Ok so I just rewired my '75 F250 with a 360 FE using an EZ Wiring harness. The engine will fire when I crank it but as soon as I let off of the starter, it will die. The resistor wire that originally went from the ignition switch to the coil had been cut and spliced by a previous owner so I decided to eliminate it. I bought a 1.4 ohm ballast resistor and wired it in series with the new wire that goes from the switch to the coil. There is voltage getting to the coil so I don't understand why is won't run. I took out the ballast resistor and it started. So I bought a 0.7 Ohm resistor to try. It won't run with this one either and almost as soon as I turn the key, it gets super red hot. Now every time I take out the resistor to try, it instantly blows the 30A fuse for the coil. Does anyone know what is wrong???

 

Maybe this will help?

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post14880906

 

Noticed you have two posts for similar problems.

The resistor wire should only provide power to the coil. The I terminal at the starter relay provides full voltage to aid in starting.

You should be able to get a replacement resistor wire, and I know NAPA has them. Perhaps NumberDummy will provide a Ford Part Number.

Did your EZ wiring come with a wire diagram or schematic? Does it plug into the stock Ford Harness?

FYI, the stock Ford Harness provides Two ignition sources. Just checked the diagrams and one is connected to START (also provides power to the starter relay) and Ignition ON on one plug, C-321 Brown (3 way but two wires). The Coil gets power from C-220 Gray (4 way plastic plug) and the wire is Red with Green Strip. The other two wires on C-220 is coolant temp and Oil light or gauge.

Hope this helps!

Maybe report back the voltage at the coil with ignition on once you've sorted out some problems?

 

thanks for the replies guys. I ran the tests that 77&79F250 suggested and they all checked out. But then I decided to do more tests on the ballast resistors I had bought.
The two ballast resistors from O'Reilly read 1.4 ohms and 0.7 ohms on the multimeter but I discovered that only about 0.17 and 0.3 volts are actually getting to the coil after going through the resistors, which I don't understand why... but I am no electrical expert. The only thing I can think of is maybe as soon as I turn the key, the resistor heats up and the resistance gets much higher??
But I appreciate the advice to check NAPA for the resistor wire. I had checked O'Reilly and they couldn't get it so I assumed nobody could. But NAPA indeed could get them so I ordered one. I am heading on vacation this week but when I get back I will install it and hopefully solve the problem. I will be sure to post the results!