New Crane Cams Ignition System
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From: Mobile, Alabama
New Crane Cams Ignition System
I've just about completed installing the new Crane Cams electronic distributor, Hi-6 CD ignition and LX 92 coil in my 1980 F-350 4x4 400 auto, totally eliminating the entire Duraspark ignition. The only snag I've encountered is with the stock 1.1 ohm resistor wire providing current to the ignition in the run position. The Crane ignition needs full current in the run position so somehow the 1.1 ohm resistor wire to the ignition needs to be bypassed or eliminated with a full current wire.
According to my 1980 wiring diagram, there are TWO wires leading from the run position at the ignition switch going to the ignition, one is the 1.1 ohm resistor wire and the other is a non-resistor wire and goes directly to the Duraspark ignition module. My diagram shows that wire as W/LB H. Is it possible to cut the resistor wire where it is spliced to the start wire near the ignition module and then splice the W/LB H non-resistor wire coming from the run position to the start wire and then connect the two to the Crane ignition?
According to my 1980 wiring diagram, there are TWO wires leading from the run position at the ignition switch going to the ignition, one is the 1.1 ohm resistor wire and the other is a non-resistor wire and goes directly to the Duraspark ignition module. My diagram shows that wire as W/LB H. Is it possible to cut the resistor wire where it is spliced to the start wire near the ignition module and then splice the W/LB H non-resistor wire coming from the run position to the start wire and then connect the two to the Crane ignition?
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I glad to see somone put a awsome system in place of that junk ford put in. I cut the two plugs on my duraspark box and connected the plug with two wires, white and red to the red remote wire on the crane box, because the white wire is on in the start position and the red is on in the run position. don't worry about the red wire having lower voltage because the box draws the current thru the 10 gauge black and red wires not the small trigger wires. hope this helps. Jason
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Joined: Apr 2005
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From: Mobile, Alabama
Originally Posted by Jay87460
I glad to see somone put a awsome system in place of that junk ford put in. I cut the two plugs on my duraspark box and connected the plug with two wires, white and red to the red remote wire on the crane box, because the white wire is on in the start position and the red is on in the run position. don't worry about the red wire having lower voltage because the box draws the current thru the 10 gauge black and red wires not the small trigger wires. hope this helps. Jason
I've discussed the wiring hookup with the tech support at Crane, and according to them, I should not connect to the 1.1 ohm resistance run wire. Still, you've done it and if you could be more specific as to your wiring connections, I will understand exactly what you've done. I'm not ecactly sure what you mean when you say you cut the two plugs on your Duraspark box and connected the plug (what plug?) with the red and white wires.
Danlee also suggested that I do the following to bypass the stock start/run wire to the coil + that has 1.1 ohm resistance in the run position: Just connect the R/LG wire (hot at start) that is no longer connected to the throttle positioner - 2150 and stock intake has been replaced by a 2171 Edelbrock and 4BB carb - to the W/LB H wire (connects to red on the Duraspark module and has full current in run position) and connect the two spliced wires to the Crane module trigger connector.
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