intermittent spark????
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intermittent spark????
Ok guys, I have an 1986 f150, 4x4, manual, and has a 300 inline 6. Since Thanksgiving i have been working on my fuel injected motor swap. I have a mid 90's inline 6 form a e150 van, with about 70 thousand miles on it. The engine wiring harnes and EEC is out of a 1988 f150(same motor and almost everything as my truck). OK sooooo i have everything hooked up, and i have air, compresion, fuel and spark to the motor. However the spark is stong but only sparks every once in a wile(about every 6 turns of the motor). I have put a new coil, plugs, plugs wires, and distributor cap on it. The distributor and ignition module is off of my 86(was working befor removed). I had to do some wiring to my icm, so its poislbe i screwed something up. If anyone has done this or even can read a wiring diagram, ill be more then happy to make one of what i did and try and post it. Just let me know
Thanks, alll of your input is extremely helpful
wes
Thanks, alll of your input is extremely helpful
wes
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From: Virginia
Do you know how to pull the codes from the computer? I would do that first. It will go out and look to see if there are any problems with the sensors and such, and report back any problems. It may help narrow down the problem.
Go ahead and post a diagram too.
Go ahead and post a diagram too.
Last edited by Franklin2; Jan 18, 2006 at 03:57 PM.
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ok, these are the codes i pulled up....
67 netural drive sw ckt open or a/c on
87 primary fuel pump circuit problem
14 profile ignition pickup (pip) erratic
95 fuel pump ckt open- ECA to ground
and i ran it a second time and got
67
87
and 25 ECA memory falure.
Now i think i got the fuel related codes becasue i forgot to run my fuel pump off of my relays, but i dont know.
thanks wes
67 netural drive sw ckt open or a/c on
87 primary fuel pump circuit problem
14 profile ignition pickup (pip) erratic
95 fuel pump ckt open- ECA to ground
and i ran it a second time and got
67
87
and 25 ECA memory falure.
Now i think i got the fuel related codes becasue i forgot to run my fuel pump off of my relays, but i dont know.
thanks wes
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From: Virginia
I am assuming you used most of the fuel injection wiring harness from the other vehicle, and retro-fitted it to your older truck? The fuel pump wiring and relays should have come with the new harness correct? And you had to change fuel tanks to get the efi set-up too? Sounds like you need to hook up the neutral safety switch too.
Here's a half-decent wiring diagram.
http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/g...3d800a3a47.gif
Here's a half-decent wiring diagram.
http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/g...3d800a3a47.gif
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yeah, your exaclty rite. However have my neutral safty switch hooked up. It gose to the starter relay, igntion module, and the eec. The motor turns and has spark form the coil. But it dose not always reach the sparkplugs. One code that came up was the (pip). I think it might have to do with my igntion module
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Ok, heres the up date. I rewired my fuel pump so it is ran through the relays. Now the fuel realted codes are gone. How ever my eec relay is not geting a ground and that is stoping both relays form working. THe wiring diagram shows that the black eec grd wire just gose straight to grd, but it actualy slpices in with 4 or 5 different blk wires.
I then ran the scanner again, after running a tempararry grd to the relay and got.
21 coolant temp sensor(ect) out of range
24 air temp (act/vat) out of rang
Come on guys! any ideas on whats wrong here????????
thanks wes
I then ran the scanner again, after running a tempararry grd to the relay and got.
21 coolant temp sensor(ect) out of range
24 air temp (act/vat) out of rang
Come on guys! any ideas on whats wrong here????????
thanks wes
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From: Virginia
You will receive a code 21 during the KOEO test if the engine temp is less than 50 or greater than 250.
You will receive a code 21 during the KOER test if the engine temp is less than 180 or greater than 250.
You will receive a code 24 during the KOEO and KOER test if the temp of the air in the intake is less than 50 or more than 250 degrees.
So if it was cold out when you were doing the test, you may be able to ignore these codes.
Sounds like you may have fixed everything else. It still won't run? Won't even try?
You will receive a code 21 during the KOER test if the engine temp is less than 180 or greater than 250.
You will receive a code 24 during the KOEO and KOER test if the temp of the air in the intake is less than 50 or more than 250 degrees.
So if it was cold out when you were doing the test, you may be able to ignore these codes.
Sounds like you may have fixed everything else. It still won't run? Won't even try?
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beside codes 67, 21 ,24 , i cant find anything else that is wrong. my coil is geting 12 volts, my igntion module is get 12 volts at pin 2 and 3 when the key is on and 2,3,4 when the key is at start. i get good spark to the plugs too( when it sparks). I tried cranking it and it will turn about 2 time befor it wants to run( plugs sound like they fire for one turn).........then it will crank anothor couple of times befor it sounds like it want to run again. I even tried pulling the spout plug and its the same. also i am geting a puff or smoke out of the intake every once in a wile, if that helps.
Thank you so much ,
wes
Thank you so much ,
wes
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From: St Louis
Focus on the PIP signal.
If you aren't getting it properly, the engine will never get spark when it's supposed to.
I don't know any specifics about this engine, however, the following general information is suggested.
If the engine uses a crank sensor, check/replace it.
If the PIP pickup is from a Hall effect switch or coil in the distributor, look there. If it's a Hall effect switch pickup, make certain it's mounted with stainless screws. The Hall device is a magnetically operated switch, so anything with a magnetic field like a magnetized screw can mess it up.
If it's a distributor with a TFI module, have the TFI module tested. Those things were notorious for failures that killed spark.
I've had all those things go bad on 80's era Fords. Some were temperature sensitve, some weren't.
Steve
If you aren't getting it properly, the engine will never get spark when it's supposed to.
I don't know any specifics about this engine, however, the following general information is suggested.
If the engine uses a crank sensor, check/replace it.
If the PIP pickup is from a Hall effect switch or coil in the distributor, look there. If it's a Hall effect switch pickup, make certain it's mounted with stainless screws. The Hall device is a magnetically operated switch, so anything with a magnetic field like a magnetized screw can mess it up.
If it's a distributor with a TFI module, have the TFI module tested. Those things were notorious for failures that killed spark.
I've had all those things go bad on 80's era Fords. Some were temperature sensitve, some weren't.
Steve
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