The 352 in my 67 f100 Started to go clack clack clack when I let off the gas pedal and smokes really bad is this a bad valve? It just started to do this and it smokes a little bit at idle and it seems like it has power and it runs pretty decent. The truck sat for about a month without being started and it didn't smoke last time it was running I just noticed it after about 15-20 minutes after running. Thanks Eric

 

You may have a sticky valve or lifter, causing the rocker to be "loose".

Nathan

 

are the pushrods supposed to turn when the engine is runing I pulled the passenger side valve cover and all but one pushrod turn when the engine is running. When you start the truck it don't smoke but when it has been running a couple of minutes it starts making the noise and smoking. Could the valves just need adjusting? And is there supposed to bae space between the rockers and the valves when the pushrodes go down it looks like there is maby an eight of an inch between them? If they do need adjusting how would I do that? also does any one know what wires are for what on the ignition switch the only ones I have hooked up are for the starter and the coil? Sorry for the long post Thanks Eric

 

Today I was running it and it just quit I didn't try to start it back up but opened the hood and one of the plug wires was on fire the other three on the passenger side were melted to the plugs I pulled all the plugs and they looked like they were steam cleaned and the top of one of the pistons I could see was clean. Could this be from the marvels mystery oil I added to the oil or is it a cracked head/block or blown head gaskets? There also was oil on the front of the engine by the distributor i think the gasked is bad from the intake to the block I noticed a little bit of oil there before but I thought it might have been from when I pulled the valve covers off. Thanks Eric

 

Eric clean it up good and start watching to see where it starts from.


John
jowilker

66 F100s
In the still cool hours of the night, you can hear chevys rusting away.

 

If the top of a piston looks steam cleaned, it probably is. Check your coolant level, if it is low, you probably have a blown head gasket.
While your in there, you can replace gaskets on your way up and adjust valves/rods at that time.

Dave,
79 F-150 4x4, 390 w/C6, Edelbrock carb, 33X12.50 never will be finished

 

I replaced the plugs and wires today and the darn thing won't start it sounds like it is firing on about one or two plugs only I checked to make sure I put the wires in the right spot and it was getting gas and was firing on the one I checked. I am going to pull the intake and heads I hope to have hardend valve seats put in some time in january. How can I check the rings, with a compression tester? Thanks for the help Eric

 

Sounds like your plug wires got some oil on them when you had the valve cover off and subsequently caught fire. I couldn't think of any other reason wires would burn.

 

I pulled the rockers and the intake today the first valve towards the front on the passenger side has some wear on the top of it none of the others do what could have caused this. The valley between the heads have alot of crap on them. How can I clean this up? Put a rag in the holes and scrape it off. Is there a way to clean the lifters up or should they be replaced? I think the smoke was from oil part of the seal between the intake and the heads had oil on it. Thanks
Eric

 

I got the valley cleaned up and the lifters cleaned up put a new intake gasket on it and it still won't start. I think it is the timing chain because it backfires nomater were I set the timing. It is not 180 degrees out i tried both ways. It was backfiring and it wont start. I think it blew the doghnut seals in the exhaust out. Is there away to check the timing chain without pulling it apart? Thanks Eric

 

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SORRY, BUT I HAD TO LAUGH OUT LOUD WHEN YOU SAID YOU BLEW THE DOUGHNUT GASKETS OUT. STILL LAUGHING. PULL #1 PLUG OUT. IT IS THE ONE CLOSEST TO THE FRONT. PUT YOUR FINGER IN THE HOLE AND HAVE SOMEONE BUMP THE ENGINE UNTIL IT COMES UP ON TOP DEAD CENTER,(BLOWS YOUR FINGER OUT). THEN LOOK IN THE DISTRIBUTOR TO SEE WHICH WIRE TERMINAL THE ROTOR IS POINTING TO. THIS WILL BE #1 CYLINDER. WIRE IN THE CORRECT FIRING ORDER AND BE SURE YOU ARE WIRING IN THE DIRECTION THAT THE ROTOR TURNS. THIS WILL GET YOU CLOSE ENOUGH TO START.

 

BE sure to check the piont gap as well. make sure all the wire's are hooked up to the coil and dist. the get knocked off and are easily over looked. yes the push rods do spin when running.

 

Most FE don't have any adjustment to the valves, IF you need to adjust the valve, you have to get different length push rods. The push rods should spin when not under pressure. 1/8" is too much clearance for a valve, sounds like stuck valve problem which may cause the exhaust gas to burn out the exhaust and cause back fire, and hot exhaust.

check for TDC by removing the valve cover and watch the #1 valves, after intake moves, go to TDC by looking at the timming marks, then look at the rotor it should be pointing to #1 wire. Or just use the finger in hole method. Check for bent push rods, a stuck valve can cause bent push rods. As for checking the timming of the cam, a compression check should tell you if you are off. Most 360/390's should have 150+ compression. I have a new stock 360 that makes 165+ and a 428 that makes 205# compression, if the cam is off, the compression will drop. Even and old engine should make about 115+