Anyone have any ideas on how to drain the fluid since there is no drain plug? I'd like to change the gear oil before winter. Any ideas?

Thanks,

Jake

 

Time to head out to your nearest auto-parts outlet and buy a suction gun. Looks like a grease gun but just has a rubber hose on the front of it. I usually run mine so the oil is hot and any undesirable material is churned up in the gear lube, then suck it out through the fill hole. They do a really good job. It won't get every drop out clean, but it's better than not changing it at all. Beats yanking the axles and pulling the rear if you are only doing it as preventitive maintenance.

 

How are your finances? I prefer not to bring my truck to anyone to work on besides myself, but in the case of a job like the differential fluid I have it done by "Jiffy Lube." I know it's cheap and very easy to buy a pump and replace the fluid, but you're simply sucking the old stuff out and putting new stuff in. The quick oil change place charged me $30, but I didn't have to buy more equipment, fluid, or disposal cost. The aspect worth mentioning is that they thoroughly flushed the rearend for 15 minutes before filling it up and plugging it (I watched them - seemed to take forever, having some pimply guy with his hands all over my truck). Anyways, some jobs are easier left done to the quick change people. - just keep an eye on 'em

 

I have a 9 inch in my truck, the way I changed the gear oil was buy buying a little hand held bilge pump. Cost about 3 bucks or so. I found it worked great.

 

Or you can remove the passanger side wheel and axle; lift the vehicle about 4 feet in the air, and rotate it 90 degrees (passanger side down) until all the oil drains from the axle tube. I tried it once with the driver's side down but lost more gasoline than I did old 80W-90. If you don't have a vehicle rotator in your garage, two engine stands (one in front & one in back) will suffice.

 

Jake, I will take a different path than the others. There isn't a real need to change it that I know of, just keep the fluid to the bottom of the hole, and drive on.

Now if you just gotta do it, get 3 qts. of gear oil and a paper gasket and drop the pumkin out of the front. You can wipe the housing out and inspect it.

It'll take about an hour to do it. Put a pan under it to catch the fluid.

John

jowilker
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[link:www.ford-trucks.net/users/jowilker/NCFTE.html|NC Truck Owners] NC Ford Truck owners group

66F100s Rule
In the cool still quiet of night you can hear chevies rusting away.

 

I like Johns' idea. The guy that wants to jack up the truck and remove the wheel axle is nuts. Just remove the thing and wipe it out.
Ricker

77 F150 4x4
351M, granny 4
4.10's (I think)
33's
low, low, low mpg.

 

If you go with John's way, which would be the best, you can cleanout the bottom of the housing, drill and tap into the bottom of the housing just off center, now put a pipe plug in and the next time you want to change you have a drain plug(I prefer the recessed allen head style myself-nothing except a thread or three below the housing-square headed, like on the t-case or manual tranny, kind will work also but may be exposed a little more). Makes it much easier. This is a good "trick" if you see a lot of off-road/water crossings and don't want to pull the chunk everytime.

 

 

Guys that must be something else that got by me. What is Fords recommendation for rear gear oil change? I must be way behind by now.

Hey maybe I can load up my new manual CD that I bought here and see what it says. :-)

John

jowilker
[link:www.ford-trucks.net/users/jowilker|Club FTE since 01 01] My FTE Page

[link:www.ford-trucks.net/users/jowilker/NCFTE.html|NC Truck Owners] NC Ford Truck owners group

66F100s Rule
In the cool still quiet of night you can hear chevies rusting away.

 

I tried a suction gun on my 78 Bronco 9" diff, and couldn't get the hose to go in far enough to suction the oil out. It felt like the ring gear or bolt or something, was interfering with the hose? I even tried a smaller hose, still wouldn't go. I didn't think to turn a wheel. Would this have given me more clearance? Thanks. Don

 

john, i did this with my 71 that had a dana and it was a piece of cake since it was bolted together. but how would you take the 9" apart? it looks to me like the things welded together. theres just a seam that goes all the way around but no clear way to take the thing apart

 

Yeah but. :)
You have to remove both axles before pulling the differential. ;)

I "wiped mine out" when I replaced the bad pinion gear (pilot bearing surface
was Brinelled) and put a magnet from a microwave oven in the bottom of
the housing. It's like my T18 that way now. :)

If we could add "drain plug ideas" to this thread it would be really cool. :)
I'd like to see pictures of your setup, Chuck. :)

Man, that Jiffy Lube idea sounds pretty good tho. :)
Never been there and ain't going neither, but sounds pretty good anyway.

Alvin in AZ

 

And pulling the differential is a pain the first time with the copper washers etc
holding it in too. Be careful the housing is soft stuff (isn't springy) and can be
bent easily while prying. BTDT. :/

I took the housing out and washed it out with engine cleaner and water on a
warm day. ...used a toilet brush. LOL :)

Alvin in AZ

 

Be prepared to change the axle seals if you remove the shafts to drop the third member. It's about a 50/50 split if the seals will seal again after the shafts are pulled. Depends how careful you are and how old the seals and bearings are. I would pull the shafts drop the third member and then drill and tap the housing for a drain plug. Put new bearings and seals on the axles while they are out. Then next time you simply have to remove a plug and the oil change only takes like 15 min. This is what I did on mine.