Pertronix Coil / Resistor Wire
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Junior User
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Pertronix Coil / Resistor Wire
74 F100, 302
Replaced points with the Pertronix Ignitor HEI. Works well.
I want to replace the coil next with the Pertronix coil.
If I go this route, will I need to replace the pink resistor wire with a non-resistor wire? Or will the coil function well with the current (i.e. stock with standard points ignition) wiring?
Thank You!
Replaced points with the Pertronix Ignitor HEI. Works well.
I want to replace the coil next with the Pertronix coil.
If I go this route, will I need to replace the pink resistor wire with a non-resistor wire? Or will the coil function well with the current (i.e. stock with standard points ignition) wiring?
Thank You!
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Junior User
Joined: Aug 2014
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Just updating . . .
From what I've gathered, the Ignitor II/III require a true 12v, which my truck with a resistor wire will not give. The Ignitor I works with <12v. To get 12v you'd need to run a new wire from the ignition switch (i.e. bypassing the pink resistor wire with a non-resistor wire).
Pertronix sells a relay which allows you to use the resistor wire to control a true 12v from the battery or another source: Ignition Power Relay
A bit pricey though for a relay + wire. I'm debating if I'm going to gain anything bypassing the resistor wire with a mostly stock 302 with Ignitor HEI + Pertronix coil.
From what I've gathered, the Ignitor II/III require a true 12v, which my truck with a resistor wire will not give. The Ignitor I works with <12v. To get 12v you'd need to run a new wire from the ignition switch (i.e. bypassing the pink resistor wire with a non-resistor wire).
Pertronix sells a relay which allows you to use the resistor wire to control a true 12v from the battery or another source: Ignition Power Relay
A bit pricey though for a relay + wire. I'm debating if I'm going to gain anything bypassing the resistor wire with a mostly stock 302 with Ignitor HEI + Pertronix coil.
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 14,333
Likes: 247
From: Stanley, VA
To the OP, why ask here? Go directly to Pertronix and get the correct info.
They have a tech line just for this.
PerTronix, Inc.
440 East Arrow Highway
San Dimas, CA 91773
Phone: (909) 547-9058
Fax: (909) 599-6424
Contact Tech
Just so you know, bypassing the resistor wire isn't all that difficult. The hardest part is getting up under the dash to get to it.
They have a tech line just for this.
PerTronix, Inc.
440 East Arrow Highway
San Dimas, CA 91773
Phone: (909) 547-9058
Fax: (909) 599-6424
Contact Tech
Just so you know, bypassing the resistor wire isn't all that difficult. The hardest part is getting up under the dash to get to it.
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Truthfully? I tend to put my trust in the people that use the stuff, rather than those that watched a training video.
I'm not passing judgement on Pertronix as I have 0 reason to doubt their capabilities - however, it means more to me if someone on this forum said "I've run the coil both ways (with and without the resistor wire) and did not detect an appreciable difference"
I may not get that answer, but isn't that what these forums are for?
I'm not passing judgement on Pertronix as I have 0 reason to doubt their capabilities - however, it means more to me if someone on this forum said "I've run the coil both ways (with and without the resistor wire) and did not detect an appreciable difference"
I may not get that answer, but isn't that what these forums are for?
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
What the deal is, a Flamethrower coil for example, already has 1.5 ohms resistance, it's not necessary nor desirable to keep the "pink wire" in the loop. Seems to me everytime I read about problems, people are not deleting the pink wire, and/or have poor grounds and connections. Both the Ignitor and the Flamethrower seem to like full battery output juice. Open up the spark plug gap to about .045 to take advantage of the increased secondary voltage. Everything in the ignition system needs to be in good shape to avoid arcing, though - cap and wires, clean, tight grounds and connections. Remember this arrangement increases voltage from around 20k to 45k volts. Use heavy gauge (not "bell wire") wire to replace the pink wire.
Pick up a tube of Permatex dialectric grease and stuff the boots at the spark plugs, dist. cap and coil. You should notice improved starting, smoother idle and better all around driveabilty with this setup.
Pick up a tube of Permatex dialectric grease and stuff the boots at the spark plugs, dist. cap and coil. You should notice improved starting, smoother idle and better all around driveabilty with this setup.
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Tedster9-
Good info - thank you.
I'll tackle this with the intention of removing the resistor wire.
Good info - thank you.
I'll tackle this with the intention of removing the resistor wire.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
Btw, have also heard some people say that the Pertronix doesn't play well with the old generator systems. Something about "dirty power" or somesuch. Have not had any trouble at all with the stock 30 amp setup for several thousands of miles, offroad, highway, mountains and deserts, brutal Midwest winter, etc. Works for me anyway.
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Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2009
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From: Stanley, VA
The pink resistor wire itself doesn't connect to the ignition switch. Under the dash, in the main wiring harness, the resistor wire is spliced into a conventional wire.
In the picture the pink wire goes into a rubber covered splice joint and comes out as a red w/ yellow trace conventional copper wire.
In the picture the pink wire goes into a rubber covered splice joint and comes out as a red w/ yellow trace conventional copper wire.
Junior User
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 81
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The pink resistor wire itself doesn't connect to the ignition switch. Under the dash, in the main wiring harness, the resistor wire is spliced into a conventional wire.
In the picture the pink wire goes into a rubber covered splice joint and comes out as a red w/ yellow trace conventional copper wire.
In the picture the pink wire goes into a rubber covered splice joint and comes out as a red w/ yellow trace conventional copper wire.
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 14,333
Likes: 247
From: Stanley, VA
The resistor wire doesn't go all the way to the coil. The wiring harness that goes to the coil plugs into the main harness at the firewall. The resistor wire ends at the plug.
MSEE
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 10,386
Likes: 35
From: Austin, TX
The Pertronix module itself requires a full hot-in-RUN and START. This is not available under the hood on Fords and must be taken upstream of the ballast resistor. The RED with YELLOW stripe wire you find is appropriate for the module, which unlike the coil, draws very little current. It is upstream of the ballast resistor and also services the dash lights.
To use, or not to use, the ballast resistor depends on the coil. The stock coil, and some applications of various Flame Thrower coils require the ballast resistor. The Pertronix documentation specifies whether or not to use the ballast resistor (even on the box I believe). Note that this is independent of what the Pertronix module itself requires, however, maybe you're not asking about the module.
To use, or not to use, the ballast resistor depends on the coil. The stock coil, and some applications of various Flame Thrower coils require the ballast resistor. The Pertronix documentation specifies whether or not to use the ballast resistor (even on the box I believe). Note that this is independent of what the Pertronix module itself requires, however, maybe you're not asking about the module.
Junior User
Joined: Aug 2012
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If it doesn't go all the way to coil then where does it end up once its spliced into the red w/yellow wire?where does it end up at?
Junior User
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 81
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To the OP, why ask here? Go directly to Pertronix and get the correct info.
They have a tech line just for this.
PerTronix, Inc.
440 East Arrow Highway
San Dimas, CA 91773
Phone: (909) 547-9058
Fax: (909) 599-6424
Contact Tech
Just so you know, bypassing the resistor wire isn't all that difficult. The hardest part is getting up under the dash to get to it.
They have a tech line just for this.
PerTronix, Inc.
440 East Arrow Highway
San Dimas, CA 91773
Phone: (909) 547-9058
Fax: (909) 599-6424
Contact Tech
Just so you know, bypassing the resistor wire isn't all that difficult. The hardest part is getting up under the dash to get to it.