Ford 9 inch fluid change
Moderator & parts slinger
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 50,189
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From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
Ha capt obvious, 72F1004x4 started it, if you read my post you would of seen that. I was just giving a newb some advise. In your 3,461 posts I am sure you NEVER did that.
Are up getting my sarcasm? I am just poking back at you besides you feed the dead my posting on here to, hahaha.
Are up getting my sarcasm? I am just poking back at you besides you feed the dead my posting on here to, hahaha.
Certified Thread Hijacker
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 14,441
Likes: 60
Ha capt obvious, 72F1004x4 started it, if you read my post you would of seen that. I was just giving a newb some advise. In your 3,461 posts I am sure you NEVER did that.
Are up getting my sarcasm? I am just poking back at you besides you feed the dead my posting on here to, hahaha.
Are up getting my sarcasm? I am just poking back at you besides you feed the dead my posting on here to, hahaha.
It's called Necro-Posting and I am fully aware who started it.Josh
New User
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 4
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From: Smithville, MO
At the shop where I work all of the mechanics there including myself just take off the cover and let it all out into a pan then spray it all down with some brake clean let it air dry hit it with some wd/40 clean the gasket surfaces replace the gasket itself and fill. Diff service at my shops runs 49.99.
Certified Thread Hijacker
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 14,441
Likes: 60
At the shop where I work all of the mechanics there including myself just take off the cover and let it all out into a pan then spray it all down with some brake clean let it air dry hit it with some wd/40 clean the gasket surfaces replace the gasket itself and fill. Diff service at my shops runs 49.99.
Easiest way to do it is to drop the driveshaft and remove the pinion support. Suck out the oil and so on...
Josh
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Joined: Oct 2010
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From: AL
) and using them to install the studs. No problems.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2018
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From: North Pole, Alaska
Seeing these were old posts on this topic as someone brought it back to life for a bit - Unless I missed a post somewhere in between, I am surprised no one had posted this trick to remove oil from a Ford 9 inch without having to disassemble anything or use a hand suction pump....
In which I have two hand suction pumps that I use for all my Dana 60's : one for used oil removal only, and one to dispense fresh oil only.
As far as the Ford 9 inch diffs are concerned, I was taught this trick by an old timer dear friend of mine that was an ace mechanic working for Firestone during the 1970's :
1 - Lift the rear wheels off the ground and place a jack stand on each side of the rear axle to keep the wheels elevated
2 - Remove the fill plug from the pumpkin/housing
3 - Place a drain pan of sort underneath the pumpkin/housing side where the fill plug is located directly above
4 - Start engine while engaging brake pedal, engage the transmission in REVERSE, release brake pedal leaving engine idling while rear wheels are moving in reverse - as most all of the oil will spit out of the fill plug hole as the ring gear will pick up all but three ounces or so of oil capacity.....I was surprised how well this trick really worked in just 6 minutes time without having to unbolt anything other than removing the fill plug and jacking up the rear wheels.
Sure it doesn't get every bit of oil out, however when I refill all my 9 inch diffs with my fresh hand pump, I log how many ounces of oil I add or transfuse, and it was always within 3 to 4 ounces of capacity amount with fresh oil after draining all the 9 inch diffs on my 73 F100, my 70 Thunderbird, and both my Lincolns.
So much easier for me this way without having to unbolt 17 nuts and wrestling with a heavy monster unit with little room underneath and no car lift while making a bigger mess having to clean all the dirt off the housing before removing the unit and all that - not to mention trying to hand pump out thick oil with a small diameter hose that would only fit and clear between the ring gear and housing inside to get the hose to the bottom which that will take some effort as well to pump out by hand.
I can live with sacrificing 3 ounces of used oil mixed with a fresh full oil capacity that is way easier and effortless.
In which I have two hand suction pumps that I use for all my Dana 60's : one for used oil removal only, and one to dispense fresh oil only.
As far as the Ford 9 inch diffs are concerned, I was taught this trick by an old timer dear friend of mine that was an ace mechanic working for Firestone during the 1970's :
1 - Lift the rear wheels off the ground and place a jack stand on each side of the rear axle to keep the wheels elevated
2 - Remove the fill plug from the pumpkin/housing
3 - Place a drain pan of sort underneath the pumpkin/housing side where the fill plug is located directly above
4 - Start engine while engaging brake pedal, engage the transmission in REVERSE, release brake pedal leaving engine idling while rear wheels are moving in reverse - as most all of the oil will spit out of the fill plug hole as the ring gear will pick up all but three ounces or so of oil capacity.....I was surprised how well this trick really worked in just 6 minutes time without having to unbolt anything other than removing the fill plug and jacking up the rear wheels.
Sure it doesn't get every bit of oil out, however when I refill all my 9 inch diffs with my fresh hand pump, I log how many ounces of oil I add or transfuse, and it was always within 3 to 4 ounces of capacity amount with fresh oil after draining all the 9 inch diffs on my 73 F100, my 70 Thunderbird, and both my Lincolns.
