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I just installed this same kit on Saturday 4/22/06. They are coming from Wabash Ford in Indianapolis.
2000 V10 4x4 4:30 88,000
Stealership did drivers side lower about 10k ago along with a full brake job and alignment. Passenger side lower was starting to go so I opted to replace all 4 with the MOOG kit myself. Upper grease zerk is 90 degree, but still too close for comfort. MOOG instructions state to remove it after greasing and re-install plug.
Passenger sider lower sealed bearing hub bolts were totally rusted! not fun! 7 ton puller and a big sledge hammer, so then I replaced the bearing too at $320, 4 wheel ABS.
You absolutely will need a seal installer tool, you can make one or buy one, but you will need one. You will also need a ball-joint press. If you replace a sealed bearing hub unit, also buy new stud bolts. Getting the old ones out is NOT easy, but all of my dealership mechanics and parts counter workers were on strike so I couldn't get parts.
I also opted to replace U-joints while I was in there. I also painted the hub studs with anti-sieze at re-assembly should I ever need to go back in there.
If the hub studs weren't rusted in so bad it really wouldn't have been that bad, but living in Minnesota, rust is everywhere.
2001 SC was starting to pull to the right @ 120000 miles, tires leaned in at the top and was starting to wear on the inside edges. Top joints shot - replaced with moogs myself. I have a ball joint press but the cups were too short so I cut some new ones out of house jack pipe. Made the seal driver out of pipe and flange. After one side was done and all the tools made up the other side went much smoother.
Dealer replaced all four noisy front end ball joints at 18,000 miles!!! The truck is an 04 4x4 used for light towing. We did have lots of salt last winter, but Damm, 18,000miles/2 years?!
Make your own, cheap and easy. Click on this link and scroll to the bottom, there is a list of what you need and a picture of the assembled tool. I wish I'd have seen this before I done my own balljoints. I ended up taking my axels to a Ford dealer to have the seals installed, luckily they didn't charge me.
Jack up one wheel at a time. Get a good hold on the wheel, cradling from the bottom with both arms, pull and lift toward you and up. If you hear or feel any slop, or clunk, their done.
My reccomendation, is to replace all four plus u-joints with MOOG greasables when the time comes. Then hopefully you won't ever have to do it again.
I just had mine replaced on my 350 4x4 at 82,578. Not sure of the past history on it.
There is a company that provides complete front axle upgrades to specifically address all these problems. Can't remember the name but the cost of 2 grand and change was just to far out there for me.... until I started tallying up all the repairs of balljoints and bearings.
My general policy on this truck has been to always replace with heavy duty aftermarket but a complete axle change is out of reach right now.
Lately noticed a clunk when I hit a pothole just right. Figured I better check everything in the front end. Ball joints gone, 2 out of 3; did not even check the fourth one, just bought all four. Truck has just over 216k but it is an oddball to this site - 2WD. Went ahead and bought new Hawk brake pads and Powerslot rotors to do it all at the same time while it is all broken down. And no, never had any rotor problems, but one rear brake hung and wore down to the backing and scored the rotor bad and I just put a set of cheap Autozone pads on in a hurry to get me back running.