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I have an 89 Jeep Cherokee W/150K with the upside down filter. Regardless of brand, this oil filter drains out completely in 20 minutes. It knocks and rattles like crazy till it fills up in about 5 seconds. Engine runs great but the bearings are shot. I attribute this to starting without oil for a period. None of my other cars with over 200K have ever had this problem. The number of times you change your oil is pretty small compared to the number of times that the car is started. Still, I fill my filter.
Worst practive I ever heard. Let oil drain overnight and fill the next day.
I like the Champion brands and Motorcraft cause I can open the oil filters with a heavy duty rotary can opener. Sure, it's **** retentive but has been my science project for years. Also use an oil filter on my automatic transmission fluid. That way I can check for contamination without dumping 4 quarts of fluid.
be sure that the o-ring seal comes off youre block before installing youre new filter...
i had a friend who had a 2.9 ranger...took off old filter after draining oil...replaced plug...filled new filter up(not knowing the o-ring was still stuck on the block he snugged down the new filter by hand...went up top filled up the oil,and got in started it to check for leaks...meanwhile i was standing outside maybe a few feet back from the drivers door...at first it sounded fine running and it began working its way into a knock and i looked down to see fresh oil slowly crreping toward my shoes...i told him to shut it off and i got down and looked it was pouring from where the filter meets the block...needless to say that x-tra o-ring seal in the way held the filter away just enough for him to loose just about all 5 quarts...
be sure that the o-ring seal comes off youre block before installing youre new filter...
Sounds obvious, but the same thing can be said about remembering to replace the oil drain plug. Some years ago I had a neighbor, not necessarily mechanically inclined, and one day he actually forgot to re-install the drain plug on his parents car! He might as well have been pouring the fresh motor oil directly on his driveway, because that's exactly where all 6 quarts ended up . And the driveway was on a pretty steep incline so the oil seeped about 15 ft down before anyone noticed. The stain was there for months!
i heard this from another member in a similar thread. if your oil filter is at an angle where you can't fill it you can put it in the freezer for a while to get the oil to gel up so you can have enough time to thread it on without having oil run all over. if you're worried about the cold oil not flowing as fast at startup,just let it sit and warm up b4 u start.
The engine oil you pour in flows over a couple of valve spring assemblies and down into the pan thru the oil drainback holes. The engine bearings are lubricated by oil that is pumped up out of the oil pan thru the pickup tube by the pump. It then flows out thru drilled oil passages to fill the oil filter, and then thru passages in the block and heads, etc to the bearings and lifters. Much of the oil that was in these passages has drained back into the oil pan during the oil change process. A number of parts are splash lubricated by the oil slinging off the spinning crankshaft which does not occur at first. The camshaft and valvetrain are lubricated by oil sqeezing past the lifters and their internal valves. There is no oil flowing thru the lifters on initial startup until the oil is pumped to them. Some of this varies with different engine designs, but this is the basics.
Nobody has said anything about oil temperature when doing an oil change. I was always taught that the oil should be warm so that it will flow easily out of the engine. I have always practiced this. And, now that I think about it, since the engine was warm, that means that the oil should still be coating the parts. I have heard of filling the filter with oil before starting after an oild change, but I don't believe it's necessary. Most engines I have owned over the last 12 years have had filters tilted to such a degree that most or all of the oil drains out of the filter every time the engine is turned off. It seems to reason that if the manufactureres thought the full filter was a good idea, then they wouldn't build engines with these side mount filters that self drain. John T
A few weeks ago I went to change the oil in my '95 F-150. I pulled it into our hangar at work where I had tools, equipment and a warm place to work. I grabbed my favorite drain bucket which I had made myself and used many times. I pulled the drain plug and let the oil start to drain into the pan and a split second later onto the floor. The oil was hot and I was not going to try and put the plug back in. By the time I could get another bucket all 5+ quarts were on the painted white floor. I lifted the bucket and found about 6 neatly drilled 3/8" holes in the bottom of the bucket. Boy was I mad! It took forever to clean the mess and get the floor back to the way I found it. I stewed about it all weekend waiting for Monday morning so I could find out who ruined my favorite bucket and then put it back with the drain buckets without marking it. Come to find out it was a technician from out of town who had worked on our aircraft and needed a strainer for some parts he had dropped in an oil bucket. I couldn't even yell at anyone!
I know from experience that all new Ford engine's are pre oiled, including the filter prior to start-up. Engineering say's that it reduce's possible bearing wear.
They fill with filtered clean oil from a reservoir at the plant. The oil that comes in barrels is not clean oil. I have not tested the oil in bottles like we buy off the shelf.
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