Hey,

I don't know if it helps or not, but my motor (351M) knocks real bad on startup after an oil change if I don't pre-fill the filter. My windstar does the same thing.

-Brents

 

http://cartalk.cars.com/Columns/Archive/1999/March/12.html
http://www.promustangs.com/maintain2.html
http://www.ttzd.com/tech/oilchangetech.html
http://autorepair.about.com/library/diy/bloil_change.htm

A quick net search resulted in more than one source recommending the filter be pre-charged.

 

I change my own oil in every vehicle or toy I own. I also fill the filter. I am a person to never take a chance when it isn't necessary. Doesn't take long to do, so why not?
This could start a whole new thread: They have that oil pressure device that pressurizes your engine oil before starting. Flip the switch and watch your oil pressure climb, then hit the key! Saw it on Two Guys Garage or one of those shows. Perfect for weekend rods, or for dry start on a newly assembled engine. When I have the money, I will buy one, just because of extra insurance... Just like the oil filter prelube!
Mark



https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gallery/displaythumbnail.php?&photoid=5362&.jpg
Ford started it; Ford will finish it!

 

I'm with DavidB on this one.

Filling filters is "Old School". Many of you may not like that term, but it's the way I see it.

Remember guys, clean oil comes up the "big hole" in the top of the filter. When you pre-fill them, you pour unfiltered, and possibly contaminated oil right down the middle of the "clean side" of the filter. This holds true for spin on fuel filters as well. Even more important to longevity of injectors on newer engines, and VERY important with Diesel engine injectors.

If you absolutely must fill your filters, fill from the little holes on the outside diameter of the filter.

As for start up wear, You all must have taken stock in the SLICK 50© ad campaign. Believe me, try and do a rod and main job after "You think all the oil has drained out". You'll see just how much oil stays in the crank journals and cylinder walls.

Just my 2¢

 

Contamination? If I had significant concerns about that I wouldn't put that oil in at all. I have a large crude oil refinery customer, the largest in the western hemisphere located in St Croix V.I.. All that oil but no lubricants, just a big fuel refinery. They purchase oil in 55 gallon drums by the flat bed truck load for their turbines, pumps, gear boxes ect. They test their oil and find less than 5% off spec. Usually it is not contaminated just maybe ISO 68 in a ISO 32 drum, clean but mislabled.
Good mechanical practice starts way before the oil goes in. Clean the filter area up. You don't want a big old bugger of dirt falling into your new filter as you strain to spin it on. Use a almost lint free rag, not the inside of an old fleece sweat shirt. Little things. Pre-fill the filter? I don't think that it makes a great difference but if a small difference is important to you then do it and feel OK about it.
I went to Wall-Mart and bought one of those plastic 15 quart oil drain containers. Where the pan section opening is I cut that small hole open to 1 1.8" then got a large plastic funnel from Ace Hardware and stuck in in the drain pan hole. I can slide it right under my 02 F250 PSD 4X4 up under the oil pan. The funnel and pan on my garage floor reach up to about 3 inches below the engine oil pan drain plug. I pull the plug and let the oil go right into the funnel and into the plastic container. Didn't spill a drop, all the splash is contained. The only oil missed was the oil that got on my fingers when I pulled the plug out. When that drains down I put the plug back in slide the funnel & pan set up under the oil filter, punch a hole in the lower side of the old filter and let the oil drain out ( while I eat a sandwich ) into the funnel. Then I clean up the filter area pull the empty old filter off and put a new one on. No mess. Fill as required. The enslosed plastic container has a spout that is just right to transfer the old oil to my waste barrel. I had contemplated getting one of those trick oil pan valves. This works so well I think that I won't need one.

 

>http://cartalk.cars.com/Columns/Archive/1999/March/12.html
>http://www.promustangs.com/maintain2.html
>http://www.ttzd.com/tech/oilchangetech.html
>http://autorepair.about.com/library/diy/bloil_change.htm
>
>A quick net search resulted in more than one source
>recommending the filter be pre-charged.

