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I ended up buying a new assembly. Ford list was $272.00. I get a discount and it came to $231. Still expensive. It took about 10 minutes including the time to find the right tools. It did improve things some. My truck weighs about 12500# and I usually tow a trailer anywhere from 5000# to 12,000#. So it is no race car to start with. But there was an improvement. To me it was worth doing. Going to look at the ebpv next.
Thanks for the help.
So you are saying that a new stock pedal assembly helped your performance? I have seen aftermarket pedals advertise more HP/Torque and I thought that it was strange that a pedal could do anything but transmit how hard you pushed on it. Like it would work or it wouldn't.
Also I think that your 3.73 gears are excellent, trike1946. My 4.10s make the engine rev to high on the freeway...
I have seen aftermarket pedals advertise more HP/Torque and I thought that it was strange that a pedal could do anything but transmit how hard you pushed on it.
Tweak the position of the TPS and the break point of the IVS and you can change the rate the voltage output comes on. Doesn't really add more power, but it can make it more responsive. The down side is you'll end up with a really touchy throttle.
just a quick thought. maybe you are having trouble with your ebpv sticking. It closes when the engine is first started and cold. Maybe it isnt opening right back up. Just a thought maybe it will help. Let us know. good luck
edit: ebpv = exhaust back pressure valve
If this valve were to be open or fully shut, could this prevent the engine from starting and only allow it to crank? When it is cold, sometimes my engine just turns over and doesn't fire. I cycle the key and while waiting for the GPR again, I may hear and feel a thud or clunk. Not the sound of a GPR opening. After that I can crank and it immediately starts.
Nobody has been able to tell me what the clunk is. The EBPV is the only thing I can think of that would produce a no start and may be big enough to slam shut or open.