The timing covers with lower support are all aluminum, but not all aluminum have the lower support. I am running the "B" cover.

Not sure which MoPars, but they all need a lot more work than the GMs.

Is this the picture of timing covers you saw?

 

Ross, I don't know which cover I have for sure. I'll have to go see if a magnet sticks. My stock distributor is definitely iron and looks like the one on the left in your pic.

I'll pull my distributor and measure it before I chuck anything in the lathe. My engine will be close to stock but, I really would like to be able to dial the ignition in.

I found some EAB heads to replace my 8RT's. Probably some port and bowl work, maybe headers or dual exhaust if it is worth it on a street driven truck. Mild if not stock cam, single carb. Got some Flathead learnin to do. Reading Flathead Facts and any other book I can before jumping into a build.

Better distributor is supposed to be a huge improvement over stock no matter what so hence the questions.

Thanks for the info!

 

So what about the Old Accel VS the Old Mallory dual points? Either better than the other?

 

FYI, Pertronix does make a 6 volt positive ground electronic ignition. I had one in my truck two years ago thinking it would solve my problems. But my distributor was shot. My brother in law put in a good used one I bought from Pinto Plumber, Dennis, and he put points in. Its been starting and running great since. And if we ever get hit with an EMP attack my truck will still run, until I run out of gas as gas pumps run o electricity! I'll get a long hose and siphon gas out from the under ground tanks.... perhaps easier to siphon gas from the 1000's of stranded cars!

Just curious, why do you want to convert to 12 volt?

 

I could never figure out how Mallory got such a favorable reputation. The old ones didn't have vac advance OR mech advance, fine for racing but crap for the street. If one set of points is troublesome, how is two sets better?!?!

Not sure what the "old Accel" unit is?

 

Interesting info guys


Bobby

 

The "OLD" Accel and Mallory I'm referring to is maybe 60's vintage. U.S.A. made compared to the later allegedly Chinese made ones. Not the Mallory's made in the 50's with $200 Bakelite two piece caps.

I have read many comments on line (and you know how that can be) about junk points, condensers, castings, etc.

The older Mallory and Accel I'm seeing a lot of both have mechanical advance and some have vacuum advance as well. The Mallory housing looks a lot thicker, otherwise very similar.

I was hoping someone had some valid input on one VS the other in quality and tune up parts availability. Is one easier to convert to magnetic trigger later?

I realize I can buy a super cheap stock chevy unit and easily tune it. They are very nice designs. I don't like the way they look. Bottom line.

A single set of points would be fine. The aftermarket dual points look Ford like. I would run a Ford Duraspark or points if the housing was long enough. The chev ones have the right length to machine down.

AND........Not only am I a cheap ***, I really LIKE to do stuff like this. Or I would just plunk down $400 for an MSD ready to run.

The only reason to convert to 12 volts is because I live in AZ and I'm too much of a wimp to drive this truck in summer heat. So I will be adding A/C at some time.

I will convert when I have to buy a battery. I have most of the parts to do it on hand. Otherwise the 6 volt has been fine.

I agree with having points in a SHTF Apocalypse after an EMP. But since ONLY my truck will be running in the city. I better plan for a mount for my AR, plenty of ammo cans, and armor in my doors since I can't speed away to safety with 100 HP and my A/C on. Ha!

 

I assume these SHTF / EMF pulse comments are from readers of "One Second After"? Excellent book! But coils, starter motors, and generators/alternators are equally affected by EMF. Get out your hand-crank...

 

Or ALWAYS park on a hill.

 

Ah, air conditioning! That makes sense.

Makes sense about the AR and ammo, etc. It could get pretty rough out there!

 

Uh-oh, I may have to rethink my Prepper plans!

 

Well I decided to hold out for a distributor with mechanical AND vacuum advance. So whatever I find cheap I will get. Looks like I can get tune up parts and breaker-less conversions for either brand.

I'll be sure to post up whatever I do with pics. I know you guys like pics and you let me pic your brains so fair is fair.