Check Engine Light
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Check Engine Light
my duaghters 99 explorer just passed 73000 miles and the check engine light comes. are there any auotmatic sensor alarms that go off at around this time or should i have it checked out. or am i just going to have to pay them to turn the light off
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You can turn the light off yourself....just disconnect the battery for 15 minutes....but unless you resolve the problem that triggered the light to come on in the first place it's bound to reappear.
Hop on over to your local Autozone and have them scan the computer, it's free. They will give you the codes that triggered the light. Post the codes here and someone will surely help you get to the root of the problem.
Hop on over to your local Autozone and have them scan the computer, it's free. They will give you the codes that triggered the light. Post the codes here and someone will surely help you get to the root of the problem.
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From: Phoenix
The old auto signals have gone away with the inclusion of more intelligent computers. If you get a CEL, the computer will had stored codes. Repost once read. If you say, have a 176 rich code, this does not mean you have a bad O2 sensor - maybe/maybe not. We can help you pin point to the root cause.
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what code did they give you? you said sensors so im assuming there are more than 1 bad? If its coming up like bank 1 sensor 1 malfunction and bank 1 sensor 2 slow response the upstream bank one could be the problem?
What codes was stored in your computer?
What codes was stored in your computer?
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From: Phoenix
Exactly. Just as I said before. There is no code that diffinitively points to a bad component. All the computer does is say - "hey, this is a little out of whack over here."
When you say bad CO2 sensor I assume you mean O2 sensore. Carbon dioxide is a natural biproduct of combustion but not measured except for when you get you car smog checked.
Anyway, we need the code numbers and then we'll set you out to work to investigate a little more. Like pull all the spark plugs and what do they look like? Black=rich, white=lean....but let us know the code numbers first.
When you say bad CO2 sensor I assume you mean O2 sensore. Carbon dioxide is a natural biproduct of combustion but not measured except for when you get you car smog checked.
Anyway, we need the code numbers and then we'll set you out to work to investigate a little more. Like pull all the spark plugs and what do they look like? Black=rich, white=lean....but let us know the code numbers first.
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well ill have to take it back,my wife and daughter took it up there they did not give them a code just told them it was running lean and the o2 sensors needed replaced
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From: Phoenix
Though they try, the employees at Autozone are not mechanics - they are salespeople. The manager at the one I go to tried to tell me I can't put the 130 Amp alternator on my Explorer since it came with a 95 Amp one - said it would overcharge my battery and fry it. I asked to see his electrical engineering degree - or yeah, he's a salesman.
PCM codes are designed to report conditions. They don't diagnos anything. It might be you need new O2's. With that many miles if they are original I would change them anyway just to be proactive. But that's me. Other's wouldn't agree.
PCM codes are designed to report conditions. They don't diagnos anything. It might be you need new O2's. With that many miles if they are original I would change them anyway just to be proactive. But that's me. Other's wouldn't agree.
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Badcuda, first check the air tube running from the MAF sensor to the throttle body, making sure there's no cracks or loose fittings. Check the PCV hose that fits into it. If everything looks OK, then I'd suspect bad intake gaskets. They're actually O-rings that seal the lower intake to the heads, and they have a history of leaking. Not hard to change at all, but I'd recommend a Haynes manual for a guide. The AutoZone website might have instructions, or a search might turn up something.....
I agree with Jharger that changing high mileage O2 sensors is a good idea, since they do wear and get 'lazy'. Replacing them won't permanently remedy the codes in this case however, since lean codes are caused from a lean air/fuel mixture and not bad sensors.
I'm not the mind reader 'Karnac the Magnificent'
in guessing the codes, it's just that they are common, and the usual cause is leaking intake gaskets.....
TLR
I agree with Jharger that changing high mileage O2 sensors is a good idea, since they do wear and get 'lazy'. Replacing them won't permanently remedy the codes in this case however, since lean codes are caused from a lean air/fuel mixture and not bad sensors.
I'm not the mind reader 'Karnac the Magnificent'
in guessing the codes, it's just that they are common, and the usual cause is leaking intake gaskets.....TLR
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From: Phoenix
Another thing too, as a normal course of maintenance, is to clean the MAF sensor. It's in the air intake tube, has a 4 pin oval connector on it and 2 security torx screws holding it in place. Pull it and shoot it with carb cleaner. This takes 5 minutes. Do this and then disconnect the battery to clear the stored computer codes. Run down to autozone again (or buy your own scanner by this point) and see what codes are there. If the same, I'd move forward with the other obvious leaks that ranger mentioned...then on to the intake gaskets. Check here to clean MAF http://draco.acs.uci.edu/explorer/
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thanks guys! i will definetly start with the simpler stuff.one more question,when i fix one area and unplug battery if it is not fixed will the check engine light come back on immedialty or will it take awhile,or am i going to have to take it to autozone evrytime to see if the codes are there
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From: Phoenix
That's why I suggested you buy a scanner.
If the problem is still there the CEL will go one again, when? depends on how serious the problem is I suppose. But not only clearing the codes, disconnecting the battery removes short term A/F snd spark curver short term correction factors. So if you fix the problem, the A/ and spark tables need to be reset back to zero or the computer will be compensating for a problem that is not there.
Look here for more details on EFI's http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/
If the problem is still there the CEL will go one again, when? depends on how serious the problem is I suppose. But not only clearing the codes, disconnecting the battery removes short term A/F snd spark curver short term correction factors. So if you fix the problem, the A/ and spark tables need to be reset back to zero or the computer will be compensating for a problem that is not there.
Look here for more details on EFI's http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/
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