Omg!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Joined: Jun 2003
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From: SC
Originally Posted by GaCracker
I hate to sound <read> like the total noob but, with this chip, can I remove it easily before taking the truck in for service? I hate the thought of wasting that $ I spent on an extended bumper to bumper warranty.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,873
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From: Phx, AZ
They all leave a traceable code or routing #. So do tuners so all of you cheaters quit fooling yourselves. If the Ford Corp. really wants to void your warranty they will, chip, tuner or otherwise.
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From: New Hampshire
Originally Posted by Fire Rooster
They all leave a traceable code or routing #. So do tuners so all of you cheaters quit fooling yourselves. If the Ford Corp. really wants to void your warranty they will, chip, tuner or otherwise.
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Joined: Jun 2003
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From: SC
Originally Posted by nodoubt
.....any chip will.....thats the ONLY place a programmer will out shine a chip...........
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Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Yuba City, CA.
Originally Posted by Fordafied
Hate to burst your bubble, but a programmer also leaves a code that you can not get rid of even if you unhook the batteries.
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Joined: Jun 2003
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From: SC
Originally Posted by WA.Ranger
Doesn't it also leave a way bigger spray pattern on top of the pistons?
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Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Mills River N.C.
Originally Posted by Fire Rooster
Now here is the bad news, pretty unrelated but crappy non the less. I get home from the fire station today to find out the water main to my house has ruptured. It is gonna cost me 7500.00 bones to fix. Spent all day today digging up my drive way. Sure felt good to get in my truck and drive to the local eatery though.
That sucks.
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Joined: Aug 2004
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From: SHELTON, WA
Originally Posted by Fat Diesel
Au Contraire Monfrere. My HPOP PSI drops to 1900 on my highest chip setting (100 HP DP Tuner) and for sure needs more pressure to get anywhere near the performance it can offer. I have early 99 AB injectors that are actually "smaller" than the later 99.5+. There are several companies offering modified single and some dual pumps that can maintain 3000+. The latest discussions have indicated that "big oil" gives as much power increase as Stage I injectors.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Morgan Hill, CA
I will have less problems for sure. I most certainly have the 15 degree swash plate and a newer 17* would help. But, there is a difference between "no problems" and "optimal" for sure. I'd just prefer to buy a pump that I can grow into as long as it has a super long lifespan. I plan on driving the truck a long time and eventually build a motor with aftermarket rods, head studs, big turbo, big injectors, etc.
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Joined: Jun 2003
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From: SC
Originally Posted by Fat Diesel
I will have less problems for sure. I most certainly have the 15 degree swash plate and a newer 17* would help. But, there is a difference between "no problems" and "optimal" for sure. I'd just prefer to buy a pump that I can grow into as long as it has a super long lifespan. I plan on driving the truck a long time and eventually build a motor with aftermarket rods, head studs, big turbo, big injectors, etc.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Morgan Hill, CA
Fordafied- I'm sure Mini Me's "can" be run with stock HPOP's. I don't doubt that for a minute as long as you're getting 2700psi+ at WOT. I just believe the growing number of guys who say that "BIG OIL" is like getting injectors. We're talking close to 400 rear wheel horsies out of stock AD injectors. If the stock HPOP is so effective why are three companies going into commercial production of the $2000 big oil pumps? Answer: because they work. I just don't want to pony up and pay 400+ for something that I will want to later swap out. Just my preference.
KWIK- I've read that the 15* pumps have a flat stamped steel cover on the back, while the 17* has a bulge. Others stated that is not definitive. I don't have PN's, sorry. If you can monitor HPOP and IPR DUTY then just make sure the duty on the IPR stays below say 40 and the HPOP is above 2500. From what I've read, 3000+ is optimal, 2700 is good, 2500 is poor, and everything below is totally undesirable from a performance standpoint.
KWIK- I've read that the 15* pumps have a flat stamped steel cover on the back, while the 17* has a bulge. Others stated that is not definitive. I don't have PN's, sorry. If you can monitor HPOP and IPR DUTY then just make sure the duty on the IPR stays below say 40 and the HPOP is above 2500. From what I've read, 3000+ is optimal, 2700 is good, 2500 is poor, and everything below is totally undesirable from a performance standpoint.