So much easier for me this way without having to unbolt 17 nuts and wrestling with a heavy monster unit with little room underneath and no car lift while making a bigger mess having to clean all the dirt off the housing before removing the unit and all that - not to mention trying to hand pump out thick oil with a small diameter hose that would only fit and clear between the ring gear and housing inside to get the hose to the bottom which that will take some effort as well to pump out by hand.
I can live with sacrificing 3 ounces of used oil mixed with a fresh full oil capacity that is way easier and effortless.
Tuned
Joined: Jan 2022
Posts: 416
Likes: 44
From: Edmonton
I'm going to reanimate this thread to say the method proposed of putting it in reverse and letting the wheels spin for a few minutes worked like a hot damn for me today. I couldn't get the suction gun into the fill hole in a way that would let me drain the oil and this coughed up a ton of fluid. Mine is a 1982 F150 but the method worked flawlessly.
Hotshot
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 10,808
Likes: 2,604
From: The Shenandoah Valley
Seeing these were old posts on this topic as someone brought it back to life for a bit - Unless I missed a post somewhere in between, I am surprised no one had posted this trick to remove oil from a Ford 9 inch without having to disassemble anything or use a hand suction pump....
In which I have two hand suction pumps that I use for all my Dana 60's : one for used oil removal only, and one to dispense fresh oil only.
As far as the Ford 9 inch diffs are concerned, I was taught this trick by an old timer dear friend of mine that was an ace mechanic working for Firestone during the 1970's :
1 - Lift the rear wheels off the ground and place a jack stand on each side of the rear axle to keep the wheels elevated
2 - Remove the fill plug from the pumpkin/housing
3 - Place a drain pan of sort underneath the pumpkin/housing side where the fill plug is located directly above
4 - Start engine while engaging brake pedal, engage the transmission in REVERSE, release brake pedal leaving engine idling while rear wheels are moving in reverse - as most all of the oil will spit out of the fill plug hole as the ring gear will pick up all but three ounces or so of oil capacity.....I was surprised how well this trick really worked in just 6 minutes time without having to unbolt anything other than removing the fill plug and jacking up the rear wheels.
Sure it doesn't get every bit of oil out, however when I refill all my 9 inch diffs with my fresh hand pump, I log how many ounces of oil I add or transfuse, and it was always within 3 to 4 ounces of capacity amount with fresh oil after draining all the 9 inch diffs on my 73 F100, my 70 Thunderbird, and both my Lincolns.
So much easier for me this way without having to unbolt 17 nuts and wrestling with a heavy monster unit with little room underneath and no car lift while making a bigger mess having to clean all the dirt off the housing before removing the unit and all that - not to mention trying to hand pump out thick oil with a small diameter hose that would only fit and clear between the ring gear and housing inside to get the hose to the bottom which that will take some effort as well to pump out by hand.
I can live with sacrificing 3 ounces of used oil mixed with a fresh full oil capacity that is way easier and effortless.
In which I have two hand suction pumps that I use for all my Dana 60's : one for used oil removal only, and one to dispense fresh oil only.
As far as the Ford 9 inch diffs are concerned, I was taught this trick by an old timer dear friend of mine that was an ace mechanic working for Firestone during the 1970's :
1 - Lift the rear wheels off the ground and place a jack stand on each side of the rear axle to keep the wheels elevated
2 - Remove the fill plug from the pumpkin/housing
3 - Place a drain pan of sort underneath the pumpkin/housing side where the fill plug is located directly above
4 - Start engine while engaging brake pedal, engage the transmission in REVERSE, release brake pedal leaving engine idling while rear wheels are moving in reverse - as most all of the oil will spit out of the fill plug hole as the ring gear will pick up all but three ounces or so of oil capacity.....I was surprised how well this trick really worked in just 6 minutes time without having to unbolt anything other than removing the fill plug and jacking up the rear wheels.
Sure it doesn't get every bit of oil out, however when I refill all my 9 inch diffs with my fresh hand pump, I log how many ounces of oil I add or transfuse, and it was always within 3 to 4 ounces of capacity amount with fresh oil after draining all the 9 inch diffs on my 73 F100, my 70 Thunderbird, and both my Lincolns.
So much easier for me this way without having to unbolt 17 nuts and wrestling with a heavy monster unit with little room underneath and no car lift while making a bigger mess having to clean all the dirt off the housing before removing the unit and all that - not to mention trying to hand pump out thick oil with a small diameter hose that would only fit and clear between the ring gear and housing inside to get the hose to the bottom which that will take some effort as well to pump out by hand.
I can live with sacrificing 3 ounces of used oil mixed with a fresh full oil capacity that is way easier and effortless.
I'm going to reanimate this thread to say the method proposed of putting it in reverse and letting the wheels spin for a few minutes worked like a hot damn for me today. I couldn't get the suction gun into the fill hole in a way that would let me drain the oil and this coughed up a ton of fluid. Mine is a 1982 F150 but the method worked flawlessly.
I "sortof" need to replace a pinion seal anyway.
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bikerwolfie
1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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May 24, 2002 04:38 PM
