Instrument Cluster Voltage Regulator
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Junior User
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From: Wijk bij Duurstede Nether
Instrument Cluster Voltage Regulator
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 16-Dec-02 AT 11:47 AM (EST)]Got a 1972 F100 RANGER XLT, unfortunately today my instrument cluster voltage regulator died.
The only replacement available here in Holland is:
Manufacturer: Standard
Part : VRC604
Does anybody know if this is a correct replacement for the ICVR?
OR:
Has anybody the part I need, and is willing to sell&send it to me?
Paul
The only replacement available here in Holland is:
Manufacturer: Standard
Part : VRC604
Does anybody know if this is a correct replacement for the ICVR?
OR:
Has anybody the part I need, and is willing to sell&send it to me?
Paul
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Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 271
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From: La Canada, CA
Instrument Cluster Voltage Regulator
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 16-Dec-02 AT 01:07 PM (EST)]This is a common part. Did you check with Ford? Kragen at www.csk.com stocks them. I imagine most parts stores carry them. Take the old one with you to the parts store and compare.
Post Fiend
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From: Brea CA
Instrument Cluster Voltage Regulator
Yours should look like this Echlin replacement (ECHIR8)
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gallery/sizeimage.php?&photoid=11298&.jpg
Basically they work all the same, it's the connector configurations that changed around. Verify that the replacement has the same style connectors located in the exact same places and you will be ok.
Barry
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gallery/sizeimage.php?&photoid=11298&.jpg
Basically they work all the same, it's the connector configurations that changed around. Verify that the replacement has the same style connectors located in the exact same places and you will be ok.
Barry
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From: Wijk bij Duurstede Nether
Instrument Cluster Voltage Regulator
Did some research, and will be building a new instrument voltage regulator using a solidstate 5V regulator (7805) just hope the 1 amp it delivers is enough...
Will post the outcome....
Paul
Will post the outcome....
Paul
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Instrument Cluster Voltage Regulator
Hi Penn,
I'll send you one if it looks like the one pictured above.
I know in 68 they had different conections,they took a spade connector.
Contact me privately though Please.
Dennis
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I'll send you one if it looks like the one pictured above.
I know in 68 they had different conections,they took a spade connector.
Contact me privately though Please.
Dennis
F.T.E. Assistant Administrator
http://www.clubfte.com/users/mil1ion/SigSanta.JPG
[font color=red]
"May The Spirit Of Christmas Be An Inspiration To You Throughout The Year"[/font]
[link:www.ford-trucks.com/guidelines.html|Club FTE]
[link: motorhaven.autoanything.com|How YOU Can Support This Site]
[link:www.clubfte.com/users/mil1ion/Mil1ion.html|My Website,"North Of The 49th"]
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From: Wijk bij Duurstede Nether
Instrument Cluster Voltage Regulator
Yesterday I Built an electronic voltage regulator, and it works fine!
All the gauges point correct.
Here the scheme...
http://www.euronet.nl/~penn/ICVR.jpg
the components are very common.
The capacitors are there to prevent the 7805 to go into oscilaton.
I built the capacitors into the old housing, and the 7805 together with a small cooler on top of it.
Paul
All the gauges point correct.
Here the scheme...
http://www.euronet.nl/~penn/ICVR.jpg
the components are very common.
The capacitors are there to prevent the 7805 to go into oscilaton.
I built the capacitors into the old housing, and the 7805 together with a small cooler on top of it.
Paul
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From: Sun River St. George
Instrument Cluster Voltage Regulator
Good one! It is surprising what some can and will do to keep these old Fords on the road. Penn, you should write a technical article and submit it to Ken!
William in Atlanta
William in Atlanta
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Post Fiend
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From: Brea CA
Instrument Cluster Voltage Regulator
Nice job Paul. One question, where did you get the +12 volts for the input? Reason I ask is the origional input to the mechanical IVR may have said +12 volts but it's going through a resistance wire ( I forget what the value is) so the input voltage drops depending on the current being supplied. This shouldn't make any difference with the solid state device as it probably likes the lower input voltage (less voltage to drop internally and less heat). It would be interesting to measure what the input voltage really is during worst case current draw (all gauges reading high).
Barry
Barry
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From: Wijk bij Duurstede Nether
Instrument Cluster Voltage Regulator
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 19-Dec-02 AT 06:47 AM (EST)]I used the old voltage regulator for the connections, I measured the input voltage for the voltage regulator, and it was 13,6 volts. It seemed there is no resistance wire, maybe on the output to the sending units? Anyway the gauges are accurate.
The 7805 works with a voltage minimal 3 volts above the output, so it will work from 8 volts up.
Paul
P.S.
I will try to find some time to take pictures and write the tech article.... coming soon.
The 7805 works with a voltage minimal 3 volts above the output, so it will work from 8 volts up.
Paul
P.S.
I will try to find some time to take pictures and write the tech article.... coming soon.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 5,130
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From: Brea CA
Instrument Cluster Voltage Regulator
I just looked at some wiring diagrams for our pickups and you’re right, no resistance wire before the IVR. That’s interesting because the cars and vans have one, even the later pickups do.
Anyway, have you checked the calibration of your gauges? Easy to do, just unplug the sending unit and insert a resistor between the sending wire and ground. Factory calibration values are 10 ohms =high hash mark, 73 ohms = low hash mark, 22.8 ohms = midscale. Yeah some of these are non-standard values, a 22 and 68 ohm resistor will work fine. I made a gauge tester using a box with a rotary switch that selected these values and clip leads to attach to the sending wire, works great.
Barry
Anyway, have you checked the calibration of your gauges? Easy to do, just unplug the sending unit and insert a resistor between the sending wire and ground. Factory calibration values are 10 ohms =high hash mark, 73 ohms = low hash mark, 22.8 ohms = midscale. Yeah some of these are non-standard values, a 22 and 68 ohm resistor will work fine. I made a gauge tester using a box with a rotary switch that selected these values and clip leads to attach to the sending wire, works great.
Barry
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