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I'm getting ready just to order a rebuilt, but wondered if the rebuild kits are worth the trouble. I'm assuming they only include seals, bushings, etc. and if the worm gear/block is worn then you're SOL. Does anybody know about this?
Since you have to remove your unit you might want to take it apart and look at the gears, a seal kit is a lot cheeper than a rebuilt box. They are not that difficult to rebuild but keep an eye on all the small bearings that fall out during the teardown.
I'm getting ready just to order a rebuilt, but wondered if the rebuild kits are worth the trouble. I'm assuming they only include seals, bushings, etc. and if the worm gear/block is worn then you're SOL. Does anybody know about this?
ajsmolik, What do you mean by rebuild??
If it is leaking fluid, you can put seals in for $10-12.00 with it in the truck. I would recomend that you don't open it up (big can of worms). The bottom has a double seal and one on the top.
Well, I'll spare you the whole story - but I've wound up replacing the pump and hoses to try to diagnose my steering problem. I've decided the box needs repaired or replaced, but I haven't opened it yet.
I believe that either the worm gear, block, or ***** are bad - but I've never had one apart before.
Are these parts that I can get and do myself? Is it possible that there's just a piece of trash plugging it up? The problem I have is power only to the left, but not to the right.
Before you do any more, Lift the front wheels off the ground and turn the steering wheel dock to dock at least 20 times. You may have some air in there and that should clear it.
Should that not work then try something different.
I've gone thru both the Bendix and Ford box, easy and simple inside, better to know condition of the gear face and bushings for wear. What's the use resealing when the box is shot inside besides not correcting the problem and leaking again. Both boxes will self purge air out of the system after a few blocks driving and turning against both steering stops.
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