Timing Chain Life Span
Thread Starter
|
Junior User
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 74
Likes: 0
From: Saint John, New Brunswick
Timing Chain Life Span
Hey all,
I am running a 93 F150 2wd with the 302. It is about to pass 160,000 miles and there has been a slow leak at the top of the timing cover. Before I take an afternoon and tear into it should I have a new Timing chain set ready to throw in while I am at it? Thanks In advance.
I am running a 93 F150 2wd with the 302. It is about to pass 160,000 miles and there has been a slow leak at the top of the timing cover. Before I take an afternoon and tear into it should I have a new Timing chain set ready to throw in while I am at it? Thanks In advance.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 1,529
Likes: 35
From: Kansas
Originally Posted by Motoshrump
Hey all,
I am running a 93 F150 2wd with the 302. It is about to pass 160,000 miles and there has been a slow leak at the top of the timing cover. Before I take an afternoon and tear into it should I have a new Timing chain set ready to throw in while I am at it? Thanks In advance.
I am running a 93 F150 2wd with the 302. It is about to pass 160,000 miles and there has been a slow leak at the top of the timing cover. Before I take an afternoon and tear into it should I have a new Timing chain set ready to throw in while I am at it? Thanks In advance.
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 908
Likes: 0
From: Lindsborg, KS
Considering it has that many miles, i would say htat chain is sloppy so by all means replace it. I have a good example of a high mileage engine compared to a low mileage one. I would suggest a double roller, not that much more, plus they are better then the stock ones, but that is your choice.
More Turbo
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 690
Likes: 0
From: Sweden
Oh yeah you should replace it! Timing chain slack really hurts engine performance. I know. Mine sounded and ran a LOT better after I replaced it!
You should get a new set of water pump bolts, and be prepared for the possibility that you may end up with one of the old rusted bolts broken off in the engine block.
You will need to pull the harmonic balancer, and you MUST use a harmonic balancer puller designed for the Ford. A normal pulley puller will only tear the outer part of the balancer right off.
Consider if you want to replace the water pump at this time, since you'll need to take it off anyways.
You should get a new set of water pump bolts, and be prepared for the possibility that you may end up with one of the old rusted bolts broken off in the engine block.
You will need to pull the harmonic balancer, and you MUST use a harmonic balancer puller designed for the Ford. A normal pulley puller will only tear the outer part of the balancer right off.
Consider if you want to replace the water pump at this time, since you'll need to take it off anyways.
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,016
Likes: 0
From: Lynden, WA.
Whoa Nelly !!!
Take a good look. This ain't no Chevy. Pulling the timing cover off'n a Windsor is not an easy task unless you pull the oil pan first. -that is, if'n you don't want more leaks later. Don't forget about a new crank seal in the cover.
Now, if you still decide to do this, If I were to pull a timing cover from a 160,000 mile engine, You bet! I'd replace the timing chain AND gears.
Now, if'n I were to go to all the trouble of pulling the oil pan on a 160.000 mile engine, I'd change the oil pump too.
Personally, to me it's easier to pull the engine out and do these two tasks than it is to do them in the rig. -(just rebuilt a 351w in a 91 Bronco)
But that's just me.
-Steve
Now, if you still decide to do this, If I were to pull a timing cover from a 160,000 mile engine, You bet! I'd replace the timing chain AND gears.
Now, if'n I were to go to all the trouble of pulling the oil pan on a 160.000 mile engine, I'd change the oil pump too.
Personally, to me it's easier to pull the engine out and do these two tasks than it is to do them in the rig. -(just rebuilt a 351w in a 91 Bronco)
But that's just me.
-Steve
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 9,557
Likes: 44
From: Concord, NC
You don't have to drop the oil pan to change timing chain and timing cover gaskets - I've done it (no leaks either). It would have been so much more time consuming and a lot more work to pull the engine to change the timing chain. By the time you went to all the trouble of pulling a 160000 mile engine, you may as well forget all the gaskets and install a rebuilt engine... Just replace the timing chain and timing cover/water pump gaskets and keep on truckin'.
I got a timing chain gasket kit from NAPA when I got the new chain, which included a new front seal, all timing cover gaskets, new cork gaskets to replace the forward most part of the oil pan gasket, water pump gaskets, and a little RTV to seal the corners where the cover meets the oil pan. No leaks, and this was 20000 miles ago or more. The timing set is around 20 bucks for the basic NAPA replacement part. It has steel gears as opposed to the stock nylon teeth. Well worth the money for the time and effort of taking off the timing cover a second time should you have to replace the chain/gears later.
