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I went out to look. What a surprise. No cable, just wires. Looks easy enough to change though. I'm guessing I have some sort of problem with it. I lack throttle response most of the time. My 96 has much better response. Both have the same size body, and load. Is there a way to check for sure before I spend the money, besides codes? I have no CEL on. I have a code reader for OBD II, but I think it is only for gas engines. Maybe AZ will be able to check it. Thanks for all the help.
Sorry risky, I seem to have hijacked the thread. Since our problems are the same I hope it is helping you too.
Last edited by trike1946; Mar 12, 2006 at 12:18 PM.
I went out to look. What a surprise. No cable, just wires. Looks easy enough to change though. I'm guessing I have some sort of problem with it. I lack throttle response most of the time. My 96 has much better response. Both have the same size body, and load. Is there a way to check for sure before I spend the money, besides codes? I have no CEL on. I have a code reader for OBD II, but I think it is only for gas engines. Maybe AZ will be able to check it. Thanks for all the help.
Sorry risky, I seem to have hijacked the thread. Since our problems are the same I hope it is helping you too.
Since you have more than one vehicle with a 7.3 try swapping the pedal assemblies around.
I ended up buying a new assembly. Ford list was $272.00. I get a discount and it came to $231. Still expensive. It took about 10 minutes including the time to find the right tools. It did improve things some. My truck weighs about 12500# and I usually tow a trailer anywhere from 5000# to 12,000#. So it is no race car to start with. But there was an improvement. To me it was worth doing. Going to look at the ebpv next.
Thanks for the help.
I was told at the dealer I bought it from that it was a 4.10. They said they looked it up. I have not checked myself. Both trucks are supposed to be the same. My IDI is a 3.54.
I considered that too, but I would have more top end if that were the case. I can barely hit 70. I think the axle code was 81. I looked at about a week ago. So with my empty box memory, I am guessing. If that is not right I can go out and look. thanks
I went and looked, it is 81. Since it is a super duty I would think it would be 4.10. But the dealer could have been guessing and told me wrong.
Last edited by trike1946; Mar 18, 2006 at 10:05 AM.
Kwik, you were right. It is not 4.10, it is 3.73. They lied where I bought it. That's why I am having so much trouble towing heavy. Not sure what to do now. Maybe another rear or maybe one of those gear vendors.
Sorry again risky. I hope you got something out of this.
Kwik, you were right. It is not 4.10, it is 3.73. They lied where I bought it. That's why I am having so much trouble towing heavy. Not sure what to do now. Maybe another rear or maybe one of those gear vendors.
Sorry again risky. I hope you got something out of this.
Ok, mystery solved.
You would be surprised at how affordable a gear change is.
$875 with labor is pretty reasonable. Most places will be upward of a grand parts and labor. Double that if it's a 4x4.
A gear change is the perfect time to swap to a limited slip...just takes a couple hundred dollars more for the differential...but honestly, an open diff is better for a dedicated tow vehicle. Traction is rarely an issue on the highway, and open diffs turn easier with less tire wear.
Did you ever find the EBV? It's the flange that's held on t the turbo outlet with three bolts. The downpipe connects to it.
Thank you. I'm going to check the EBV next. How can I tell if it is working right?
I'll have to think about the gear change. I'm not sure about the limited slip. I have it for towing, but I'm in construction, and I drive onto unfinished sites a lot. My 96 is limited slip. I only notice it on tight slow turns.
If the EBV is working right you'll barely ever notice it unless it's cold out, you can hear the exhaust note change when it closes. If it's sticking closed you will have a power loss with excessive exhaust gas temperatures.