Thanks for the webb sites. They are cool.

 

OK, I recognize that you have some others that follow your line of thinking and I appreciate the opinions of others, but I do not feel challanged by the credentials of those on the sites shown. I hope that you continue to prefill your oil filters, because it makes you feel better. Show me that you get more miles driven from that engine than one where oil filters were not prefilled under similar driving conditions and I will accept your concept. I hope your car runs forever. I love seeing a vehicle with 200,000 or more miles on it. It makes me feel like a lot of people did a lot of things right.

 

get yourself an oil pump submerge it in oil and spin the shaft, you'll soon see it takes the oil pump a whole half a second to fill the oil filter, any worse than starting the engine in the morning when shes dry as a bone ? how many miles you oil filter fillers got on your engines ?

 

When I change my oil I do not fill the filter with oil, But however I do crank the engine over until it almost starts, and if it does start I then immediately shut it off. I repeat this process until I get oil pressure, Then I allow the engine to run. On my tractors I pull out the kill switch and crank the engine over.

'90 F-150 351 AOD "The General"
'78 F-250 460 C-6 "Old Green"
'93 Mustang 5.0 AOD
'88 Jeep Cherokee 4.0

 

consider this also on your super fords, they have a very slow action on the gauges a good mechanical gauge will show pressure b4 it even fires (if the motor has bearings in it that is) i know all of the pre 87 ford gauges rise slower than molasses not nearly as fast as the engine build oil pressure, they all rise the same speed too (oil, temp, fuel) i think the newer fords might have quicker gauges tho

 

Most instrument panel guages are thermal bimetal springs. It takes a while to warm them up. It is real good for a gas guage since if it didn't it would flop all over the place. Some of the newer guages are computer controlled.

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 11-Sep-02 AT 10:32 PM (EST)]I guess I'm in the "old school" camp.

Filling the filter as possible has got to be an advantage. While I'm sure there is a lot of oil left in the engine, its not pressurized until after the filter fills. I don't think anybody would argue that splash lubrication is as good as pressurized lubrication.

And, if it doesn't matter, why would the manufacturers bother putting a check valve in the oil filter?

As for contamination, how much could there be out of the bottle? Filling through the small holes seems like it would be difficult and slow. I may be wasting my time, but I'm not wasting much.

MrBSS

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 12-Sep-02 AT 06:18 PM (EST)]I may be wasting my time, but I'm not wasting much.


Your right thats why us non filter fillers cant argue, no defense

 

>I guess I'm in the "old school" camp.
>
>Filling the filter as possible has got to be an advantage.
>While I'm sure there is a lot of oil left in the engine, its
>not pressurized until after the filter fills. I don't think
>anybody would argue that splash lubrication is as good as
>pressurized lubrication.

I agree. I wasn't looking for an arguement. I was just stating my opinion in this discussion. I just don't feel that either way makes a difference.
>
>And, if it doesn't matter, why would the manufacturers
>bother putting a check valve in the oil filter?

This could start a new argument. Some would argue that check valves prevent oil from draining or siphoning back out of the filter, keeping it full of oil. You can also argue that a check valve prevents "dirty" oil from draining or siphoning back in to the engine from the "dirty" side of the filter. If the oil flow changes direction, you inherently push everything that has been filtered to that point, back in to the engine. Some valves are by-pass valves that allow the oil pump to bypass in the event of a completely clogged filter.
>
>As for contamination, how much could there be out of the
>bottle? Filling through the small holes seems like it would
>be difficult and slow. I may be wasting my time, but I'm
>not wasting much.

Contamination probably isn't really that big of an issue with oil. What I stated is what I feel really pertains to spin on fuel filters. I apologize for getting off topic.

 

Here's a tip, more like a reminder i guess. Just last night, my cousin came by complaining that her oil is leaking. Her boyfriend didn't lube the seal on the oil filter, so when he took the old filter off, the rubber seal stayed. He installed the new filter over the old rubber seal.
-so don't forget to oil the rubber seal!