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I'm wanting to put a fresh motor in my daily driver, but I'm wanting to make it run better for pump gas. I'm thinking about mixing/matching parts to bring up the compression and make more power, but keep the stock 2bbl for gas mileage. I'm getting 16 right now, but I think if I get the compression up around 9 or 9.5:1, and port the heads, it'll be more efficient. A friend of mine has a 302 in an 85 F150 that I can buy for $20 if I help take it out. I know it runs. The questions are:
I've got both 298 heads and 351W heads. I noticed that the 289 heads have different cooling passages. Will they work with the 85 block? What would I need to put the 351W heads on, and what kind of compression would I get? I think they're '75.
I had a 85 GT with a roller cam and it was one of the best running engines I've ever had, so I'm thinking about using the roller cam. I've heard guys say that you have to use a smaller base cam, and some that say the whole works will go right in, but with goofy push rods. Anyone used the stock setup in the non-roller block with the funny push rods?
Gear drives are fairly inexpensive, and don't stretch. Could I use the gear drive with the roller cam?
to use a roller cam on the motor will cost some money. you have to get special stuff for it to work properly unless you found a mustang/car 5.0 from 86 - newer.
If you want to keep your mpg were it is leave the motor stock. if you pump the cr and increase the flow you will use more gas period. the stock 2brrl also is hindering a 4bbrl will get better mpg if you stay out of the secondaries. you can increase the vacum on them so they wont open as easily
That doesn't make any sense. Why would an engine use more gas by bringing up the compression ratio? All of today's naturally aspirated fuel injected cars have a cr of 9:1 or higher. I can't use a 4bbl either, cause it won't fit under the hood.
I guarantee you that todays engines do NOT have ratios much above 8.5 - 1 due to the terrible quality gas avialble today. Go past 9-1 and you increase the chance of pre-detonation and short engine life.
Aslo, I have used the roller cams in regular blocks with great success...however, you have to watch if it's a HO or Non-HO motor and if its speed density or MAF EFI System. The problem has to do with the different firing order of the two motors and the fact that the early EFI's were mostly all non-HO so the firing injectors onl;y open one way which is in contrast to the HO motors.
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a roller cam will not fit into a non roller block with out other hardware to allow it to fit. there are kits on summit to allow for this but it gets spendy.
The newer models get better performance because they are built better! If you want good performance with a better fuel consumption get you a 5.0 ho or better and stay with the fuel injection or carburate it. These Ho motors are roller cam and run very smoothly! Kemicalburns is right a rollercam kit for an older block could cost you about $500.00 . That is just a cam and lifters. Worth every penny if you can afford it! The alternative is find one already set up!
What else is there, besides a roller cam and a set of "bar-link" roller lifters? Several companies sell the "linked" lifters that don't need the spider retainer.
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