Please disregard my earlier post as it was for an F series, here is one for a 1993-95 E series. I am posting so that we are on the same page.

I am rereading all of your posts and will get back to you soon.

 

You say in another post that you have received a schematic from the firm that did the conversion. Would it be possible to email the schematic to me or a scanned copy? If so I will email you my email address.

After reading all of the post I would say that either the injectors are bad or you have a bad relay that does the switching, but I would like to see the schematic.

 

Have sent you a private message with E-mail address.

Regarding the relais, these have been taken out of circuit, and the wiring for the injection has been made original again.
Also, the ford dealer technician confirmed that he can hear all of the injectors ticking, when starting.
In an earlier post I mentioned that I have confirmed that the injectors work, by directly applying 12 volt and a ground to an isolated injector, and see the fuel pressure drop. as long as the tension is applied .
Cor

 

Here is the private message I received from you:
Thanks for the efforts Bill

here is my E-mail address:

(Click Here to find out why email addresses are removed from posts.)

Cor

They do not let you put up email address in the PMs or Posts.

I know what you said about the injectors, I did print out and read all of your posts on this.

You maintain that you have good fuel pressure at the fuel rail and the injectors are working. The only thing between the fuel rail and the intake manifold is the injectors. So if the injectors are working, you have fuel at the fuel rail and it runs good on LPG then it has to too rich or too lean to run.

By the way I still am not sure where you jump the switch that you had 7 volts on.

To test fuel systems you ground pin #6 (with the key on) of the test connector (DLC) and they will run until you ungrounded it. This will test the power to the fuel pump relay, fuel pump relay, safety switch and the pumps with the engine not running. You also check the fuel pressure with pin #6 grounded and the key on and this also bypasses the PCM.

 

I had also to re-read my earlier post on this, but now understand what your question is about:
I said that I found 6 or 7 Volt on the inertia switch, which was an easy point to measure the power to the fuelpump. I thought there might be a voltage drop in that switch and for testing purposes shorted that. Later I figured out why:
During the 2 seconds prime after Key-on, there is the full 12 volt feed from the relay, but after that there is only 6-7 volt, which is not enough to run the pump.
During engine - run there is the full systemvoltage (+13 V) on this point.
I wondered where the 7 volt came from and why.
This is explained in the last schematic above:
Apperently, the #8 on the CPU, does provide 'some' tension on the pump; do not understand why, presumably to give a feedback to the CPU, that the pump is energised by the relay, that is all I can think of.

How to let the pump run contineously, I was aware of, but thanks.
One last item: I also discovered during the last year or so, that the fuel pressure is dependdant on the engine vacuum, that is why I sometimes measure a higher pressure then other times:
it makes sense actually: 35 psi to about 45 psi, depending whether vacuum is applied or not; so also the fuelpressure regulator works, and actually modulates.
Cor

 

Hi all,

in case anyone is interested in why Cor's E150 refused to start on gas/fuel - as the new owner of the car, we noticed that the air filter box had exploded at some point in time (backfire of LPG). Figuring that this explosion would have destroyed the MAP sensor, we pulled the connector from the MAP sensor (forcing the ECU to go into emergency/drive-home mode) - engine started on gas/petrol straightaway. A new MAP sensor ensured that the car is happy to start on either LPG or gas/petrol.

 

Hi Ron,

Good to see you here too. [again?]
Yes, you figured that out more than 2 years ago, something I still appreciate!
And why the Ford dealer, and another van specialist in the Netherlands did not figure this out still remains a mystery.
Also, as you know, that the Canadian engineer employed by the Ford dealer 'phoned 3x in my presence with the Ford USA help-desk, and still got nowhere.
They knew the MAP sensor gave a wrong reading, but all concerned maintained that this would NOT be the reason why the engine would not run on gas.
You knew better, and got it to run
Chapeau!
Is the van stil fine, and serving you well?

Cor

PS: forgotten password for your ''DrRon'' login??

 

Hi Cor,

Yeah - two primary inputs for the ECU (from the air perspective) are the measurement units (MAP, MAF), and the TPS - when they give bad input, the computer is programmed to assume that the engine is in danger, and shuts down. Oddly (well...) enough, when you take away all input by disconnecting the MAP/MAF, the computer goes into limp-home mode, allowing you to drive to a garage. When we got the van, I bought a book about the Ford ECU, and it described the ECU programming. The "pull-the-connector" has served us another time on a BMW which refused to run - the MAF (the little wire) had melted, giving the ECU an odd input - pulling the connector put the ECU in limp-home mode, so the car started again.

The van still serves us well - fixed the leak from the crankshaft seal, got all the fluids renewed (tranny, engine, final drive) new wheel bearing in front, alignment fixed - the only thing not working now is the left front electric window (mechanism is shot), and we should probably tune the TW cable from the accelerator to the tranny: kick-down does not always produce a downshift.

One thing we had to do: when towing a racecar, and heading for the hills (Spa), it runs hot pretty quickly. We installed an auxiliary e-fan with a manual switch, but this brings only a marginal improvement. Flushing the system and putting in new coolant, does not appear to help either - don't really want to revise the entire cooling system by putting in an auxiliary radiator somewhere (not a lot of room in the engine bay), so I guess we're stuck with the situation. Anyone else have the van running hot when towing? (the van has the oil cooler for the tranny)?

PS yeah, the DrRon login did not work anymore....

Econoline E150 1993 - 302 LPG - AOD