Yeah, I did the actuators back in Feb. Then both locks stopped working a couple of months ago (both at the same time time).

 

found it, thanks kalsc. Replaced and still the same. Damn! I guess I'm pulling the actuators out again to test.

 

New to the forum. Did mine last night both sides in about an hour and a half. Thanks for all of the great description and photos. Boy they pop great now.

 

SO EVEN SOMEONE WITH TWO LEFT THUMBS AND ARTHRITES IN THE OTHER FINGERS SHOULD BE ABLE TO PULL THIS OFF...

SOMEONE LIKE ME...
both rear doors on mine quit working...

 

I can fix about anything but this was truely easy. Just be careful taking the end of the motor off and getting the brushes spread out to fit against the armature.

 

Is there a lock to let down the chain for my spare tire? I'm having trouble trying to use the tool it works with.

 

Ok, took the motor out of the assembly and it is toast! Did the fix and it worked for a while, but both stopped one day. Now the motors look like they got so hot it melted the little gear on the end (and everything is black and melted on the inside too). I guess I wasn't careful enough putting the motors back together. My only guess is that I bent the arm holding the brushes, which short circuited the motor. I'm going to try to find some at a wrecker and guessing all the superduty trucks and vans 99 and up are the same? Does anyone know if the motor itself is available from any suppliers?

 

Fixed passenger side this morning and only took about 1/2 an hour. I did the same thing as the original post (took EVERYTHING apart) but didn't notice the thermistor. Wrapping it in foil solved the problem.
Here are some other comments I'll add. I first noticed the passenger door not working, then slowly the drivers door was failing too. For some reason if one actuator fails it effects both doors (since my drivers lock is working fine now too).
When putting the actuator back together all I had to do was remelt the plastic tabs. I used a torx bit, applied some heat and remelted the tabs to the holes.
One more note, take care wrapping the thermistor with foil. You dont need much as you are only making an electrical short circuit, not wrapping an Xmass present!
Test the motor BEFORE you put it back in the actuator housing. Spin it by hand. You shouldn't hear any noise and the gear should spin freely. Apply 12vdc and make sure it works without letting the smoke out or getting hot. Reverse the polarity and make sure it spins the other way too. Then reassemble everything and you should be in business.

 

Glad to hear of something like this as my 99 F350 has three locks that work occasionally. Will try this this weekend. Thanks

 

How do you open the door panel on a 2000 excursion to get at the door lock actuator?
gtadim@can.rogers.com

 

It's on the like 3rd or 4th page but they said to pop off the switch control plate and remove the reflector and the whole thing lifts off...if it is a front door there is another screw or something opposite the mirror...but check early on in the thread after the pictures of the lock mechanism someone posted.

 

to get the actuator out do u have to get the latch out?

 

Check the tech thread it gives all the details.

 

I did the powered or lock fix. Everything works great.My only problem is, everything works backwards. When I put the motors back together. There is a little window, though it's actually not a window, I guess you're supposed to put it back together, as it came apart. But in order for me to make sure the brushes were seating properly. I spun the motor. 180°, so I could see. Is that why everything is working backwards? Everything works fine it is just that the unlock and lock on the door and on the hand piece are backwards. What did I do wrong?

 

It is working backwards because you put the motor in upside down which reversed the +/- connections. Open it up take out the motor and rotate the motor housing 180 degrees and reinstall it should work correctly.