Has anyone bought or used a Full Tilt Street Rod "Hub to Hub" IFS? I am working on a 53 F100 and looking for a good IFS to install. I have also looked at the Helix Corner Killer? Suggestions would be greatly appreciated. This is my first F100 build.

 

Tci, Fatman and Heidts are the name brands for MII front suspensions.

I have a Tci anda no name version and they look just about the same.


Sam

 

Jaguar.
If it is your first build, rebuild the stock front axle add lowering springs, put a good set of shocks on it and install Toyota PS box. 1/2-2/3 the cost and 90% the ride and handling of IFS. also can be done with basic tools in 2 weeks instead of 4-18 months. Much more satisfying and enjoyable to have a driver on the road than a pile of expensive fancy parts in the garage.

 

iv'e used a few different brands of IFS on my builds, they pretty much install the same. lately i've come to favor gayle bridges version. he is on the net, google him. it doesn't take long,and isnt difficult to install an IFS, as some would have you believe. just don't try to cut corners, and yes, removal of the engine is needed. while you have it out, it'll need something anyway. if it is a total rebuild, it's out anyway. welding skills are needed, if can't/won't do it - fab it up and take it to someone can. after that it's just nuts and bolts.

any Q's feel free to ask Double G Customs | friendship, WI 53934 and the advice is free.

daren

 

Helix, I believe, is part of the Hoffman group. While they have great big ad's in the magazines, they have a poor reputation.

 

Just a word from the wise, do NOT use the '91-ish Jaguar suspension. If you go with the Jag, use the earlier one (80's-ish)

I got the '91 in and functional on my F1, but saying it is just a bit more work is a serious understatement. Aside from the time investment however, the cost was super low and the quality is very high (now).

I am a strong supporter of junkyard IFS though. They are literally 10x less expensive than the MSII. Even though I make a good paycheck, saving a couple grand and getting to play around in the junkyard is a deal I will take any day.

 

Thanks for the info. I already have everything stripped down to the bare frame. This is a total rebuild, this being said I am sure I will be asking for help on issues down the road.

 

I have lowering springs and a toyota steering box and I drive the hell outta my truck. Freeways, offramps, dragstrip and daily cruising, this setup works great. I am about to upgrade to spendy shocks fr/rr as good shocks make all the difference. I don't plan on going IFS on this truck, would rather spend the money on motor, etc when needed.
Here's a pic.... I am very low and don't scrape anything, can pull into driveways with no problem and really, the truck rides very nicely.
I had the option to go IFS and opted not to.... I am also running front disk brakes and once i made steering stops.... had no issues at all.

 

Good shocks don't have to be spendy. Single adjustable QA1s are about 150. each, Koni SA "yellows" about 190, but they are worth it.

I too could have and intended to swap to IFS in my truck, but after driving it cross country I decided the fully rebuilt front axle with reversed eye lowering springs already in place drove really nice.

 

evobuilder, your truck looks like my panel's cousin:

 

I think I will try to just go with the orginal axle and upgrade to the disc brakes. suggestions for the brakes? What lowering springs did you install? I was reading that some have used the orginal rear springs removing every other one to lower and soften the ride?

 

There are a number of companies making disk conversion kits. Watch the bolt patterns offered, buy the same pattern as on the rear axle you are using so you don't have to carry two spares. Remember when switching to front disks you will also need to change to a disk/drum or disk/disk dual chamber master cylinder. Disks require a larger volume of fluid.
A disk/drum MC may have the proportioning valve built in (ask the MC supplier) or you may need a separate disk/drum proportioning valve block. An adjustable block allows you to fine tune the rear pressure to reduce premature lockup. A pickup has very little weight on the rear wheels. I tried disk fronts without a power booster, then added a booster
Like the front suspension, there is nothing wrong with the front drum brakes that new wheel cylinders, lines, shoes and grinding the drums won't fix unless you do a lot of hot weather, mountain driving or tow a trailer. In fact under most conditions except driving thru deep water the drums are better. I would however for safety sake replace the single circuit with a dual circuit MC and all new hard and flex lines.

I'm using the reversed eye lowering springs from Mid Fifty Mid Fifty F-100 Parts - Home. Some people like the more centered in the fender arch appearance of moving the front axle ~ 1 1/2" forward of the stock location. MF also offers their down and forward springs to accomplish that. The panel already has the wheel better centered so I didn't need to move it.
Yes, if your springs are in good shape, no breaks or gouges, you can lower and soften the ride by removing every other leaf out of the front and rear springs. Be sure to put a couple heavy C-clamps on the spring, lay it on it's side on the garage floor and stand on top of it so your feet are out of harms way while you remove the center bolt and then slowly release the clamps. The spring is under a lot of tension and can blow apart. Clean the leafs by sanding them smooth in a lengthwise direction only. Never sand or grind in a rotary or crosswise direction. even a sanding scratch can cause a stress riser resulting in a crack. After sanding smooth DO NOT paint them! Wipe on a thin coat of wheel bearing grease to keep from rusting. Buy a roll of the HMW plastic liner strip to put between the leafs when you reassemble using a new shorter center bolt. MF has everything you need and instructions on which leafs to remove in their catalog (it's free and has a wealth of useful info in it as well as good diagrams. Call their toll free # and order one if you don't have one. You can download it off their website, but it's something you'll want to have close at hand throughout the build, so get a print copy as well.) The gals (all female company!) at MF are all extremely knowledgeable and helpful, they live and breathe Mid 50 trucks.

 

Thanks for all the great info. I have been working on it today. Can you bead blast the springs instead of sanding?

 

If you use glass bead or black beauty blasting media. Don't use play sand or masonary sand! Blast at a shallow angle lengthwise. If someone doesn't have a sandblaster, a belt sander with silicon carbide grit belts works well.

 

That looks very nice what combination of things did you do front and back to get that stance?