Ok, I've been working all weekend and actually got alot done on my project trucks. But I have a pain in the ##### problem and I'm hoping someone might could help me. I have a 360 and in the process of switching the engine the positive cable to the back of the alt. was broken from the connector. No big deal right? Well when I went to take off the stud from the bolt in the alt. it wouldn't come off. The bolt is turning with the nut. There isn't enough of the stud to grab onto to keep it still. Can't grab underneath either, only the broken part of the clip to grab to but it's no help. The only way i can see to get the nut off is to open up the alt. and find the stud on the inside and hold it still. This seems kinda drastic and i have no idea about the internal workings of an alt. Seems like there is a high probability I'd screw it up pretty bad, but I don't know. Anyone else run into this problem or know if it would be safe to try and open up the alt. and hold the stud/bolt from the inside? You'd save my life if you have an answer.


Also, while I'm posting...
I have a 67 F100 and a 68 F100. I'm trying to figure out the rearend ratio's in them and what they were equipped with from the factory. I was going to use the VIN decoder in the Tech Articles section but it only goes back to 70. Can anyone tell me where I can decode my VIN and door info? Or can someone decode it for me?

The 67 is
F100ARB26289
115 M F100 481 A 09
05000 129 4000 72

The 68 is
F10YDD28486
115 6 F100 3381 F E9
O5000 172 3800 61


I'm especially interested in the rearends they have. They are very different. I believe the 67 has the Ford 9in rear with 3.70 ratio, from the look and the id plate numbers i took down
(WDM-K 3.70 7DB 302). But the rearend in the 68 has a completely different look. It doesn't have bolts on the front, shaped different and on the back there is a big drain plug with a big square/cube to turn it with. Is this a Dana rearend? If so how can I figure out the ratio it has?

Sorry to ramble on so long, like I said i've done alot this weekend and I'm dying to figure this stuff out. I may not know much but I have a passion for it. Thanks for any help guys.

 

JD, take a look here http://web.p3.net/~shoman/DECODE%7E1.HTM

hope this helps

John
jowilker
[link:www.ford-trucks.net/users/jowilker|Club FTE since 01 01] My FTE Page

[link:www.ford-trucks.net/users/jowilker/NCFTE.html|NC Truck Owners] NC Ford Truck owners group

66F100s Rule
In the cool still quite of night you can hear chevies rusting away.

 

Alternators are not that hard to take apart and reassemble, that being said I have overhauled hundreds in my life so it may just seem easy now
The trick is getting the brushes back into their holders and keeping them there while you reassemble the alternator. If you get a piece of stiff wire about six inches long you can use it to retain the brushes. There is a cutout in the brush holder to allow this wire to go thru and out the back of the alternator. After you reassemble the alternator pull the wire out and the brushes are bak where they belong.
Also very important scribe a mark across the halves of the alternator so that you put it back together with the halves lined up as they were before.
By the sounds of it you need a new stud intalled, any correct sized bolt will work. Put the bolt thru and tighten a nut and lockwasher onto it, make sure that the insulator is still in place. Then when you connect the wire just use another nut, that way you wont have to hold the bolt inside the alternator.
Have fun.

Sparky

 

or you could go to autozone and buy one for 26 bucks, or convert to a gm one wire alternator. thanks, matt

 

[font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON 05-Jun-01 AT 00:16 AM (EST)[/font][p]Hey, Jowilker, thanks for the link, it answered alot of questions for me. Also gave me a few new ones, but i guess that's the way it always is.

Thanks for the info on the alt. Still sounds complicated since I've never done it before, might try it, might not. As for now my problem is solved. Between me and my Dad we figured we'd bought an alt. from Autozone that had a lifetime warranty or something like that. So I took it in pretending it was the one under warranty and they replaced it no trouble. (happy day) But i went to take the alt. off my 68 and it did the same thing on me, so I may still need to take one apart.

And for whoever said put a GM alt. on here? Not to start a war of words, but I'd pull the truck with a rope tied to my genitals before I put any GM part on there. Death First!!

Thanks for the help guys, it's really appreciated. Does anyone happen to have an answer the my rearend id problem? I've been searching the archives but so far nothing.

 

To get the ratio on the rearend.

With the rear wheels jacked up. Make a chaulk mark on the floor and a corresponing mark on the tire . Now,crawl under and turn the driveshaft either direction and count the number of turns of the driveshaft that it takes to rotate the wheel one revolution or (Back to the chaulk mark on the floor).

The number of turns equals the gear ratio of the rear end.
3 1/2 turns = 3.50:1 >
2 3/4 turns= 2.75:1 or 2.79:1 and so on.
Hope this helps.

About this rear end. Are there any codes available at all?
A tag ?

Dennis

 

Well I couldn't find a tag and didn't really know where to look. I found it on my 67 on the front under one of the bolts/nuts. But when I crawled under my 68 it was a completely different set up. Didn't have any bolts on the front, different shape and all. I think there may have been bolts around the back, can't remember at the moment. Maybe there was a tag back there I didn't see, guess I'll look again. I know the drain plug was in the back and was a big one, with a cube on the end you could turn with maybe a 3/4 or a cresent wrench really. Do these descriptions sound familiar? I'm not very familiar with rearends. Trying to figure out if one is a Dana and the other a 9in or something else, I don't know. I know the door tag says the 68 came with 3.5 gears, but the max speed for the truck was like 65 going down hill. I was hoping to find that it had like 5 to 1 gears or something really low like that, then I could pick up speed with a rearend. So now, either it's a replacement rearend or there is something else slowing it down. It's got a 360 4spd, and it seems to have a good bit of power even though it's an old motor. So alot remains to be seen.

As for the jacking up and turning the driveline and all, it's a little hard for me. My trucks are out in the country and it's all sand and dirt, no shop. So I am crawling in sand all day to do that stuff. And it leaves me without a level surface much of anywhere. Oh well, I'll get them to pavement and find out for sure here one day.

Thanks for all replies and any other information anyone can render. This place rocks!
>To get the ratio on the
>rearend.
>
>With the rear wheels jacked up.
>Make a chaulk mark on
>the floor and a corresponing
>mark on the tire .
>Now,crawl under and turn the
>driveshaft either direction and count
>the number of turns of
>the driveshaft that it takes
>to rotate the wheel one
>revolution or (Back to the
>chaulk mark on the floor).
>
>
>The number of turns equals the
>gear ratio of the rear
>end.
>3 1/2 turns = 3.50:1 >
>2 3/4 turns= 2.75:1 or 2.79:1
>and so on.
>Hope this helps.
>
>About this rear end. Are there
>any codes available at all?
>
>A tag ?
>
>Dennis