Wow did anyone see the date on this thread?

 

LOL :)
Not 'til you mentioned it. :)

Alvin in AZ

 

I was thinking of doing the same thing for my 9 in (no pun) since it has been together for 32 yrs, it wouldn't hurt to freshen it up. I was thinking if I pull those axels, I would need to replace the seals, and possibly the bearings. Are those bearings pressed onto the axel shfts?

I was looking at one of those pumps, but I thought the hose looked thick, and would not get in to get all of the old fluid. also I like the idea of a drain plug, if anyone has a pictures to share. I wondered why Ford didn't put a drain on it? What type fluid, 80W 90W?

 

What about the post in the "Tricks 'n Tips" stickie that says instead of removing the third member to change diff lube, remove the bottom stud and replace it with a bolt? Then whenever fluid gets changed, just remove the bolt and the bolt hole will double as a drain hole.

I don't have a whole lot of experience with 9-inchers, so I don't know what that's worth.

 

they sure are pressed on, they where a real pain, pressing the old ones off, then pressing the new ones one, luckily a local shop that my Father works at on Saturdays, allowed us to user there manual hand press, it was a real pain, i got the best bearings i could! since i don't want to do it for awhile! also the seal is a must! new bearings are worth it! and its best to do them while the axles are out, and taking the pumpkin out is the best bet, you can inspect it and clean it really good, and get all the fluid out, and you can check the back lash while your at it, its best to tighten that, if you let it wear it will only get worse (back lash is out when you go from reverse forward, the gears clunk, the distance is out and they are clunking, this will wear out the gears in no time) its a simple fix just look it up on Google, or check out my easy how to video on it, (my version is a simple one) YouTube - How to tighten backlash on 9" Ford

i like the 9 inch, no rear diff cover, or drain, diff covers often get damaged easy, from the looks of it the 9 inch housing is really tough, and i like the idea of no drain, less to get caught on a rock and snap off and leave you strained! but my front Dana 44 has a diff cover of course, which makes a lube job a snap up front, best advice is to pull the axles out half way on each side, you don't have to take them out all the way, unless your are doing bearings and seals, then you can simply take the pumpkin out and clean it with a soft brush and get all the muck out of there, and i saw a comment about replacing a lower stud with a bolt? how does that work? i would like to see pictures! and any one do that mod?

hope this helps

-Brent

 

your right this thread is older than dirt! its a full fledged ZOMBIE THREAD! ITS BACK FROM THE DEAD AND ALIVE AND WALING AGAIN! MUHA HA MUHA HA HA HA!!! this is the night of the living dead threads! lol lol

"ITS ALIVE! ITS ALIVE!"

really this is old lol lol 2001! that's 8 years ago!

and thanks for noticing, otherwise we all might go on not noticing! i am surprised no one could smell the stink of how old this thread is! lol

-Brent

 

One other option is to take one of the studs out of the bottom of the third member and replace it with a bolt. The studs go all the way into the housing so after pulling the stud, the oil drains out. I haven't tried this but i read about this trick in some other forum.

 

Thanks Bent, I appriciate the inpute.

 

Don't bother changing rear axle fluid on the 9" unless you've been under water, mine last over 200000 without a fluid change. I've got 350000 on my 59 station wagon, yeah, the gears stopped meshing in 1983. the bearings were still fine, but I replaced them. 9" axle bearings are more of a problem, DON'T BUY REAR AXLE BEARINGS MADE IN CHINA, THEY LAST LESS THAN A YEAR. Slovokian bearings seem to be okay. I change 9" rear axle bearings every 10 years even if they don't have problems, it is a huge problem to have a failure on the road and most shops don't have a press anymore. New bearings should come with a retainer ring, means you can cut the old one off with a die grinder. Cut almost all the way then split last bit with a chisel pointed down towards the wheel flange not in toward the axle. You don't press axle bearings back on, you heat the steel retainer ring with a torch (propane it okay) and just drop them on, seat quickly.

 

Never heard that one before! LOL :)
Sounds really dangged good to me! :)
That pressing the collar on is the single worst part for a guy doing it without
a press like I did. The rest of it was just plain ol' fun for a tinkering fool like
me tho. :)

Air cooled VW cranks have a steel gear that needs the same treatment.
I would put the crank in the freezer and a couple hours later heat the gear in
the kitchen with two propane torches until the oil on it smokes and then backs
off as it runs out of oil then grab out the crank and line stuff up and drop it on.
It all had to be done like right now. ;) ...so it was a kitchen operation.

A sheet of plywood on the floor was helpful if any hammering needed to be
done at the last second.

Alvin in AZ

 

i have changed rear end fluid in quit a few trucks over the years and i have always just taken the cover off bought the new gasket and cleaned it out the best i could you dont need to get everything out just the most ya can....plus this way you get a chance to inspect things a bit and you know you have a nice new seal on the cover so as to not have a leak....never had a problom before.

 

but i have never had anything with a ford 9 inch so i really wouldnt know

 

Cool posts. :)
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/F150-9inch.jpg
Those of us who have, could tell you haven't, right away. ;)

First, there ain't no cover. LOL :)
(or the cover is welded on, take your pick;)
That's where the fun begins. :)
To open it up and reach in it with your hand, involves pulling the axles and
removing the drive shaft first.

These two pictures go together since they are opposite sides of the same
thing...
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/Ford9inch.jpg
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/yoketool.jpg

Racers like 'em for several reasons but one is the differential can be all set
up and ready to go with whatever gear they want and it can be swapped
out in the pits to the different gear ratio. They make carrying boxes for
them and everything. Racers are just a little bit crazy huh? :)

Alvin in AZ

 

Hey, happy new year! New to posting but have read many posts. Just picked up a 1972 f-100 short bed 4x4, has a 352 and is in decent shape but want to change the fluids in the dana front end, transfer case, transmission and 9" rearend What weight oil do you folks recommend. Parts store just comes up with Ford Hypoid gear oil with no weight ??? Thanks

 

Always ch the thread born on date/last reply, so you are not feeding the zombies. LOL
3-30-2009 this thread is way pass due date, still LMAO

Good info just way outdated thread, be ready to get flamed for bringing it back to life, don't sweat it, we all have done it.

Enjoy FTE......