boost leak?
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 7,413
Likes: 1
From: Columbia, MO
That black thing is a rubber reducer. Most commonly used to adapt sewer pipes from the old type ceramic to the new type PVC. Then there's a pvc cap in the end of it with an air fitting screwed into it. It looks like cookies goes from 2" at the PVC to 4" (for the upgraded turbo, I think). I may be wrong, but I'd imagine you'd clamp it on at the turbo inlet where the air cleaner hose clamps onto the turbo. For a stock turbo, you'd want a 3" ID (inside diameter) instead of 4" to clamp onto the turbo.
Cookie, correct me if I'm way off base here. It's been known to happen. But usually only about once a year.
Cookie, correct me if I'm way off base here. It's been known to happen. But usually only about once a year.
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 13,653
Likes: 6
From: Cabot, Arkansas
You are right on the money jt. The reducer is an RV sewer pipe adapter with the clamps built into it. The cap is a 2" PVC end cap that I drilled a hole in, and threaded in the ball valve and air chuck.
Everything is off the shelf Tractor Supply Company stuff, but is justa as easily found at Home Depot, Lowes, local hardware store.....whatever.
Mine will work the same for everyone as the CCV sleeve is the place I clamp it on. Just remove the intake hose in front of the CCV and put the pressure adapter on there.
As a side, my turbo doesn't spin with the adapter in place, so I can leave it pressurized as long as I like, but I have been told by a couple of people that their turbo did spin wth the load applied. In that event you would want to limit the on time of the air load to 15-20 seconds as there is no oil pressure at the bearing journals with the engine of. Definitely would not want to spin it dry looking for a leak, but that should not be too much of a concern as leaks are evident amost instantly.
Everything is off the shelf Tractor Supply Company stuff, but is justa as easily found at Home Depot, Lowes, local hardware store.....whatever.
Mine will work the same for everyone as the CCV sleeve is the place I clamp it on. Just remove the intake hose in front of the CCV and put the pressure adapter on there.
As a side, my turbo doesn't spin with the adapter in place, so I can leave it pressurized as long as I like, but I have been told by a couple of people that their turbo did spin wth the load applied. In that event you would want to limit the on time of the air load to 15-20 seconds as there is no oil pressure at the bearing journals with the engine of. Definitely would not want to spin it dry looking for a leak, but that should not be too much of a concern as leaks are evident amost instantly.
New User
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
I saw one of the leak testers on a commercial site and built one similar. I welded a plate to the end of a piece of 4" exhaust with a quick connect in the plate. I don't have the shut off valve. The one on the commercial site warned not to exceed something like 20psi and not to leave it pressurized over something like 30 seconds. Said the wheel is turning and not getting oil. By only keeping pressurized for 30 sec. makes it hard to soap hoses. How can you tell if the wheel is turning?
Thanks
Thanks
Last edited by pt4557; Jan 22, 2006 at 09:34 AM.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 25,090
Likes: 1,112
From: Rio Rico, AZ.
What I would suggest is to start the truck for 30 seconds, cold engine to charge the turbo bearings with some fresh oil and nice and thick so it won't run out right away. That will leave enough oil on the bearing surfaces for several minutes of air pressure for diagnostic purposes. There is NO WAY that a simple air hose is going to have enough volume to spin the turbo up as fast as the engine does, so I wouldn't ever worry about overtaxing the turbo while you are looking for leaks. It might rotate, but too slowly to cause any harm.
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SprintRacer26
1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel
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Jan 12, 2005 10:55 PM
