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Steering box rebuild

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Old Jun 27, 2015 | 09:57 PM
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Steering box rebuild

I have a 1974 F250 with power steering(standard). I'm not sure what model it is. I'm planning on rebuilding it since a rebuilt one is $300. If anyone has rebuilt one any advice is apritiated. Also if anyone knows of a manual or parts blowup diagram that would be great. Thanks.
 
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Old Jun 28, 2015 | 12:34 AM
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Originally Posted by BBpwer
I have a 1974 F250 with power steering(standard). I'm not sure what model it is. I'm planning on rebuilding it since a rebuilt one is $300. If anyone has rebuilt one any advice is apritiated. Also if anyone knows of a manual or parts blowup diagram that would be great. Thanks.
You're talking 2WD correct?
Do yourself a favor, Redhead, RedHead Steering Gears | Expert Steering Gear Rebuild & Remanufacture
They are competitive with the local chain's "spray & pray" rebuilds. They also correct some design flaws that Ford incorporated into the design.
Are you considering rebuilding because of wear or because of leaks? If it's because of wear, you won't be able to rebuild it because hard parts haven't been available for these boxes for years. Redhead actually remachines and builds up worn parts in their shop.
If its because of leaks, seal kits are still available and they can be resealed without disassembly. If you do reseal it, under no circumstances remove the four bolts that hold the input shaft in place. If you do, you'll regret it in very short order.
Search the first "sticky" at the begining of the forum, here's a link to the post that explains how to replace the seals without taking the box apart https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post14696828.
Click on the following link to see an exploded diagram of the steering box.
 
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Old Jun 28, 2015 | 02:06 AM
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Originally Posted by mikeo0o0o0
You're talking 2WD correct?
Do yourself a favor, Redhead, RedHead Steering Gears | Expert Steering Gear Rebuild & Remanufacture
They are competitive with the local chain's "spray & pray" rebuilds. They also correct some design flaws that Ford incorporated into the design.
Are you considering rebuilding because of wear or because of leaks? If it's because of wear, you won't be able to rebuild it because hard parts haven't been available for these boxes for years. Redhead actually remachines and builds up worn parts in their shop.
If its because of leaks, seal kits are still available and they can be resealed without disassembly. If you do reseal it, under no circumstances remove the four bolts that hold the input shaft in place. If you do, you'll regret it in very short order.
Search the first "sticky" at the begining of the forum, here's a link to the post that explains how to replace the seals without taking the box apart https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post14696828.
Click on the following link to see an exploded diagram of the steering box.

Well...S**T one of the first things I did was remove those four bolts and a bunch of ball bearings came out. But everything that I could see looks good, how do I get that piece back in? Yes it is 2wd trailer special with a 460 and C6. Thanks for the input.
 
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Old Jun 28, 2015 | 08:51 AM
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Originally Posted by BBpwer
Well...S**T one of the first things I did was remove those four bolts and a bunch of ball bearings came out. But everything that I could see looks good, how do I get that piece back in? Yes it is 2wd trailer special with a 460 and C6. Thanks for the input.
That's the exact reason why you shouldn't remove the valve assy. If you don't get the ***** (and everything else) back in correctly, the steering box can lock up at the most inconvenient time, in the middle of a turn.
You've gone this far, you really need to get a copy of the Ford shop manual, NOT one of the aftermarket ones, Chilton, Haynes, etc. They won't go into the detail you need to assemble the box. In the factory manual, reassembly covers 5 1/2 pages of instructions and illustrations.
I'll tell you what it says about getting the ***** back in, but like I said, you really need to get a copy so you can actually see what they're talking about.
From the manual ('77 shop manual, page 13-41-3)
Under "Assembly", starting at step six:
6) Place the piston on the bench with the ball guide facing up. Insert the worm shaft into the piston so that the first groove is in line with the hole nearest the center of the piston (fig. 5)
7) Place the ball guide in the piston and insert 27 to 29 *****, (depending on the piston design) in the ball guide (fig. 3) while turning the worm in a clockwise direction as viewed from the input end of the shaft. If all of the ***** have not been fed into the guide upon reaching the right stop, rotate the input shaft back and forth and install the remaining *****. After the ***** are installed, do not rotate the input shaft or piston more than three and one-half turns from the right stop or the ***** will fall out of the circuit.
8) Secure the guides in the ball nut with the clamp (fig. 5)

Hope this helps you, good luck.
 
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Old Jun 28, 2015 | 03:19 PM
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I believe I watched a video on youtube on how to reassemble it. I did just a seal kit on my with a future plan of buying a redhead.
 
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Old Jun 28, 2015 | 03:30 PM
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Try this one:
 
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Old Jun 29, 2015 | 01:09 PM
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Originally Posted by mikeo0o0o0
That's the exact reason why you shouldn't remove the valve assy. If you don't get the ***** (and everything else) back in correctly, the steering box can lock up at the most inconvenient time, in the middle of a turn.
You've gone this far, you really need to get a copy of the Ford shop manual, NOT one of the aftermarket ones, Chilton, Haynes, etc. They won't go into the detail you need to assemble the box. In the factory manual, reassembly covers 5 1/2 pages of instructions and illustrations.
I'll tell you what it says about getting the ***** back in, but like I said, you really need to get a copy so you can actually see what they're talking about.
From the manual ('77 shop manual, page 13-41-3)
Under "Assembly", starting at step six:
6) Place the piston on the bench with the ball guide facing up. Insert the worm shaft into the piston so that the first groove is in line with the hole nearest the center of the piston (fig. 5)
7) Place the ball guide in the piston and insert 27 to 29 *****, (depending on the piston design) in the ball guide (fig. 3) while turning the worm in a clockwise direction as viewed from the input end of the shaft. If all of the ***** have not been fed into the guide upon reaching the right stop, rotate the input shaft back and forth and install the remaining *****. After the ***** are installed, do not rotate the input shaft or piston more than three and one-half turns from the right stop or the ***** will fall out of the circuit.
8) Secure the guides in the ball nut with the clamp (fig. 5)

Hope this helps you, good luck.

Ok...very helpful, thank you we're could i go about getting a ford manual...eBay?
 
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Old Jun 29, 2015 | 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by mikeo0o0o0
Thank you for sharing that, that cleared thing up on what mikeo0o0o0 was explaining. If anyone else has any knowledge with this please share. Thanks.
 
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Old Jun 29, 2015 | 01:19 PM
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eBay is probably your best bet for a set of factory service manuals. You can usually find original printed hard-copies, and there are also electronic versions on CD.
 
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Old Jun 30, 2015 | 02:17 AM
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Originally Posted by bkaul
eBay is probably your best bet for a set of factory service manuals. You can usually find original printed hard-copies, and there are also electronic versions on CD.
Got an original set of 4 shop manuals for 1974 trucks comes with a chassis book, engine book, electrical and body book, and a predelivery and maintanence book. Very happy to find these hopefully there in decent condition.
 
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