What is needed to flush an auto transmission like my c6. When you drain a torque converter how do you fill it back up?

 

Un-bolt the transmission pan and drain.
Take the pan off and replace the Filter.
Remove inspection plate off the front of the transmission.
Turn the engine over(either bump the starter with the coil wire off,or turn the engine over by hand until the convertor drain plug is in the bottom position and remove the plug.

After complete draining,replace the plug on the convertor(torquing
it to spec.Replace the pan cover with new gasket,and fill the transmission back up through the dipstick tube under the hood.

In Calagry here we can get a Full Service which includes adjustments and complete drain and replenish tranny fluid for about $75.00 can.




Dennis



It's Almost Time Everyone.

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78 F-150 429CJ C6 ,Silver w/Explorer Pkge
641/2 Mustang,Pre-World's Fair Car #8092
64 Fairlane S/C waiting for a 390-4spd.
68-Mustang.Sunlit Gold 80,000 miles

 

The C6 pumps fluid through the torque converter, to the cooler, and back into the rear of the transmission. This is why you should check the level while the engine is running.

 

so the convertor fills it self up? I recently changed the fluid and filter but didnt drain the convertor. I put dexron mercon fluid in and it is burnt from slipping. My dipstick doesnt say what fluid to use. I am gonna put type f in. Could I flush it by dumping type f through with the pan and filter off and the convertor plug off? Would I be safe to drain everything and undo the cooler lines overnight and put the new fluid in or should I have it flushed? What do the tranny shops do to flush them, is new fluid pumped through till it come clean or what?

 

The way we do it is with a machine that uses the transmission cooling lines to pull the old fluid out and put new in at the same time. This alleviates the problems with the TC not priming back up. It costs 80 bucks.

 

The transmission's front pump fills up the converter. Dumping oil into the filler with the pan off will send your new oil directly into your drain bucket. Draining the pan and converter will get at least 95% of the oil out; probably more like 99.9%. If you want to drain your cooler and lines also, I would suggest using compressed air. Disconnect the line at the front of the C6 that goes to the radiator. Blow the air in this tube and most of the oil in the cooler will be forced down the line and into the back of the tranny where it will drain out the bottom where the pan was.

Tell us more about your slipping problem. All automatics; even ones for racing will slip when they shift. It is more of a cushioning effect to prevent breakage from shock. Type F might help a little, but if your tranny is slipping so bad that you actually feel a slip or it burns the oil, then you probably need serious work. Type F was manditory in the early C6's that had different material in the clutch packs. A rebuilt tranny would have had more modern friction material used and work fine with Dexron III/Mercon. Some people still prefer Type F which will often give a firmer shift.

 

the slippage is worse after driving for at least 45 minutes. IT is from 2nd to 3rd and only if accelerating at half down or more. The problem got worse immedietly after changing the fluid. I have no idea what was in it previously because I bought it 5 months ago and the guy who had it before me always had jiffy lube service it. Im sure it is the original tranny. the id number is D7 which is 77 that is when they started putting the 351m/400 c6s in and my truck has 195000 miles or more like I said im not the original owner so im not sure if thats actual mileage

 

 

I have the exact same symptoms in my '79 Bronco with the stock C6. I developed them after I rebuilt the engine and replaced the transmission fluid with Valvoline Dexron II or whatever it is. I'm not sure what to do about it either and was considering pulling the trans off and taking it into a shop for a rebuild. It's kind of scary prospect, though.