I'm wondering if my steep decline in milage is due to the winter fuel or the ebpv acting up? Ive gone from 17-12mpg with in the last month. Ive had te truck for a few years and its never dropped of that badly during winter. The reason I was leaning twords the ebpv is that the truck seems to be gutless all the time now. Like I'm hauling everywere I go? And from Ive read the ebpv can cause that.

Thanks guys for the help!!

 

I have seen people on this board and others complaining about the big drop in MPG on this winter grade fuel. I have seen a big drop myself.

 

I'd say unplug the EBPV for awhile and see if your MPG and performance improve. Unplugging it is not going to hurt anything. The engine will just take a bit longer to warm up.

 

Thanks guys for the responses! I expected some decrease with the fuel change, but I havent seen it this bad in times past?!

Stroker how do I go about disconnecting the ebpv?

 

Here's a picture with the EBPV connector identified. I beleive it's a tan colored connector.

http://community.webshots.com/photo/...7814cZOLspiYVv

 

Thanks! I know what that is now, I seen it earlyier when I was looking around!

Thanks again!

 

I was getting 18-19mpg before it went below zero and it went to 12. It warmed alittle and im at 14 or better. Had alot of idle time when colder.
I like the EBPV and so does my engine.

 

why does the EBPV cause such a loss in mileage?

 

also, why does the ebpv valve act up in the first place, and why so much in the winter?

 

AS far as I can tell the harder once the ebpv is restricting the exhaust flow, so you burn more fuel.

I'm not sure what causes it to act up though? Ive had the truck since it was new and this is the first time Ive had any issues with it!

 

yea, mine within the last month has done the same thing. its almost as if i cant watch the fuel gauge drop, its aweful. i also hate the loss of power from the ebpv. i am definately going to try disconnecting it and seeing what happens. i always thought that it was an exhaust leak between the manifold and turbo up-pipe. thanks for all the great advice on this subject guys.

 

Here's a quick explanation of the EBPV operation from Steve Baz site:

EPR (think EBPV) Exhaust backPressure Regulator, also EBP regulator Output; For quicker engine warm-up at cold temperatures. If the IAT(intake air temp sensor) is below 37°F (50°F some models) and the EOT(Engine oil temp sensor) is below 140°F (168° some models) the PCM (Powertrain Control Module, think computer) sends a duty cycle signal to a solenoid which controls oil flow from the turbo pedestal. This causes a servo to close a valve at the turbo exhaust outlet. The PCM monitors the EBP(exhaust backpressure sensor) input to determine if the EPR needs to be disabled to provide power for increased load (example pressing the acceleartor pedal), then reapplys the EPR as load demand decreases until EOT or IAT rises.

For more info on the EBPV you can do a search of this forum, just request "EBPV" and you'll get lots of info. Here's one thread from the '99-03 forum that has alot of detail in it as an example.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=430880

Basically, it gives more problems in the winter because thats when it's used. In the summer the IAT (intake air temp sensor) is above 37*F and the PCM does not "tell" the EBPV to close to help warm up the engine quicker. It's a butterfly valve in the exhaust after the turbo. I believe the typical failures are due to soot build-up around the butterfly valve or failure of the solenoid. I've also read of oil leaking from around the actuator rod. If it sticks closed or partially closed, it's like any exhaust restriction and will impact performance and mpg.

 

My Edge programer gives me the EBPV at 19-23# even at an idle. Presuming the Cat isn't clogged what should the pressure be at an idle and at 2000 RPM. if the valve is working right? I have only about 55,000 miles on the truck and get 13 MPG empty. I have a 3" DP, a Quik filter and installed the IAT sensor in the end of it. My oil temp runs at about 200*. I'm thinking maybe the EBPV isn't opening all the way. Does this sound possible? How hard should it be to move the rod by hand with the motor not running? .. Thanks...

 

Sorry to jump in here but I'd like to know this, even if you did unplug the EBPV, if it was stuck closed or partially closed, it wouldn't help, (to unplug it) correct? Also, if it is closed, is there a way to manally open it?

 

In the above mentioned thread is a good discussion of EBPV readings. The EBP sensor is reading exhaust pressure on the passenger side exhaust manifold, pre-turbo. Please don't confuse pre-turbo exhaust pressure with post turbo pressure or with boost. There is a tube running from the front of the passenger side exhaust manifold up to the top of the engine. The EBP sensor sits on top of this tube. My understanding is that the turbo input to output ratio is about 2:1, meaning for every 2 psi of input exhaust pressure on the turbo, you get 1 psi of pressure in the intake manifold or boost. A 19-23# EBP sensor reading, would mean you're getting 9-12 psi boost at idle, EBP valve opened. Highly unlikely. I'm not sure what the reading should be with the EBP valve closed at idle, but with it open, I would expect a very low reading at idle because I would expect a very low exhaust manifold pressure at idle. I'm not sure if it's indicating a problem or if programmers just miscalulate the information from the EBV sensor. Also in that thread it talks about blockage of the tube going up to the EBP sensor. That may be a possiblity for inaccurate readings. You should get a higher reading with the EBP valve closed than with it open, at idle. If you don't see a change, I would suspect the tube is blocked with soot and anything else that comes out of your cylinders. Or it may be the sensor, about $140 from Ford. At 2000 RPMs, I would expect to see about twice whatever your boost number is if you have a boost sensor.

As far as moving it by hand (engine off), I'm not sure. I've never tried. The default position is "open". The PCM does a "proof" or test of the EBP vavle at every start-up when the key is turned to the "on" position. Possibly you could have someone turn the key to the "on" position, but not start the truck and watch the EBP valve operation. I believe there is a physical stop that the mechcanism rests against when it's open.