I got a timing chain gasket kit from NAPA when I got the new chain, which included a new front seal, all timing cover gaskets, new cork gaskets to replace the forward most part of the oil pan gasket, water pump gaskets, and a little RTV to seal the corners where the cover meets the oil pan. No leaks, and this was 20000 miles ago or more. The timing set is around 20 bucks for the basic NAPA replacement part. It has steel gears as opposed to the stock nylon teeth. Well worth the money for the time and effort of taking off the timing cover a second time should you have to replace the chain/gears later.
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,016
Likes: 0
From: Lynden, WA.
OK, Yes there is a timing cover gasket set just for this. Thanks for the reminder..
With the little pieces of cork gasket that you need to put in the front sections of the pan, and a new half moon gasket. But personally I'd never recommend this to a person that's never done it at all.
There's more chance for a leak if one gets in the slightest hurry. The key is to be able to get to and see everything. You know, pulling the radiator? and fan shroud and pretty much the whole front of the engine ie; alternator/powersteering/AC/Smog pump bracketry. Pully's, Harmonic balancer... and cleaning all gasket surfaces.
I have seen these replacements leak. (even from experienced mechanics) Not to mention the possibility to drop something in the pan since there's an exposed opening. Careful, thoroughness, and patience are the operative words. Letting your sealant set to a gooey state before attempting to reassemble is paramount. Even if you put the gasket pieces on -sealant on the underside of the half moon pan piece and the two cork pieces, along with having already tacked the timing cover gasket to the block and let them set over night. This really helps to be sure nothing's going to move when you assemble the rest of the parts.
There's more chance for a leak if one gets in the slightest hurry. The key is to be able to get to and see everything. You know, pulling the radiator? and fan shroud and pretty much the whole front of the engine ie; alternator/powersteering/AC/Smog pump bracketry. Pully's, Harmonic balancer... and cleaning all gasket surfaces.
I have seen these replacements leak. (even from experienced mechanics) Not to mention the possibility to drop something in the pan since there's an exposed opening. Careful, thoroughness, and patience are the operative words. Letting your sealant set to a gooey state before attempting to reassemble is paramount. Even if you put the gasket pieces on -sealant on the underside of the half moon pan piece and the two cork pieces, along with having already tacked the timing cover gasket to the block and let them set over night. This really helps to be sure nothing's going to move when you assemble the rest of the parts.
Trending Topics
More Turbo
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 690
Likes: 0
From: Sweden
I did the chain on my 302 and didn't drop the oil pan. I don't see the problem. I didn't remove the radiator either ('87 E150 van) and didn't have a big access problem. We had a water pump bolt break off too and had to use a Dremel and carbide cutter bit to route it out and then use an extractor to clear the debris. No problem with the radiator in the way.
Dropping crap into the oil pan IS a problem, you want to drain the oil first then jam a big rag over the part of the oil pan that juts out under the TC cover. I didn't do that early on and the first thing that happened was a chunk of gasket I was scraping went down there. Took awhile but I got it out.
Dropping crap into the oil pan IS a problem, you want to drain the oil first then jam a big rag over the part of the oil pan that juts out under the TC cover. I didn't do that early on and the first thing that happened was a chunk of gasket I was scraping went down there. Took awhile but I got it out.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 9,557
Likes: 44
From: Concord, NC
As long as you take your time, the gasket kit with the small cork pieces will work fine. As you said, don't rush it.
I did take out the radiator when I replaced the timing set on my truck, just for a little extra breathing room. The smog pump and alternator brackets can stay, only the A/C and power steering bracket has to come off, unless they changed that since 87.
I did take out the radiator when I replaced the timing set on my truck, just for a little extra breathing room. The smog pump and alternator brackets can stay, only the A/C and power steering bracket has to come off, unless they changed that since 87.
Thread Starter
|
Junior User
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 74
Likes: 0
From: Saint John, New Brunswick
Sorry about the late reply, sounds like a plan then, I appreciate all the feedback. The double row chain seems to be the way to go since I have the tendancy to replace whatever I take off with a component equal to or better than the stock one. Thanks again
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
LeoJr
Explorer, Sport Trac, Mountaineer & Aviator
3
Feb 13, 2018 10:32 PM
Big-worm
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
5
Jan 28, 2011 08:08 PM
