Walker Downpipe
New User
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 4
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From: Edgewood, Wa
Walker down pipe 45166 on 1977 f250 4x4 highboy
Walker down pipe 45166 on 1977 f250 4x4 highboy. I made it fit. It took some work straightened out the main bend and flatened a small area that would have hit the frame. I think that this downpipe can be made to fit any year ford truck with a 240-300 six and efi manifolds. My truck runs way better 2.5 inch pipe and a two chamber flowmaster.
FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 42,551
Likes: 3,117
From: Fraziers Bottom, WV
FYI to open up my downpipe I used a drum grinding stone (about 1 inch across and 1.25 long) and put it in a drill bit extension and and electric drill. It too about 10 minutes to clean it up!
Freshman User
Joined: Jun 2005
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I had the exact same issue too. I made quick word of it with the trusty ol stick welder. Just cranked it up to 200 and had it blown out in no time. I also noticed that the flanges were over a quarter inch off from matching up. However,, when I installed the header bolds, I just drew them down, and it basically formed itself to a tight seal. Avoided putting all the dents in it.
An unrelated issue with the downpipe is that I had a heck of a time trying to get it installed with the engine already set in the truck. It ended up that I had to cut 2" off the end of it just to get it past the crossmember.
An unrelated issue with the downpipe is that I had a heck of a time trying to get it installed with the engine already set in the truck. It ended up that I had to cut 2" off the end of it just to get it past the crossmember.
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 620
Likes: 1
From: Toronto, ON
Originally Posted by jgetti
I had the exact same issue too. I made quick word of it with the trusty ol stick welder. Just cranked it up to 200 and had it blown out in no time. I also noticed that the flanges were over a quarter inch off from matching up. However,, when I installed the header bolds, I just drew them down, and it basically formed itself to a tight seal. Avoided putting all the dents in it.
An unrelated issue with the downpipe is that I had a heck of a time trying to get it installed with the engine already set in the truck. It ended up that I had to cut 2" off the end of it just to get it past the crossmember.
An unrelated issue with the downpipe is that I had a heck of a time trying to get it installed with the engine already set in the truck. It ended up that I had to cut 2" off the end of it just to get it past the crossmember.
Freshman User
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 30
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Originally Posted by Roushians
Uh oh, I don't want to hear this stuff! I really hope mine bolts up nicely to the flanges. (I haven't done anything yet as I've been busy with a 6" lift install, but have vacation time coming up soon).
Mountain Pass
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 162
Likes: 0
From: Roswell, GA
I just picked up my Walker 45166 from the parts store today. There is almost no restriction in mine - in fact there is so little i probably wont touch it. Its a clean cut, round enough with very little "flash" or excess metal. Maybe they've kicked it up a notch or maybe i just got lucky.
By the way - around here, it doesnt work to say "can you search for part # 45166?" It didnt show up in the 3 parts stores i went to. I finally found an Advance where the parts dork didn't **** me off and he actually let me try to help him find it on the computer. Its under "catalytic converters" --> "replacement pipe for universal cat." Sure enough, the part number right next to it was 45166, and when i picked it up today it had two stickers with the # on it.
Props to Advance - got it in a day before they said they would and it was $65 out the door.
By the way - around here, it doesnt work to say "can you search for part # 45166?" It didnt show up in the 3 parts stores i went to. I finally found an Advance where the parts dork didn't **** me off and he actually let me try to help him find it on the computer. Its under "catalytic converters" --> "replacement pipe for universal cat." Sure enough, the part number right next to it was 45166, and when i picked it up today it had two stickers with the # on it.
Props to Advance - got it in a day before they said they would and it was $65 out the door.
FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 42,551
Likes: 3,117
From: Fraziers Bottom, WV
If the parts guy will do a search in the system for "non-store" nimbers and enter 45166 it will list about 5 items and one will be the downpipe.
I did not have any problem getting the pipe in place! I used a new set of manifold studs from ARP (for a 302 I think - will look) and was able to hing the intake on them. Then slide the EFIs up and hold things in place with a couple of nuts. Then put the down pipe in place and put the nuts on the down studs to hold them up. After that I started to tighten things and make sure all in lined up!
I did not have any problem getting the pipe in place! I used a new set of manifold studs from ARP (for a 302 I think - will look) and was able to hing the intake on them. Then slide the EFIs up and hold things in place with a couple of nuts. Then put the down pipe in place and put the nuts on the down studs to hold them up. After that I started to tighten things and make sure all in lined up!
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 28,609
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From: Lake Tahoe, Nevada
Originally Posted by 5_labsownus
If the parts guy will do a search in the system for "non-store" nimbers and enter 45166 it will list about 5 items and one will be the downpipe.
I did not have any problem getting the pipe in place! I used a new set of manifold studs from ARP (for a 302 I think - will look) and was able to hing the intake on them. Then slide the EFIs up and hold things in place with a couple of nuts. Then put the down pipe in place and put the nuts on the down studs to hold them up. After that I started to tighten things and make sure all in lined up!
I did not have any problem getting the pipe in place! I used a new set of manifold studs from ARP (for a 302 I think - will look) and was able to hing the intake on them. Then slide the EFIs up and hold things in place with a couple of nuts. Then put the down pipe in place and put the nuts on the down studs to hold them up. After that I started to tighten things and make sure all in lined up!
FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 42,551
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From: Fraziers Bottom, WV
One more thing is to use a torque wrench and tighten the bolts/nuts and then start and warm the engine to operating temperature. After 15 minutes shut the engine off and re-torque the bolts/nuts! I made the mistake of not re-checking the first time and had to install a new gasket. I re-checked the torque and have not had a problem!
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