Any suggestions on the build-up???
#1
#2
need a whole lot more info than that, like what are you going to use it for, what are you willing to spend (be realistic please) and if you have any parts what are they. I mean I could start throughing parts ideas at you but without some idea what your wanting it would be a waste of time.
#3
Its going into a 1992 F150 2x4, and as i get money ill spend it on parts when i can. its not going to be a little 2 year project here. Its gettin tubbed and customized. I have stock 1979 460 crank, cam, block, heads. Desired Horsepower is atleast 650 whenever i get it done. but that aint anytime soon so im not too worried about too many part options or ideas
#4
well If you want HP. you ought to look at a stroker kit. after all there is no replacement for dicplacement... 1970 Dove heads or look aftermarket. High compressios will be needed a large cam that will probably require a stall convertor. headers, depending on what rpm range you want to run a single or dual plane intake. Think of an engine as a large air pump the more air you can get therough the engine the more power you can generate of course that trade off agian is where in the rpm range you want the power you decide this then you start a plan. Also if you plan to go high rpms be sure to make the lower end as solid as possible.
hope this helps.
hope this helps.
#5
Yeah, the crank (EAGLE brand) from jegs has a 4.140 stroke which puts it at 494 without being over bored. I was thinkin the Edelbrock RPM airgap intake 1500 - 6500 since its not going to be a complete drag truck. I don't know which cam i feel like picking yet though. I will just choose that when its comes time to. keep the ideas coming please, thanks
#7
the eagle 4.14" stroke crank is the smallest of the stroker cranks out there, I am running a 4.300" stroke and in my experience that seems to be a very good comprimise between max cid, and side loading of the pistons and with a stock bore you have a 514cid, bore it .030 and your at 521. Or you can go with a 4.5" stroke stock bore will yeild 545cid. But looke at it this way just the 521 cid which is what the ford crate motors are with a set of SCJ alum heads and a mild roller cam that ford puts into those running around 9.5:1 compression with a single 4barrel carb makes 612hp, at a slightly hotter cam and that engine easily produces over 700hp.
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#8
#9
scat makes a good crank, so does eagle I am running eagle Hbeams on an ams racing cast stroker crank about the same as the eagle crank making well over 800hp shifting at 7200rpm with a 8000rpm rev limiter, so for a street engine either will do just fine IMHO. Also for a little more money there has just recently been the introduction of forged steel cranks for these engines that are rated for 1200+hp and costing around 750-850 from what I have seen. my next engine will either have one of these new forged units or I will bite bullit and step up to a billet unit, in either case I will step up to billet rods but I don't really see a need for this in most street applications.
And yes balancing is mandatory with any of these stroker setups.
here is a good source for stroker setups at reasonalbe prices you might give Brian a call and see what he can do for you.
http://www.adperformance.com/
And yes balancing is mandatory with any of these stroker setups.
here is a good source for stroker setups at reasonalbe prices you might give Brian a call and see what he can do for you.
http://www.adperformance.com/
#10
But that is a motor that is intended for bracket drag racing. Are you going to use this truck on the street as a daily driver? Weekend driver? Drag racing?
I have the 514 crate motor in an '88 mustang. I used a smaller intake (Weiand stealth), it uses the old style aluminum heads, 750 carb(mighty demon) and a hydralic roller cam with about 640 lift. Biggest one Crane lists in its books I think, but it's still smaller than the solid roller (constant valve adjustment I was told by Ford) that comes with this motor. I did this to make it a streetable motor. People still stare and everyone knows your running serious power from a block away.
This thing thumps and would be rough for daily driving but your version of daily driver tolerance may be higher than mine. It runs 9.5 compression so pump gas is fine. With it detuned like that it has 400hp and 500lb. That is to the rear wheels. Remember your trying to make twice the horsepower with the same motor with just a few changes.
Good luck with it cause it will be loads of fun regardless.
I have the 514 crate motor in an '88 mustang. I used a smaller intake (Weiand stealth), it uses the old style aluminum heads, 750 carb(mighty demon) and a hydralic roller cam with about 640 lift. Biggest one Crane lists in its books I think, but it's still smaller than the solid roller (constant valve adjustment I was told by Ford) that comes with this motor. I did this to make it a streetable motor. People still stare and everyone knows your running serious power from a block away.
This thing thumps and would be rough for daily driving but your version of daily driver tolerance may be higher than mine. It runs 9.5 compression so pump gas is fine. With it detuned like that it has 400hp and 500lb. That is to the rear wheels. Remember your trying to make twice the horsepower with the same motor with just a few changes.
Good luck with it cause it will be loads of fun regardless.
#11
Naw the ford crate motor makes a decent hot street engine, now this on the other hand would make a decent bracket engine bracket engine
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