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Between the pump housing assembly which has the high pressure nipple and the reservoir can there is a thin fiber washer like those red carburetor washers. This is a thin gasket not a O ring. Install can with ID tag and nut. I would apply a dab of Hylomar to that gasket. Check your pulley alignment as 99% of Ford's they are out which will push or pull and add unneccessary end thrust wear them shim the pump to mount to correct. I have the cast iron mount on the 68 CS.
Are we having fun yet? Next week we'll walk someone thru a steering box rebuild while they're in Ethiopia without a seal kit, that will be easy as Bendix boxes leak with seals and wouldn't you know it Rover's use a Bendix SB and imput shaft seal leaks. Same design problem flaw as when Bendix PS boxes were in our trucks.
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Last edited by "Beemer Nut"; Apr 15, 2006 at 10:36 AM.
Beemer, why is it that the pump seems better but I still have some stiff turning? Could the pressure hose be a contributor to the apparent loss of pressure to the steering gear? Sometimes even a blip of throttle doesn't loosen her up. Would the leak at the back of the reservoir be allowing air in at some point that the pump is calling for fluid, and that air entry could contribute to the arthritic steering?
The oil inlet for the pump faces down, you would have less than 12 ounces of fluid before sucking air and then the pump would whine, you'll know. I would TEE into the high pressure output from the pump, add a 0-2000 psi pressure gauge then find what the pressure numbers are and a quick lock to check pressure relief setting. Are you sure all the slippers were installed the correct way as one side is flat?
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No way unless the return line is kinked.
Look up www.stangerssite.com go down until you see 1965 to 1977 Ford Power Steering Pumps, Thompson Style.
Below is a clear picture of the cam, rotor and slippers.
You should have power steering at idle rpm's if you turn the wheel slowly not a yank as that will demand more fluid than the pump discharges at low rpm's.
I don't remember the pump output pressure or the relief bypass and I recall if you asked different rebuilders you'll get different pressure answers. I don't want to give a guess psi numbers. You might get pressure numbers from stangers posted above.
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The pressure line is OK, they fail by splitting open etc. If it was blocked there would be no power assist. If anything in the return line was blocked it would really blow open or pop off a fitting. The return line won't stand much pressure.
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