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door speaker wiring routing

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Old Mar 3, 2006 | 08:34 PM
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n9lhm's Avatar
n9lhm
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door speaker wiring routing

I want to add door speakers to my '76 that did NOT have them from the factory. Dennis Carpenter sells the door speaker wiring harnesses, but I'm curious where do they go exactly? My doors have two small holes in them on the hinge panel, but I don't see any corresponding holes in the body where the wiring would go back to the radio. Can someone take a picture with a digital camera of their OEM door speaker wiring to help me see where it goes exactly? Thanks in advance, Brian
 
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Old Mar 3, 2006 | 09:13 PM
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jstandle
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I just punched a hole in the grommets and ran a wire inbetween. I am curious how long it will last from the door opening and closing. So far so good.
 
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Old Mar 3, 2006 | 09:47 PM
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Thats the way my1979 F250 came The wires are holding up good from door opening and closing
 
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Old Mar 3, 2006 | 11:19 PM
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fordraceboy
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mine didn't last too long... bout 4 or 5 years.. i was gonna go to the contact strip things that they offer in summit but then the speakers don't work with the door open.. and i like to have the stereo up when i'm working on it or out playing... so i just went to a smaller guage wire and it actually lasts a bit better it seems. maybe not as much to get pinched?
 
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Old Mar 4, 2006 | 12:29 AM
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You need to drill 1/2" holes and find some grommets with 1/4" holes in them for this install.

There should be some indents marking the spot for speaker wire harness on both the door & the jamb.

I have a picture of mine around here somewhere.
 
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Old Mar 4, 2006 | 12:36 AM
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Torque1st
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Get the most flexible wire you can find. Electronic supply houses are a good source. Test lead wire is very flexible but it has a small gage wire. For heavier duty there is a very flexible ~12AWG $ilicone covered wire available at hobby shops that is used for R/C battery connections. There are multi-conductor wire cables made for very flexible machine tool connections also available from electronic supply houses. Just splice the wire with soldered connections inside the door and kick panel. Secure the connections with ty-wraps to prevent the connection and other wiring from flexing.
 

Last edited by Torque1st; Mar 4, 2006 at 12:42 AM.
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Old Mar 4, 2006 | 06:48 AM
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n9lhm
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I'm hoping the Dennis Carpenter harness has the molded-on seals, but I guess I will have to call them to be sure. I'll wipe some of the dirt off of the door jamb and try to find the indentations. A pic would still be helpful if someone gets a chance. Is the OEM wiring up high in the jamb or down low? Thanks, Brian
 
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Old Mar 4, 2006 | 11:19 AM
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Old Mar 4, 2006 | 06:54 PM
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n9lhm
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Ah, so the wiring is up high. Could you take another picture of the inside of the door jamb so I can see where it enters the door? Thanks, Brian
 
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Old Mar 5, 2006 | 01:10 AM
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jstandle
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You can see where I ran mine in this one, thats a factory grommet;

 
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Old Mar 5, 2006 | 06:51 AM
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teds74ford
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I routed my wires in vacuum hose, and then routed the hose up through a hole above the hinge and into the cab. At the door, I drilled a hole and put in a gromet that snugly fit the vacuum hose. It is very waterproof, and has been working good for about a year and a half. It was a little tricky snaking it in to the cab but I didn't want to drill any more holes than absolutely necessary.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2006 | 11:43 AM
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The one thing you have to consider when doing this (as you probably know) is using something that isn't prone to KINKING inside the door jamb and ruining the wiring.

The best stuff I find is that weaved cloth covering loom wire, run through grommets.

It is flexible enough to handle the closed door position.
 
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Old Mar 7, 2006 | 07:22 AM
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btacarlton
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I think www.classicautoparts.com sells stainless braided wiring looms for the doors. The loom actually slides in and out of a fitting as you open and close the door. There like $36 or something like that.
 
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